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Posted: 4/1/2010 6:16:53 AM EDT
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Has anyone experienced improperly swaged brass when purchasing "Ready to Load" .223 brass from Hi-Tech Ammo? I purchased a few thou to jump start my reloading instead of trimming and purchasing a $100 swager. I have had to deburr the outside of about 50% of the cases, but that helps me to spot check each one for issues. I ran about 10 cases through the priming stage on the Dillon last night and only about 3 allowed the primer to properly seat.
I am not as up to speed on case prep as I should be so please let me know what to look for on a swaged case vs a non-swaged .mil case. Is it the outermost edge that causes problems or the whole pockets inner diameter? These primers (Rem 7 1/2's) will initially seat but stick out about 1/16" even with a lot of force. I can get some pictures if that will help as well. Thanks for any input. ETA: It was the primer seater being installed too low. I had recently purchased the spare parts kits and may have put in the wrong spring. I grabbed a shorter spring (looks like the powder op rod return spring) and after pushing down and tightening the set screw, let go of the primer cup, lightly untorqued the set screw and the seater popped back up to the correct height. Works fine now. |
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I borrowed my buddy's RCBS swager and ran a few federal bulk pack brass through it. I had some various
"FC" brass, and some felt funny and it turns out they were not crimped. Anyway, long story short it was much easier to seat primers in brass that was never crimped, than it was to seat crimped and swaged brass. So it is possible that that you just have a slightly finicky setup, and not nessessarily bad processing. |
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Ok, I will double check everything and see if I can snag some pics.
This is the first time trying to load rifle on this Dillon. It has worked fine with .38SPL and .45ACP. I had the large primer cup and seating pin in there for both and no issues. I put in a new small primer cup and spring, pushed them down as hard as I could, then tightened the set screw. When I push forward on the lever the handle hits the case ejector ramp item but the pin extends above the cup about 1/8", that should be plenty. I dinged up a few primers trying to seat them and one even shaved off a sliver of steel or whatever they are made of. Kind of scary. It feels properly adjusted but I am new to reloading. Brass looks clean for the most part, not much carbon in the primer pockets. |
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If you are having some shaving parts of the primers then it's an alignment issue. It shouldn't take too much force to seat a primer - if your having to push real hard you can accidently detonate them.
You should have/get a hand priming tool. Wal-Mart has RCBS ones now .... try that and see if they seat fine. That way you can narrow down the problem. Sarg |
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You don't need to hand prime cases that are loaded on a Dillon press. Guessing a 550?
Get your crimp removal issue cleared up, and all will be good. 
Crimp not removed. 
Crimp removed. Tool shown is the small swaging button from a RCBS primer swage die. Any case that has a tight primer pocket, remove from press and use a Hornady primer pocket reamer. |
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Quoted:
You don't need to hand prime cases that are loaded on a Dillon press. Guessing a 550? Get your crimp removal issue cleared up, and all will be good. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/PC280349.jpg Crimp not removed. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/PC280348.jpg Crimp removed. Tool shown is the small swaging button from a RCBS primer swage die. Any case that has a tight primer pocket, remove from press and use a Hornady primer pocket reamer. Thanks for the tip! I will get that tool the next time I see a Midway discount code pop up. I loaded my first 20 rifle rounds last night. Hand measured but primed/seated with the Dillon 550. I'm not sure if the brass is re-sized too tight or what but when seating a thin ring or sliver of metal forms at the junction of the bullet and case neck. Nosler 69gr. |
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