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Posted: 8/25/2009 11:09:41 AM EDT
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Alright, I'll admit it. I'm new to reloading pistol rounds.
I recently got my rock chucker set back up and have cleaned and resized/deprimed all my .45 ACP brass. I'm using the RCBS 3 Die Carbide Set and have never had to flare a round before. How much do I need? Also, from the bit of googling I've done, it sounds like my seating/crimping die will also tone down the flare after the bullet is seated? Is this correct? Any info would be great. Thanks guys! ETA: I might as well ask. Do you guys ream primer holes on handgun brass? |
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Quoted:
I don't ream primer holes on anything... Just put enough flare on the brass to open the mouth for the bullet. Bell it about a milimeter or so. I seat the bullet, and then crimp on a separate die.... just straighten the case wall back out. This. You need 4 dies. The final die is a separate taper crimp to make sure there will be no bullet set back. |
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Flare it enough so that the bullet will not be shaved as it is seated in the case. Generally I open the flare a little at a time until I can get the whole base of the bullet in the opening (ever so slightly). The less you flare, the less metal fatigue you are inflicting on the case.
You can do it fine with the 3 die set. Unless I need a heavy crimp (44 mag), I do not use a seperate crimp die. |
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Quoted:
Flare it enough so that the bullet will not be shaved as it is seated in the case. Generally I open the flare a little at a time until I can get the whole base of the bullet in the opening (ever so slightly). The less you flare, the less metal fatigue you are inflicting on the case. You can do it fine with the 3 die set. Unless I need a heavy crimp (44 mag), I do not use a seperate crimp die. Just a little flare, as above. You can load with three dies, It's just easier to seat and crimp in seperate dies. Hense 4 dies. eta, Don't bother to ream primer pockets, or debur flasholes with pistol brass. In 45 ACP, I don't sort brass by headstamps either, mil and commercial cases all in same batch. |
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DF has nailed the best advice.
But, pictch any AMERC brass. Be cautious of S&B brass with tight primer pockets. Unless you have time to waste 45ACP case prep is easy! Shoot, clean it up, load it, and repeat........sort of an infinite loop as 45ACP brass will last forever! |
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quote.
THREE DIE SETS Straight wall pistol and rifle cases require a three die set. The first die resizes and decaps the case. The second die expands (bells) the case mouth to accept a new bullet, and the third die seats (and, if desired, crimps) the bullet. These dies must be correctly adjusted to produce a proper reload. Adjusting the resizing die Some three die sets for reloading pistol cartridges are available with a tungsten carbide insert in the resizing die. These more expensive resizing/decapping dies do not generally require case lubricant for the resizing operation. They are used and adjusted just like a regular die, except that they should be adjusted in the press so that the shell holder does not strike the bottom of the die. Screw a carbide resizing die into the press with the shell holder at the top of the stroke. When the die touches the shell holder, stop and tighten the large lock nut. Do not screw a carbide die so far into the press that it cams over at the top of the stroke. Whether the resizing die is carbide or the standard steel type, the decapping pin should be adjusted so that is protrudes 3/16" below the bottom of the die. Loosen the small lock nut at the top of the die and turn the decap assembly in or out to achieve approximately 3/16" of protrusion, and tighten the lock nut. Make sure the decapping pin is still centered in the die after the lock nut has been tightened. Adjusting the expander die First, run the shell holder to the top of its stroke, then screw the expander die into the press until it touches the shell holder and tighten the large lock ring. Lower the shell holder, place a resized case in the shell holder, and run it fully into the expander die. Check the mouth of the case. It should be expanded and belled just enough to accept a new bullet. Excessive belling of the mouth shortens case life. If the case needs more or less expansion, loosen the lock nut at the top of the die and screw the tapered expander plug up or down until the correct amount of belling at the mouth of the case is achieved, then re-tighten the lock nut. Adjusting a roll crimp bullet seating die Most revolver cartridges require a roll crimp to hold the bullet in place during recoil. Bullets intended to be roll crimped must have a crimping cannelure (a crimping groove). Do not attempt to roll crimp bullets without a cannelure. Also, make sure that your resized cases are all the same length. If they are not, trim the cases to the overall length specified in your reloading manual. For consistent roll crimping the cases must all be the same length. The crimping feature is machined into the seating die and the amount of crimp is determined by how far the die is screwed into the press. For seating bullets without crimping, adjust the bullet seating die as per the instructions (above) under TWO DIE SETS. For bullet seating with a roll crimp, adjust the seating die as follows. First, place a prepared (resized, primed and powder-charged) case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the ram stroke. Second, screw