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Posted: 8/7/2009 1:07:35 PM EDT
| What do you people use to trim .45 brass? |
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Quoted:
What do you people use to trim .45 brass? I know some will call me lazy but I like to keep my wrists from getting a painful disorder like carpel tunnel and I can not currently afford a nice power trimmer I posted this in the beginner kit poll thread: . Why process your brass when this guy does such a good job for such a reasonable price? http://pages.suddenlink.net/brassprocessing/ http://ee.ar15.com/ItemView.aspx?iid=10350 I sent 1000 rounds out on a Saturday, got it back the next Friday with shipping from MN to TX. This guy does a great job, trimmed to my length specified, great job. He is very reliable, very quick and very professional, I was definitely impressed and will use him when I get a new large pile of brass. I almost felt I should pay him more than he charges. I HIGHLY recommend him for those having trouble with their hands as I was with the Lee trimmer. |
| Believe it or not, I do have a 45ACP case holder for my Wilson trimmer. I even used it a few times. I thought I'd get more consistent crimps if my brass was uniform in length. I thought I'd get uniform headpsacing of the bcase in the chamber resulting in more uniform primer strikes and and uniform distance to the lands. |
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When I first started to reload 45 ACP (mid 90's) I measured my brass, and it was all shorter than "trim to length".
When I asked other reloaders about this, I was told that 45 ACP brass doesn't need trimming, and will shoot fine as is. They were right. So I have never trimmed any 45 ACP brass. I do debur the case mouth on the first reloading. You will know when your brass is worn out, the neck will split. A very easy round to reload, just don't over crimp, and pay attention to OAL. Get a case gauge to check your reloads. You want this, case head even or slightly below end of gauge. 
Gauge your sized brass, this checks your sizing die. Gauge your finished round, this checks your crimp and ensures round will chamber. Not this. Case is above end of gauge. 
With range brass, you will have some burrs on the extractor grove of case, and that will keep round from gauging. With small burrs, turn case around and insert case primer end first in gauge, wiggle it a little. Magic, it will now gauge (about 80% of the time). If that didn't work, file off the burr and try again. Just file the very end of case, not the case body. The "backwards" trick works on all calibers. I discovered this while gauging 223. Good luck |
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Trim length is .898", not sure what max is but your under what Nosler calls the case length shown in my manual.
SAAMI OAL of loaded rounds is (Min- 1.190") ( Min- 1.275") What powder are you loading with? Nosler also states the the 45 APC is most accurate in the 750-800 FPS range rather then those near max levels. |
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Quoted: Great post on case gage (gauge) use and correcting out of spec brassWhen I first started to reload 45 ACP (mid 90's) I measured my brass, and it was all shorter than "trim to length". When I asked other reloaders about this, I was told that 45 ACP brass doesn't need trimming, and will shoot fine as is. They were right. So I have never trimmed any 45 ACP brass. I do debur the case mouth on the first reloading. You will know when your brass is worn out, the neck will split. A very easy round to reload, just don't over crimp, and pay attention to OAL. Get a case gauge to check your reloads. You want this, case head even or slightly below end of gauge. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/P4260055.jpg Gauge your sized brass, this checks your sizing die. Gauge your finished round, this checks your crimp and ensures round will chamber. Not this. Case is above end of gauge. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/P4260056.jpg With range brass, you will have some burrs on the extractor grove of case, and that will keep round from gauging. With small burrs, turn case around and insert case primer end first in gauge, wiggle it a little. Magic, it will now gauge (about 80% of the time). If that didn't work, file off the burr and try again. Just file the very end of case, not the case body. The "backwards" trick works on all calibers. I discovered this while gauging 223. Good luck |
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Instead of paying for a case gauge I use my barrel as the gauge. Simply field strip the handgun and drop the loaded rounds in the barrel. The loaded round should be flush or below flush with the barrel's hood. This also insures that the round will fit your chamber.
I never have trimmed a straight walled handgun case in my life. They just don't grow. |
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Quoted:
Instead of paying for a case gauge I use my barrel as the gauge. Simply field strip the handgun and drop the loaded rounds in the barrel. The loaded round should be flush or below flush with the barrel's hood. This also insures that the round will fit your chamber. That is the other way of course. Case gauge is just handier for me, right on shelf over reloading bench. No need to open safe, field strip, ect. I never have trimmed a straight walled handgun case in my life. They just don't grow. |
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