Quoted:
Anyone ever tried Armor All (like what you clean your car with) as a sizing lube?

I was sizing some once fired LC brass I had shoot last weekend and was using the LEE sizing lube as usual, but then I got to thinking there has got to be something around my house that's slick and easier to use and I just happen to see a bottle of Armor All setting on the shelf in the garage. So I said to myself what the hell and took a clean cloth and sprayed a section damp in Armor All, rolled a case across it and in the sizing die it went. This has got to be the best thing since sliced bread, it slide in and out of the sizing die effortlessly. So I continued to re-size the other 90 pieces of brass by just lightly rolling each one across the damp Armor-All rag and they sized better than I could have ever imagined it being done.

So is there anything in Armor-All that could be bad for the brass or any other negative affects of using it to re-size brass?

The brass only has to be lightly rolled across a cloth damp in armor-all, so there is no excessive amount on the brass and it doesn't get inside the case or primer pocket to cause any problems with the powder or primers.

Any thoughts?

Quoted:
Don't try it.  Proper case lubes are extreme pressure.  Motor oils, slippery snot, silicone's etc are not EP lubes.  Furthermore, they have poor chemical attraction to the brass.  This is what is needed.

The best lube for keeping powder and primers safe is Lee Case Resizing Lubricant, hands down.  The closest second would be Imperial.  The other advantage to these lubes is they aren't slippery meaning less mess/dropped cases and dirt-trapping goo.

Why won't oils work? Because the brass is larger than the die.  Oils flow and are removed by the interference fit.  Even greases are easily removed.

Copied from frfrogspad.com

Case Sizing Lubricants
Spray Lube
The spray-on case lubes are probably the best thing to happen to reloading in years. You can make your own spray case sizing lube in bulk by mixing liquid lanolin and 99% isopropyl alcohol. (While you can (kind of) use 91% isopropyl alcohol, its higher water content causes the lanolin to settle out and it must be shaken frequently during use. The more common 70% isopropyl "rubbing alcohol" will not work at all as its water content is much to high.)
Liquid lanolin, which is a refined lanolin oil with the solid fats removed (the reason why solid anhydrous lanolin doesn't work well in this application) is available from health food stores and sources specializing in ingredients for cosmetics. You want to get pure liquid lanolin without additives. Online sources include VitaGlo (http://www.vitaglo.com/7730.html) and Select Oils (http://www.selectoils.com/item––Lanolin-Liquid––SO-LanolinLiquid.html).
I just recently discovered that my local Safeway store carries 99 percent isopropyl in their drug/cosmetic isle for $0.99 for a 16 ounce bottle. Ninety-nine percent isopropyl alcohol is also available from many large paint stores (used for some finishes), some electronics stores (it's used for cleaning electronics) or local industrial chemical suppliers.
A solution of 1 part liquid lanolin and 4 to 5 parts parts 99 percent isopropyl alcohol (4 oz of liquid lanolin to16 - 20 oz of isopropyl) works well. When mixing you may find that the lanolin mixes better if you warm both the alcohol and lanolin in a bath of warm water to about 105 - 110 degrees F before mixing. DO NOT WARM EITHER OF THEM OVER AN OPEN FLAME! Once the solutions are warm, pour together, mix thoroughly, allow the mix to cool (mix occasionally as it cools) and store in an air tight container to prevent water from being absorbed by the isopropyl.
For a spray bottle you can use an old commercial spray lube bottle or an old pump hair spray bottle that has been thoroughly cleaned. To apply the lube, spread the cases in a single layer on a clean surface like an oven tray (those disposable aluminum oven liner trays are great and prevent the wrath of your chef when it is discovered that the cookie trays were used) and lightly and evenly spray the cases. Allow the cases to sit for a couple of minutes, roll the cases around and lightly spray again. Wait until the alcohol has evaporated (about 5 minutes) and start sizing. Properly lubed cases will have a slightly greasy feel to them without feeling slimy.
Another neat idea for spraying the cases is to put them in a plastic bag, spray, and then mix the cases, dump out on some newspaper, and let dry. Less messy than putting the cases on an oven tray and less likely to get you in trouble with the head chef.
Thanks to Steve Dzupin for this tip.
One of the advantages of using sprayed on lanolin as a case lube is that, in the quantities used, any residual lube has no effect on powder or primers.
Solid "Wipe On" Lubes
You can also use plain anhydrous lanolin straight from the can (but not as conveniently) for sizing by putting a little bit on your fingers (just lightly rub your fingers across the lanolin) and then rubbing the cases. "Mink Oil," a refined lanolin leather preservative also works well as a case lube.
Many large drug stores have bulk anhydrous lanolin or they will order it for you, or you can order in it 4, 8, or 16 ounce containers, from Majestic Mountain Sage, 881 West 700 North Ste 107, Logan, Utah 84321, Phone: 435-755-0863, or online at: http://www.thesage.com/catalog/FixedOil.html#Lanolin, and from Select Oils at http://www.selectoils.com/item––Lanolin––SO-Lanolin.html.
Many people have reported that they have used a little bit of STP oil treatment on their fingers or commercial water based silicone cable pulling lube as a sizing lube.
If you are still using pads to roll your cases on for resizing you can simply use regular undyed dishwashing liquid. Reports are that it works as well as some commercial liquid case lubes. Simply put a very small amount on your pad and rub it in with your fingers. Roll your cases across the pad and resize.
Thanks to Denis Allen for this soap tip.