the seating die into the press until you feel it touch the case. Third, back off the seating die one full turn and set the large lock ring. Lower the prepared case and place a bullet in the case mouth. Run the case with bullet slowly into the die, stopping frequently to check the bullet seating depth as the bullet is pushed into the case. Adjust the seater plug up or down so that, at the top of the press stroke, the bullet is seated into the case so that the case mouth is even with the middle of the bullet's crimping cannelure. The next step is to adjust the die to crimp. With the uncrimped cartridge still in the seater die, back off the bullet seater plug several turns. Next, loosen the large lock ring and screw the body of the seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the uncrimped cartridge and turn the seater die down approximately 1/8 turn. Run the prepared cartridge fully into the seater die and check the crimp. The bullet should be held securely. Setting the seater die too far into the press will excessively crimp the case and may cause a bulge in the body of the case. Refine the adjustment of the seater die until you are satisfied with the amount of crimp, and then tighten the large lock ring. The last step is to run a perfectly crimped cartridge all the way into the seater die. Then turn the bullet seater plug back down until it touches the bullet. Tighten the seater plug lock nut. You bullet seating die is now correctly adjusted and will seat and crimp bullets with a single stroke of the press. Adjusting a taper crimp bullet seating die Cartridges for autoloading pistols are generally taper crimped. This is necessary because such cartridges headspace on the case mouth, so a roll crimp cannot be used. Taper crimp bullet seating dies are specially marked. RCBS marks theirs "TC" for easy identification. The taper crimping feature is machined into the die and the amount of crimp is determined by how far the seating die is screwed into the press. Cases to be taper crimped must all be the same length, but bullets do not require a crimping cannelure. The initial adjustment process is the same as described above in the roll crimp section. First, place a prepared (resized, primed and powder-charged) case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the ram stroke. Second, screw the seating die into the press until you feel it touch the case. Third, back off the seating die one full turn and set the large lock ring. Lower the prepared case and place a bullet in the case mouth. Run the case with bullet slowly into the die, stopping frequently to check the bullet seating depth as the bullet is pushed into the case. Adjust the seater plug up or down so that, at the top of the press stroke, the bullet is seated to the correct cartridge overall length as specified in your reloading manual. The next step is to adjust the die to crimp. With the uncrimped cartridge still in the seater die, back off the bullet seater plug several turns. Then loosen the large lock ring and screw the body of the seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the uncrimped cartridge and turn the seater die down approximately 1/8 turn. Run the prepared cartridge fully into the seater die and check the crimp. The bullet should be held securely. Refine the adjustment of the seater die until you are satisfied with the amount of crimp, and then tighten the large lock ring. The last step is to run a perfectly crimped cartridge all the way into the seater die. Then turn the bullet seater plug back down until it touches the bullet. Tighten the seater plug lock nut. You bullet seating die is now correctly adjusted and will seat and taper crimp bullets with a single stroke off the press. end quote. Taken from the web site: http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm Aloha, Mark |
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Quoted:
quote. THREE DIE SETS Straight wall pistol and rifle cases require a three die set. The first die resizes and decaps the case. The second die expands (bells) the case mouth to accept a new bullet, and the third die seats (and, if desired, crimps) the bullet. These dies must be correctly adjusted to produce a proper reload. Adjusting the resizing die Some three die sets for reloading pistol cartridges are available with a tungsten carbide insert in the resizing die. These more expensive resizing/decapping dies do not generally require case lubricant for the resizing operation. They are used and adjusted just like a regular die, except that they should be adjusted in the press so that the shell holder does not strike the bottom of the die. Screw a carbide resizing die into the press with the shell holder at the top of the stroke. When the die touches the shell holder, stop and tighten the large lock nut. Do not screw a carbide die so far into the press that it cams over at the top of the stroke. Whether the resizing die is carbide or the standard steel type, the decapping pin should be adjusted so that is protrudes 3/16" below the bottom of the die. Loosen the small lock nut at the top of the die and turn the decap assembly in or out to achieve approximately 3/16" of protrusion, and tighten the lock nut. Make sure the decapping pin is still centered in the die after the lock nut has been tightened. Adjusting the expander die First, run the shell holder to the top of its stroke, then screw the expander die into the press until it touches the shell holder and tighten the large lock ring. Lower the shell holder, place a resized case in the shell holder, and run it fully into the expander die. Check the mouth of the case. It should be expanded and belled just enough to accept a new bullet. Excessive