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9/4/2009 11:51:20 PM EDT
Full sized a few casings.  Checked with my Wilson Head Space Gauge.  That the rim is recessed below the high step on the gauge.  But the straight

edge will just barely touch the spot around the primer hole.  Do you think these are good too go?  Or should I go ahead re-size the casings to be on the

safe side.  Thanks too everyone for any future responses to this problem.
9/5/2009 12:11:27 AM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
Full sized a few casings.  Checked with my Wilson Head Space Gauge.  That the rim is recessed below the high step on the gauge.  But the straight

edge will just barely touch the spot around the primer hole.  Do you think these are good too go?  Or should I go ahead re-size the casings to be on the

safe side.  Thanks too everyone for any future responses to this problem.


Chamber some of your sized brass in the intended weapon and see if you can close the bolt. You don't give us too much info.

Chris

9/5/2009 12:48:56 AM EDT
[#2]
Sorry about that am going to be using a Ar-15 dpms sportical, and a new ruger ar 556.
9/5/2009 5:34:20 AM EDT
[#3]
If the case is not slightly below the end of the case gauge, you will have chambering problems.

My Dillon gauge has 2 steps. You want to between the two steps.

Screw your sizing die down 1/8 turn, size a case, wipe off lube, try in gauge.

Repeat until case "gauges" correctly.
9/5/2009 6:12:25 AM EDT
[#4]
If I may chime in on this.Is having a headspace guage a necessary tool to have? I mean if you full length resize your .223 cases and trim them to length where do you run into problems, where is case growing or changing in its demensions.Thanks!
9/5/2009 7:49:14 AM EDT
[#5]
No, you already have one, it's called a rifle. Always check with an empty, sized case first.
You run into problems if the size die isn't screwed in far enough, or not using lube inside the neck and pulling the angle of the shoulder(headspace) out when extracting the expander.
'Borg
9/5/2009 8:43:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Quoted:
If I may chime in on this.Is having a headspace guage a necessary tool to have? I mean if you full length resize your .223 cases and trim them to length where do you run into problems, where is case growing or changing in its demensions.Thanks!


The idea of the guage is it helps you properly adjust your resizing die. You can use your rifle, as mentioned, but a guage is more convenient, IMO.

As always YMMV

9/5/2009 9:30:24 AM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
If I may chime in on this.Is having a headspace guage a necessary tool to have? I mean if you full length resize your .223 cases and trim them to length where do you run into problems, where is case growing or changing in its demensions.Thanks!


For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.  

Examples……..

http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_detail_list/Case-Gauges-Headspace-Tools


This is how I do mine.

6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.”  I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases.  Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved.   I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices).  Insert a case into the case gauge.  The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“   While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on).   IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.  When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run).


Note that this is my step #6.

What you end up doing is up to you.

Aloha, Mark

9/5/2009 9:32:24 AM EDT
[#8]
Quoted:
Full sized a few casings.  Checked with my Wilson Head Space Gauge.  That the rim is recessed below the high step on the gauge.  But the straight

edge will just barely touch the spot around the primer hole.  Do you think these are good too go?  Or should I go ahead re-size the casings to be on the

safe side.  Thanks too everyone for any future responses to this problem.


At or between the high and low cuts on your gauge is GTG.

Aloha, Mark



9/5/2009 1:15:23 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Quoted:
If I may chime in on this.Is having a headspace guage a necessary tool to have? I mean if you full length resize your .223 cases and trim them to length where do you run into problems, where is case growing or changing in its demensions.Thanks!


For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is to gauge your re-sized brass. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.  

Examples……..

http://www.sinclairintl.com/prod_detail_list/Case-Gauges-Headspace-Tools


This is how I do mine.

6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.”  I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases.  Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved.   I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices).  Insert a case into the case gauge.  The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“   While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on).   IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.  When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run).


Note that this is my step #6.

What you end up doing is up to you.

Aloha, Mark


Thanks your number 6 there got me straight on it...but i think i will get a case gauge.

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