Armory Sponsor
Posted: 11/16/2010 6:07:52 PM EDT
|
I recently picked up a P229 Sport in 357 SIG and really love shooting that round, but hate spending that much to buy factory ammo. Its my only 357 at the moment, but would like to pick up a few others down the road, so I was thinking about getting some dies for it.
The little research I have done so far, has me a little nervous about reloading for it, so I thought I would get opinions from those of you who reload for it. Is it that difficult to reload for it? What are some things I need to be aware of? Any recommendations for dies? Thanks. |
|
I live to reload. Look forward to sitting at my press but when it comes time to load .357sig. .. I'd just soon sit in a hill of red fire ants. I recommend loading single stage with any brand of die. No one I'm aware makes carbide. You have to use case lube to size and don't allow anyone bullshit you how spray lube works better than Imperial. Sizing is everything with this caliber and it's easy to stick a case in sizing die with .357sig. IMR4756 is the powder to use in my opinion because it fills the case and that helps hold seat height. Also recommend using Lee FCD with this round.
Load conservatively with this round. It's a power junkie round so the tendacy is to max your charge out. Be wery, wery careful.... You can blow your shit up with this caliber easier than any hand gun round I can think of. |
|
I have reloaded many thousands of rounds on a Lee Pro 1000. I used Hornady Unique wax type lube. I only lubed about every 10th round. I used Berry's plated bullets and tried everything from Blue Dot (AKA flame thrower) to AA#5. I haven't loaded it in a few years but I think HS-6 is what I settled on for powder. Don't be afraid  ETA: You want a powder with larger volume so that it is a compressed load to limit "set back" |
|
I have been loading for my .357 sig for more than 6 years (P229). I have and still use redding, lee, and rcbs dies for it. Only major thing is if using .357 sig dies, remember to lube...everyone has their favorite lube....I make my own and have used many others with no problem. One trick I learned a few years back for yellow brass: I run mine through a .40 cal resizing die first, then through the .357 sig sizer die for the neck and shoulder. This process eliminated my need to lube the brass for sizing. I was nervous when I first tried it, but it works. There is info in many different forums on using the .40 sizer. The only problem I had was nickel brass shot from the sig 229. I had my best luck using redding .357 sig dies. When sizing nickel with RCBS, Lee, or my .40 sizer, there was a noticeable sharp/defined rim at the base of the brass. I thought it was operator error, so after trying this with multiple die sets, I feel it wasn't, but more the rigid nickel cases. All of my brass was once fired from sig 229's (nickel and brass). I use speer 125 FMJ and Gold dots for the .357 sig. I think a company called Montana bullets makes a 125 gr. .357 sig bullet. I know others have used different 9mm bullets...but I have no experience with those. I use AA#7 and AA#9. No particular reason for those powders. I have used those for years with other calibers. Hope this helps......there is a lot of information out there. The best thing about this caliber is no one runs off with your brass at the range.
|
| i have recently got into reloading 357 sig and i have a few pointers for you. You can't use round nose 9mm projectiles. with the 357 sig, you will have to seat it too deep and when you "debell/crimp" it, there isnt enough material for the brass to hold. what you will get is the projectile falling into the cast. you should use a round nose flat point or a truncated cone. i think your choices are 122gr or 147 gr. i cast my own. I use Accurate No.5. if you do, you should use harder lead. i believe the sig has a poly barrel and you should use plated or jacketed projectiles. I use a spray lube and spray a little in my die. let it dry for at least a min and off u go. it is a great round and is loud, with lots of penetration if needed. have fun and take ur time with it. |
|
Quoted:
I have been loading for my .357 sig for more than 6 years (P229). I have and still use redding, lee, and rcbs dies for it. Only major thing is if using .357 sig dies, remember to lube...everyone has their favorite lube....I make my own and have used many others with no problem. One trick I learned a few years back for yellow brass: I run mine through a .40 cal resizing die first, then through the .357 sig sizer die for the neck and shoulder. This process eliminated my need to lube the brass for sizing. I was nervous when I first tried it, but it works. There is info in many different forums on using the .40 sizer. The only problem I had was nickel brass shot from the sig 229. I had my best luck using redding .357 sig dies. When sizing nickel with RCBS, Lee, or my .40 sizer, there was a noticeable sharp/defined rim at the base of the brass. I thought it was operator error, so after trying this with multiple die sets, I feel it wasn't, but more the rigid nickel cases. All of my brass was once fired from sig 229's (nickel and brass). I use speer 125 FMJ and Gold dots for the .357 sig. I think a company called Montana bullets makes a 125 gr. .357 sig bullet. I know others have used different 9mm bullets...but I have no experience with those. I use AA#7 and AA#9. No particular reason for those powders. I have used those for years with other calibers. Hope this helps......there is a lot of information out there. The best thing about this caliber is no one runs off with your brass at the range. Same here. No issues at all loading for the 357 Sig round. |
| Need bulets designed for it to prevent bullet setback. I use alot of powerpistol in this one. Ive stufed this round into a few DI ARs. This round shines with some extra brl length. The rem88g HPs for the 380 are a blast to shoot. I run 11.2g powerpistol with the 88gRem & get 1950fps with a 7.5" tube. The 125s get 1650fps with same brl. |
Armory Sponsor