belling of the mouth shortens case life. If the case needs more or less expansion, loosen the lock nut at the top of the die and screw the tapered expander plug up or down until the correct amount of belling at the mouth of the case is achieved, then re-tighten the lock nut. Adjusting a roll crimp bullet seating die Most revolver cartridges require a roll crimp to hold the bullet in place during recoil. Bullets intended to be roll crimped must have a crimping cannelure (a crimping groove). Do not attempt to roll crimp bullets without a cannelure. Also, make sure that your resized cases are all the same length. If they are not, trim the cases to the overall length specified in your reloading manual. For consistent roll crimping the cases must all be the same length. The crimping feature is machined into the seating die and the amount of crimp is determined by how far the die is screwed into the press. For seating bullets without crimping, adjust the bullet seating die as per the instructions (above) under TWO DIE SETS. For bullet seating with a roll crimp, adjust the seating die as follows. First, place a prepared (resized, primed and powder-charged) case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the ram stroke. Second, screw the seating die into the press until you feel it touch the case. Third, back off the seating die one full turn and set the large lock ring. Lower the prepared case and place a bullet in the case mouth. Run the case with bullet slowly into the die, stopping frequently to check the bullet seating depth as the bullet is pushed into the case. Adjust the seater plug up or down so that, at the top of the press stroke, the bullet is seated into the case so that the case mouth is even with the middle of the bullet's crimping cannelure. The next step is to adjust the die to crimp. With the uncrimped cartridge still in the seater die, back off the bullet seater plug several turns. Next, loosen the large lock ring and screw the body of the seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the uncrimped cartridge and turn the seater die down approximately 1/8 turn. Run the prepared cartridge fully into the seater die and check the crimp. The bullet should be held securely. Setting the seater die too far into the press will excessively crimp the case and may cause a bulge in the body of the case. Refine the adjustment of the seater die until you are satisfied with the amount of crimp, and then tighten the large lock ring. The last step is to run a perfectly crimped cartridge all the way into the seater die. Then turn the bullet seater plug back down until it touches the bullet. Tighten the seater plug lock nut. You bullet seating die is now correctly adjusted and will seat and crimp bullets with a single stroke of the press. Adjusting a taper crimp bullet seating die Cartridges for autoloading pistols are generally taper crimped. This is necessary because such cartridges headspace on the case mouth, so a roll crimp cannot be used. Taper crimp bullet seating dies are specially marked. RCBS marks theirs "TC" for easy identification. The taper crimping feature is machined into the die and the amount of crimp is determined by how far the seating die is screwed into the press. Cases to be taper crimped must all be the same length, but bullets do not require a crimping cannelure. The initial adjustment process is the same as described above in the roll crimp section. First, place a prepared (resized, primed and powder-charged) case into the shell holder and run it to the top of the ram stroke. Second, screw the seating die into the press until you feel it touch the case. Third, back off the seating die one full turn and set the large lock ring. Lower the prepared case and place a bullet in the case mouth. Run the case with bullet slowly into the die, stopping frequently to check the bullet seating depth as the bullet is pushed into the case. Adjust the seater plug up or down so that, at the top of the press stroke, the bullet is seated to the correct cartridge overall length as specified in your reloading manual. The next step is to adjust the die to crimp. With the uncrimped cartridge still in the seater die, back off the bullet seater plug several turns. Then loosen the large lock ring and screw the body of the seater die into the press until you feel it touch the mouth of the case. Lower the uncrimped cartridge and turn the seater die down approximately 1/8 turn. Run the prepared cartridge fully into the seater die and check the crimp. The bullet should be held securely. Refine the adjustment of the seater die until you are satisfied with the amount of crimp, and then tighten the large lock ring. The last step is to run a perfectly crimped cartridge all the way into the seater die. Then turn the bullet seater plug back down until it touches the bullet. Tighten the seater plug lock nut. You bullet seating die is now correctly adjusted and will seat and taper crimp bullets with a single stroke off the press. end quote. Taken from the web site: http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm Aloha, Mark Thanks!!!!!! |
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There ya go, follow the complete instructions posted by Mark there.
I use the same dies you're using, OP, for .45ACP. As others have said, just a very slight flare, just enough to allow the bullet to start to go into the case. I've found that the amount of flare needed can sometimes depend on exactly what bullet type your'e using. Not always though. And yeah, I seat and crimp in the same operation with those dies. No problems at all, once you get them adjusted properly. Just takes a little patience. |
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