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Posted: 7/6/2009 7:05:33 PM EDT
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For what ever reason I cant get my head around this. I've read and watched vids about setting head space. I understand what head space is and the why,how, ect. What I don't get is what exactly is the process to determine whether my head space is ok as I run the brass through the die. Is it as simple as chambering a case and making sure the bolt seats completely? Or is there more? |
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I use the Wilson Case Gages sold by Sinclair International. There are the RCBS Precision MIc and Stoney Point tools but the Wilson gages use the SAAMI min. and
max. dimensions. If you want to test-chamber a re-sized case or loaded round, be sure to strip the Bolt and clean the chamber and bolt face. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
For what ever reason I cant get my head around this. I've read and watched vids about setting head space. I understand what head space is and the why,how, ect. What I don't get is what exactly is the process to determine whether my head space is ok as I run the brass through the die. Is it as simple as chambering a case and making sure the bolt seats completely? Or is there more? That's the simple way. It worked well enough on my 300/221 ar project. I haven't invested in go/no go gauges yet for it. Put the die in the press as outlined in the instructions, then run one. Try chambering that piece of brass, if it goes, your inside max, if it doesn't then you need to screw the die in a little more. I guess it wouldn't hurt to unscrew a good fitting one just to make sure of your tolerances for good case life. Once you get one piece done, run another and check it. For some reason, if I pump the handle differently, I get slightly different measurements. |
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Quoted:
For what ever reason I cant get my head around this. I've read and watched vids about setting head space. I understand what head space is and the why,how, ect. What I don't get is what exactly is the process to determine whether my head space is ok as I run the brass through the die. Is it as simple as chambering a case and making sure the bolt seats completely? Or is there more? There is a bit more to it than that. For instance, your case may fit the chamber and the bolt may close completely and easily but you could have excessive headspace. More later, can't type now. |
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For simple ammo production, try this method.............
This is how I do mine.
6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“ While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run). Note that this is my step #6. Aloha, Mark |
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If you have only one firearm in that caliber, it only has to fit that one. But you don't know if there is excessive headspace (over-sizing) unless you pull the extractor and ejector, then use 0.005" shim stock on the bolt face and see if it chambers, if it doesn't, you are fine. But if you are loading for an assortment of rifles, then a gauge to check sized/loaded rounds is a good idea. |
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Here's a couple good articles often recommended by me:
http://www.realguns.com/archives/035.htm http://www.inlandshooters.net/index.php?contentid=99 Most important to measure your rifles headspace by comparing brass is to have once fired brass from your rifles chamber. You need to check a few pieces of brass to get a good idea of the case stretch rather than just one piece. |
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Quoted:
For simple ammo production, try this method............. This is how I do mine.
6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.” I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, lube your cases. Then, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct re-size" has been achieved. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks for the “correct re-size.“ While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct re-size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot (remember to test some cases throughout the run). Note that this is my step #6. Aloha, Mark I use this method as well but with a Dillon head space gauge. I check a few pieces of brass fired from my gun to see were the head sits in the head space gauge and then adjust my die to were it pushes the shoulder back just enough that the case head sits just below the top of the gauge and in the middle of the top and low cut-out on the top of the head space gauge. It was kinda of confusing to me also at first and then once I realized all you can do is make the case head fit between the top and bottom of the gauge cut-out you are fine and this is easily accomplished once you get a good head space gauge. I recommend the Dillon because it's SS and wont rust like the rest of my reloading dies and equip. from the humidity in my garage and LA in general (Damn it's been hot!). |
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Quoted:
Get the RCBS case guage. You can measure a fired case from your gun and then bump the shoulder back .002". If you want to do the .002" setback thing (i used to) with M1 Garand cases, you'd better measure a dozen or more because they'll all spring-back differently. If the headspace is within SAAMI spec, I just resize to minimum and forget about it. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Get the RCBS case guage. You can measure a fired case from your gun and then bump the shoulder back .002". If you want to do the .002" setback thing (i used to) with M1 Garand cases, you'd better measure a dozen or more because they'll all spring-back differently. If the headspace is within SAAMI spec, I just resize to minimum and forget about it. +1 I have been trying to tease my 7mm-08 (necked down 308's) to fit a Rem 700 VLS chamber using RCBS equipment. You are correct about different spring back. For all my work, expect shoulder bump process variation of +/- .0025". This result is from working with WCC and LC NATO 1X cases. YMMV. |
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