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Posted: 3/24/2009 11:39:30 AM EDT
| I ran into some crimped-primer-pocket brass while reloading last weekend. I used my deburring tool and just reamed out the pocket a little bit and the primers went in relatively easiliy. Is this a terrible idea? |
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IMHO…..DON'T USE THIS STYLE OF TOOL..........
www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=364181&t=11082005 Someone once asked: Why Not? A standard reamer/de-burr tool could be used but, your results will vary greatly. In my younger days I tried using it but, I encountered problems with getting squared cuts and sometimes over doing it. YMWV. Currently, I use these tools...... Large Primer Pocket Size #7777785 www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=682934 Small Primer Pocket Size #7777784 www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643126 With, the Lyman Hand tool I've eliminated those problems. It has a safe edge on the bottom.....it won't cut the pocket deeper. The cutter will simply spin, via hand power, cutting off the crimp. It'll leave a slight chamfer to the primer pocket opening. It will correct an undersized pocket and an "out of round" condition, but only to the limits of the tool's cutting edge, under hand power. The main pocket diameter won't (under most circumstances) be enlarged excessively, unless you force the tool to the sidewalls. And, the cutting edge can be dulled, IF you wanted to do that. It's a "hand tool" and I wouldn't mount it in a drill........but, that's ME. BTW, my Speer #10 Re-loading manual has a picture of a pocket knife being used to cut a military crimp out (page 71). And, for commercial cases, IF needed, the Lyman hand tool will also slightly "chamfer" the primer pocket opening that has that "sharp edge." And, while it's in there.....IF, the primer pocket is too small, it'll do it's magic for that problem, too. Then again, sometimes just changing your brand of primer can work. Perhaps, using the wrong tool and/or other misusage of a hand de-crimp reamer, may be the reason why, some people are so anti-reamer? You know the saying about using the right tool for the job? Well, IMHO......the right tool, is the one specially made for the job of addressing the crimp. In this case, I use a Lyman Hand military de-crimp reamer tool. Not to mention that, the learning curve is so short. Just insert the tool into the primer pocket, twist, remove the tool and it’s done. It’s the sort of a mindless operation, that I can do while watching T.V. IF, you choose the swage method (Dillon $94.95).........so be it. YMWV. Aloha, Mark |
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If you are reloading 100 cases at a time than you can use a Lyman Primer Pocket Reamer and you will be frustrated to no end. Take my 20 years of reloading advise either:
A. Buy Commercial brass Only B. Buy the press mounted primer pocket reamer by CH Manufacturing/Reloading. Forget RCBS' solution C. If you are a volume reloader than spend the money and get a Dillon Precision Super Swagger 600. You will be able to ream 300-400 cases per hour. The time you save will allow you to do meaningful things in addition to reloading like having sex!! 
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This is the only tool I have EVER used(mine was RCBS but the same design) to remove the crimp since I started loading for my AR in '95-'96, and there is absolutley nothing wrong with using it for that purpose. I have used it on several thousand pieces of crimped military brass and for the life of me don't understand why more people don't use this method. A couple twists and you're done, it was free with my RockChuck kit. Makes a fine lead-in for the primer 
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Quoted:
If you are reloading 100 cases at a time than you can use a Lyman Primer Pocket Reamer and you will be frustrated to no end. Take my 20 years of reloading advise either: A. Buy Commercial brass Only B. Buy the press mounted primer pocket reamer by CH Manufacturing/Reloading. Forget RCBS' solution C. If you are a volume reloader than spend the money and get a Dillon Precision Super Swagger 600. You will be able to ream 300-400 cases per hour. The time you save will allow you to do meaningful things in addition to reloading like having sex!! If you're talking the swager,, DON'T. It uses a regular shell holder, and with the pressure used, will bend the rim of the case. 'Borg |
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Quoted:
I ran into some crimped-primer-pocket brass while reloading last weekend. I used my LEE deburring tool and just reamed out the pocket a little bit and the primers went in relatively easiliy. Is this a terrible idea? No, it's not. I've used a number of tools or combination of tools over the years and the deburring tool is one of them. But I've done so many thousands of primer crimps I'm sick of it and MUCH prefer to spend extra $$ for commercial or processed USGI brass. Occaisonally I'll stll do some crimps, usually from CMP ammo I've shot, so I still keep the tools around. One useless tool is the RCBS pocket swager.  As previously mentioned the Lyman gets tough on the hands after awhile. The two tools I rely now are a short, stubby knife and the LEE deburring tool.
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Quoted:
The Lyman works...but is a bit hard on the hands if you have many to do. I'm looking for a inexpensive, less strenuous method. I think it's getting dull after only 50 or so cases, as well. There's no way it should be getting dull after 50 cases...or 500, or more. Brass is very soft compared to tool steel. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
The Lyman works...but is a bit hard on the hands if you have many to do. I'm looking for a inexpensive, less strenuous method. I think it's getting dull after only 50 or so cases, as well. There's no way it should be getting dull after 50 cases...or 500, or more. Brass is very soft compared to tool steel. they are not getting dull. The tiny cutting edges on the lyman seem to clog with brass relatively easy. I cant stand the thing. I use a RCBS swager for large batches. If I run into 2 or 3 that need the crimp removed, I use my Wilson deburring tool similar to the one shown above. |
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