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Posted: 9/7/2010 5:40:35 AM EDT
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hi all
had some questions on shot shell reloading. First of all, does it really make a difference in shells. arent they all more or less are all the same? and with wads, y so many types. just curios and would like some info on the subject. Thanks |
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read this http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=299960 Shell's aren't more or less all the same. They vary in the weight of the shot and the size of the shot pellets |
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It does make a difference. You really arent supposed to vary from the published loads. And the published loads are specific for wad/shell types. I found that I like Winchester heavy sporting (Grey Hulls) the best as they load and reload very easy. I run claybuster wads over red dot and Win 209's.
Reminton STS (green hulls) are good too. I used to run Win red AA's but now have enough grey hulls to last me 3 lifetimes. This is my go to skeet load and I have made 10's of thousands of them. |
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No they are not more or less the same. The small differences in shotgun shells are the reason for so many load recipes. Not only for pressure differences, they effect the way the components "fit' inside and crimp. I know, I've tried to 'Make my own" and have received my reward for doing so. Just from your statement I would suggest several of the very good books on reloading for shotgun. The trick is the same for metallic ctgs. CONSISTENCY !!!!
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Quoted: Is there the possibility of pressure problems if the wad seat pressure is increased or does the wad absorb the pressure? My mec press has an adjustment for wad seat pressure. With hand gun loads the bullet seat depth has direct influence on case pressure. No. Shotshells are low pressure any way, max is around 12,000 psi, typical PSI's are 9000-11,000 PSI |
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Buy this and read it.
Shotshell hulls are not the same from brand to brand in the same gauge. Furthermore, primers are different as well. If the load says to use X powder with Y hull and Z primer, do so. Not following the load can have deleterious effects on you, your digits, and your firearms. |
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Go pick up a few empty shotgun hulls of various brands and saw them in half longitudinally. Then compare. Externally, they all look pretty much the same, but internally there are many major and minor differences. If you study various brands and types of wads, you'll discover there are many differences there as well. A wad made for a 7/8 ounce load will have a shorter shot cup than one made for a 1.5 ounce load. Wads for steel shot(or similar non toxic shot) will have thicker petals on the shot cup to help protect the bore.
As far as I'm concerned, the old style Winchester AA hull was perfect. The new AA "HS" is crap IMO and does not hold up as well. Target hulls, such as the old AA, will usually be constructed of better material than cheap promo loads and will last for more reload/firing cycles. Target loads will also have better wads and harder shot than promo loads, which is why they will typically pattern better from a given shotgun. Shotgun loading looks much simpler than rifle or handgun, but in all actuality, it is more complex...especially if you want the best performance possible from your handloads. |
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Quoted:
Go pick up a few empty shotgun hulls of various brands and saw them in half longitudinally. Then compare. Externally, they all look pretty much the same, but internally there are many major and minor differences. If you study various brands and types of wads, you'll discover there are many differences there as well. A wad made for a 7/8 ounce load will have a shorter shot cup than one made for a 1.5 ounce load. Wads for steel shot(or similar non toxic shot) will have thicker petals on the shot cup to help protect the bore. As far as I'm concerned, the old style Winchester AA hull was perfect. The new AA "HS" is crap IMO and does not hold up as well. Target hulls, such as the old AA, will usually be constructed of better material than cheap promo loads and will last for more reload/firing cycles. Target loads will also have better wads and harder shot than promo loads, which is why they will typically pattern better from a given shotgun. Shotgun loading looks much simpler than rifle or handgun, but in all actuality, it is more complex...especially if you want the best performance possible from your handloads. 
Very good advice in the above post. AA. left side, second one down. 
You need a book to match up hulls. Win AA hull, my favorite. 
Lymans latest is # 5. |
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wow
thanks for all of the great ammo. so i have another question. i know that one of the advantages of reloading pistol or rifle is that it is usually cheaper than buying of the shelf. Thats just one. i know that there are probably 100s more. So is it cost effective to reload shot shell too? this is what i come across for numbers: Wads $20per k .02 per shell primer $40 per K .04 powder $30 a Lb at 20 gr .09 shot 50lbs #8 at $80 - 1oz .10 that comes to .25 a shot or $25 per 100. There is shot at wally mart for $20 a hundred. i can find reclaimed shot for 50 for 50lbs |
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Quoted:
wow thanks for all of the great ammo. so i have another question. i know that one of the advantages of reloading pistol or rifle is that it is usually cheaper than buying of the shelf. Thats just one. i know that there are probably 100s more. So is it cost effective to reload shot shell too? this is what i come across for numbers: Wads $20per k .02 per shell primer $40 per K .04 powder $30 a Lb at 20 gr .09 shot 50lbs #8 at $80 - 1oz .10 that comes to .25 a shot or $25 per 100. There is shot at wally mart for $20 a hundred. i can find reclaimed shot for 50 for 50lbs It depends on where you get the components. I'm paying $24/1000, primers, $12/lb, powder, $29/lb, shot, and $13/1000, wads. It also helps to buy in volume, like 5000 each wads and primers, 8-16lb of powder, 10 bags of shot.volume, like 5000 each wads and primers, 8-16lb of powder, 10 bags of shot. I shoot 15-25,000 trap loads each year depending on health and finances. I also feel you can reload better quality shells than the bargain brand and still load cheaper than I can buy. . . |
