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Posted: 1/5/2011 6:13:31 PM EDT
| from Bench-Source. I received this annealer today and I am extremely impressed with the quality of the construction as well as the packaging. It was better packaged than anything I have received from other sellers and manufacturers. Easy to set up and within a hour was annealing some cases. For me this is for annealing consistency, not volume. |
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Quoted: What did it set you back? They have no pricing on their website. Not the Vertex brand, but FYI: http://www.annealingmachines.com/ http://www.kenlightmfg.com/products.html |
| I always thought annealing brass involved keeping the lower portion in a cooling medium, and cooling it at a very controlled rate. Otherwise, the heat is just spreading throughout the entire case, and without controlling the cool down, you can actually make the brass harder. |
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Quoted:
I always thought annealing brass involved keeping the lower portion in a cooling medium, and cooling it at a very controlled rate. Otherwise, the heat is just spreading throughout the entire case, and without controlling the cool down, you can actually make the brass harder. Actually, not true. You do not need to do other than air cool if you control the heating at the neck and shoulder. Using Tempilac 450 painted on the side of the case you can prove the case does not get warmer than that half way up the brass from the base. For 223 using only one torch it takes less than 2 seconds to reach proper temperature. Below 400 degrees no change to the brass occurs. From an article on 6mmbr.com: Brass which has been "work hardened" (sometimes referred to as "cold worked") is unaffected by temperatures (Fahrenheit) up to 482 degrees (F) regardless of the time it is left at this temperature. |
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You better believe my 6.8 brass was work hardened, you couldn't mash the necks with a pair of pliers until after they where annealed but I have been reloading the same brass I started with in 6.8 over two years ago and no telling how many reloads are on it(10-15+) and no sign of Case Head Separation or loose primer pockets(SSA makes good brass).
It's easy for people to drop $400+ on a power trimmer but unheard of for an annealer when the reason for both are speed and consistency. I have a Dillon trimmer and trim dies for 6.8 and .223 on the way also(will get more as needed) and have a nice ultrasonic cleaner but am thinking about going the Tumblers tumbler and SS media route but have not made up my mind as the solution I found for my US cleaner works wonders and is nontoxic but quite $ as well($50 a gal) but will last a Longgg time. |
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Quoted:
You better believe my 6.8 brass was work hardened, you couldn't mash the necks with a pair of pliers until after they where annealed but I have been reloading the same brass I started with in 6.8 over two years ago and no telling how many reloads are on it(10-15+) and no sign of Case Head Separation or loose primer pockets(SSA makes good brass). It's easy for people to drop $400+ on a power trimmer but unheard of for an annealer when the reason for both are speed and consistency. I have a Dillon trimmer and trim dies for 6.8 and .223 on the way also(will get more as needed) and have a nice ultrasonic cleaner but am thinking about going the Tumblers tumbler and SS media route but have not made up my mind as the solution I found for my US cleaner works wonders and is nontoxic but quite $ as well($50 a gal) but will last a Longgg time. Sir, the bulk of my reloading in years past has been for cartridges used in service rifle competition so I've always enjoyed a plentiful source of reasonable quality once fired brass. Now that I've struck out on a couse with match rifle cartridges I've discovered it makes sense to try for longer case life and more consistant neck tension. I too have done my share of the research and concluded this machine is the way I want to go. I've already contacted them and will have a new machine on the way when I return from my Florida vacation in a few weeks. I'll keep you posted on how it works out, I hope you'll do the same. JMHO, 7zero1. |
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