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Posted: 5/5/2010 6:37:37 AM EDT
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Hey guys, I recently started reloading, and went through my first batch of 30 rounds. I am using a 60-grain bullet resulting in a case length of approximately 2.255. However, I took another look at the length of the bullet, and it looks like I have seated the bullet slightly (~1mm) past the neck. Will this be an issue, or will it still function properly? I will be firing this in my AR-15.
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I am not sure what you are asking, you use metric and standard mesurements. Always stick with standard mesurements in reloading, this is what all reliable data is given in. But I am not sure what you mean that you seated the bullet just past the neck????
We also have a reloading section for posts like this. You will get a lot more replies. I am sure it will get moved anyway. NCH |
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Im assuming you mean because of the length of the bullet and your over all case length
the base of the bullet inside the case is past the neck. If this is what you're asking, than as long as your under max charge for given bullet you'll be fine. 77gr SMK's seat way deeper than the case neck. |
Yeah that's what I'm asking. Sorry, I'm just getting used to the terminology, so I may sound a bit awkward.  I am slightly (0.3gn) under the max charge for the 60-grain bullet as listed by Sierra for AR-15. I imagine it's not going to be a big deal, but I wanted to make sure.
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Quoted:
Just to add a stupid question to this discussion: What, besides the grouping on a target, would decide when to accept a load as "the one"? Velocity if you're relying on fragmentation for one. ETA: Making sure it cycles your weapon reliably. Is it showing pressure signs, wearing your brass too much. |
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Quoted:
Just to add a stupid question to this discussion: What, besides the grouping on a target, would decide when to accept a load as "the one"? Sir, just to address your first question, I too am a bit confused what exactly you are asking. Cartridge OAL in an AR-15 is really a matter of the cartridges feeding reliably into the magazine, in other words they are not to long to load more than one cartridge into the magazine. The limits of seating depth are when you seat the bullet bearing surface below the case neck. That means that the tangent of the upper bearing where the curve of the bullet known as the ogive is below the edge of the case mouth. As long as you're somewhere within these limitations and you have not seated the bullet to the point where you are compressing the powder charge you should not have a problem with any of the cartridges you have reloaded. Another forum member suggested using a bullet with a crimping groove which is a good indication of where the manufacturer thinks the case mouth needs to be crimped. A lot of bullets commercially available don't have such a groove and there is no reason you shouldn't use them just that you need to know what the seating depth limitations you need to remain within actually are. Ultimately, my determination of which load is "the one" as you have put it depends on how closely the bullets group on paper at each successive distance I intend to shoot them. I do use a chronograph to measure velocities and various averages such as Standard Deviation and Extreme spread, and I work to achieve low values for each of those averages but the ultimate determining factor is how well they group on paper. It has been my experience that when you have a high SD or ES you will not have very good groups due to elevation dispersion so the chronograph criteria goes hand in glove with good groups. When I work up loads I continue to refine the loads to not only achieve good groups but to also achieve the lowest possible SD and ES. HTH, 7zero1. |
| You'll lose a bit of efficiency when the bullet extends into the case past the neck but it isn't much of a deal and is the price you pay for loading a bullet that is a good bit heavier/longer than the cartridge was originally designed for. In my experience thus far, it's a price worth paying. |
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Quoted:
Yeah that's what I'm asking. Sorry, I'm just getting used to the terminology, so I may sound a bit awkward. I am slightly (0.3gn) under the max charge for the 60-grain bullet as listed by Sierra for AR-15. I imagine it's not going to be a big deal, but I wanted to make sure.This is the part that got my attention. You should start 10% below max and work up, your individual rifle may start showing pressure signs well before you reach the max load in the book. Safety first......and all that stuff. Good luck. |
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Yeah, I'm a little worried after the warnings I've read, so I'll probably load up a dozen rounds that have incremental charges. I'm hoping I can still use the ones I did load, since dumping them and reloading seems like it might be a bad idea. Residual powder is my concern when dumping an unused round, but that may be unfounded. Like I said, this is my first time reloading.
I might add that I wasn't necessarily shooting for the max charge. Rather, that is what was listed for the optimum accuracy load. |
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Quoted: Yeah, I'm a little worried after the warnings I've read, so I'll probably load up a dozen rounds that have incremental charges. I'm hoping I can still use the ones I did load, since dumping them and reloading seems like it might be a bad idea. Residual powder is my concern when dumping an unused round, but that may be unfounded. Like I said, this is my first time reloading. I might add that I wasn't necessarily shooting for the max charge. Rather, that is what was listed for the optimum accuracy load. What is the recommended seating depth for this bullet? How much further did you seat these? If you are unsure, bullet pullers are your friend. Just starting out reloading, I think it's better to play it safe and be overly cautious than to take chances, but that's just me. And start at 10% below the max, work up in 1 or 2% increments. For .223, I usually build 10 rounds each .1 grains apart and work up. As to how to judge your ammo, my opinion is that when you're starting out you should probably worry about safety (pressure signs), cycling the action of your rifle, and then accuracy (in that order). Things like making sure it's fast enough to fragment or something like that is a worry for later if you decide that's your reloading goal. The important thing is to find some good loads that are safe with your rifle first, then start tweaking things. If you stick with accuracy as your main goal, you can probably get away without buying a chronograph for quite some time. |
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Quoted:
Yeah, I'm a little worried after the warnings I've read, so I'll probably load up a dozen rounds that have incremental charges. I'm hoping I can still use the ones I did load, since dumping them and reloading seems like it might be a bad idea. Residual powder is my concern when dumping an unused round, but that may be unfounded. Like I said, this is my first time reloading. I might add that I wasn't necessarily shooting for the max charge. Rather, that is what was listed for the optimum accuracy load. odds are very good that you will be able to use them, I would load up several to that just to be sure. Welcome to the new addiction |
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Quoted:
Just to add a stupid question to this discussion: What, besides the grouping on a target, would decide when to accept a load as "the one"? For me this would be a load that groups the best out of a series of "work up loads" ,also no pressure signs. Then I would shoot groups on several trips to the range to confirm. Welcome to Arfcom. 
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