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Quoted:
wow thanks for all of the great ammo. so i have another question. i know that one of the advantages of reloading pistol or rifle is that it is usually cheaper than buying of the shelf. Thats just one. i know that there are probably 100s more. So is it cost effective to reload shot shell too? this is what i come across for numbers: Wads $20per k .02 per shell primer $40 per K .04 powder $30 a Lb at 20 gr .09 shot 50lbs #8 at $80 - 1oz .10 that comes to .25 a shot or $25 per 100. There is shot at wally mart for $20 a hundred. i can find reclaimed shot for 50 for 50lbs Your prices are off versus what I paid recently. Powder is $15-$20 per pound locally around here. It's even less if you buy 30-50 pounds via mail order. I just bought Remington Magnum shot for $32/25#. I can also get wads for about $16-$18 per thousand and primers for about $30 per thousand. But, let's run with your numbers. Your comparing promo loads to your handloads that are presumably assembled with premium components. So not only should you be getting better patterns, you can tailor the load to your needs. Want a light target load? Decrease the charge. Shooting handicap or sporting clays? Increase the powder charge. Compare the prices on AA or STS target loads to your reloads, or the prices on hunting loads (1.25 or 1.5 oz of #6 at 1200+ fps) versus reloads. Reloads should be substantially cheaper. |
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Quoted:
I'm paying $24/1000, primers, $12/lb, powder, $29/lb, shot, and $13/1000, wads. It also helps to buy in volume, like 5000 each wads and primers, 8-16lb of powder, 10 bags of shot.volume, like 5000 each wads and primers, 8-16lb of powder, 10 bags of shot. these are great prices |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
wow thanks for all of the great ammo. so i have another question. i know that one of the advantages of reloading pistol or rifle is that it is usually cheaper than buying of the shelf. Thats just one. i know that there are probably 100s more. So is it cost effective to reload shot shell too? this is what i come across for numbers: Wads $20per k .02 per shell primer $40 per K .04 powder $30 a Lb at 20 gr .09 shot 50lbs #8 at $80 - 1oz .10 that comes to .25 a shot or $25 per 100. There is shot at wally mart for $20 a hundred. i can find reclaimed shot for 50 for 50lbs It depends on where you get the components. I'm paying $24/1000, primers, $12/lb, powder, $29/25lb shot, and $13/1000, wads. It also helps to buy in volume, like 5000 each wads and primers, 8-16lb of powder, 10 bags of shot. I shoot 15-25,000 trap loads each year depending on health and finances. I also feel you can reload better quality shells than the bargain brand and still load cheaper than I can buy. . . . |
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hi all
thanks for all of the great info. i have been reading the lymans book that was suggested. wow didnt know that there was so much to learn. nothing too hard, but explains the reasons why you do it the way it is done. I think i am going to go with the RCBS press. well before you kill me on this here is my reason. 1. after seeing the lee press, i think i want something a little stronger. its simple and to the point on the design, but feels a little flimsby 2. MEC press. very nice press and a shop locally has it. down side is that charge bars are 20 bucks a pop and a little more exspensive than rcbs 3. rcbs press uses powder bushings at $6 a pop and can do the 3 1/2" shells and there is a taper die too (not really a deal breaker, but nice too) |
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Quoted: hi all thanks for all of the great info. i have been reading the lymans book that was suggested. wow didnt know that there was so much to learn. nothing too hard, but explains the reasons why you do it the way it is done. I think i am going to go with the RCBS press. well before you kill me on this here is my reason. 1. after seeing the lee press, i think i want something a little stronger. its simple and to the point on the design, but feels a little flimsby 2. MEC press. very nice press and a shop locally has it. down side is that charge bars are 20 bucks a pop and a little more exspensive than rcbs 3. rcbs press uses powder bushings at $6 a pop and can do the 3 1/2" shells and there is a taper die too (not really a deal breaker, but nice too) 1. Agreed Lee is flimsey 2. You can get a universal charge bar for the MEC 3. the MEC has a taper crimp die, at least my Grabber does |
| If its the RCBS progressive press, I'd recommend something else. One of my friends bought one and had all kinds of trouble with it. He sold it and went back to his MEC progressive machines. I can't comment on the RCBS single stage press as I haven't used it or know anyone who has one. I've got 5 MEC presses in 3 gauges. I've loaded a lot of ammo on them...target loads to slugs. I've gotten good service out of them. |
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Quoted:
it would be a single stage press. i have more time a patience than money lol i only plan on making about 300 shells a month if that. Don't be afraid to check out used progressive presses. I scored a Ponsness Warren 800B for $200. It looked like crap, but after a bit of TLC it's running great. I've put over 110,00 rounds through it in 7 years. If you can load fast you'll be more likely to shoot more. It's addicting  .
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Quoted:
Quoted:
it would be a single stage press. i have more time a patience than money lol i only plan on making about 300 shells a month if that. Don't be afraid to check out used progressive presses. I scored a Ponsness Warren 800B for $200. It looked like crap, but after a bit of TLC it's running great. I've put over 110,00 rounds through it in 7 years. If you can load fast you'll be more likely to shoot more. It's addicting .
+1. I've seen some Hornady 366 progressives for around $200 too. |
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