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Posted: 3/17/2009 6:48:46 AM EDT
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i am looking for advice on reloading equipment. i have never reloaded, and am wanting to buy the basics to get started rolling my own. eventually it would be nice to reload for most of the current calibers i own but i am really most interested in 10mm, .223, and 308 to get started.
i would guess right now i shoot 3-4 k rounds per year of various ammo so i am not looking for super duper capacity. i do prefer to buy quality items where deemed necessary and possibly have the ability to enhance capacity or quality issues with add-ons or up grades as needed. is there a good quality basic kit to look for? or... rather than a kit is it better to pick up pieces individually? also please recommend some fundamental must have literature for reloading. some links would be nice if it is possible 
thanks 41 |
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Here's the BEST resource for ALL the information you need:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/forum.html?b=6&f=42 At the top of the page! |
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I think this is the best starter kit available
RCBS Starter Kit |
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Quoted:
Another good set up is the Lee classic turret. Works on rifle and pistol. You can have it auto index or disable it and use it as a single stage. It's real good and pretty cheap in price. +1 i had one of these when they first came out years ago......never had a problem with it. gave it to a friend to help get him started, since i had upgraded to progressives |
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OP, I'd suggest looking at this:
Lee Hand Press 1. It is inexpensive and lets you get into the loading game for cheap. 2. The press is compact, you don't need a table, and you can bug out with it. 3. The press, the loading dies for all three calibers, and other tools will all fit in one ammo can along with your primers. Your cases, bullets, and powders can be tucked into a second ammo can. Great for your bug out kit, etc. If you find you like it, you can get more elaborate presses (which must be fastened to some kind of work bench or loading table). But even then, the dies you use in the Lee Hand Press will be usable in your more elaborate loading gear... |
| Both RCBS and Lyman have starter kits- the Lyman kits have a few more items than the RCBS and offer either a single stage press or the turret one. Look at Midway, Grafs,or Natchez Shooters Supply. The Lyman manual is a good basic manual but get several, especially the one(s) put out by the bullet manufacturer you are going to use.The Hogden Powder one is good too. |
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thanks for the help. i took the first step by joining ar15 this morning. should have done it a year ago. i don't post a lot but i have spent many hours here reading. i will get a few manuals headed this way as well as trying to find someone close by that might show me how their equipment works and some of the processes involved. i hope to be ready to purchase items by early summer.
thanks again. |
| I am getting into reloading also and have been doing alot of reading asking questions, etc... First thing I would like to say is the reloading sticky still leaves alot to be desired. It talks about progressive reloader but not single stage. Also each reloading press has a plus or minus that some might also want to know. Reloading dies are another example, why not take a little time guys and teach the newbies like my self what one die has over another brand. Hornady verse lee verse forest. Not getting into what everyone likes but trying to let people know, what the differences are. reading about dies, some need lube, some do not, some are made of different materials. Some have a feature in the die to adjust internally like the Hornady that would be forgiving to a brand new reloader, not having the shell correctly placed on the die. Not trying to bash any one but there are alot of differences in equipment. Share it with us, sorry it's not in the sticky. Thanks |
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Try.........
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=263380 Aloha, Mark |
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SPENDING MONEY ON YOUR FIRST SINGLE STAGE PRESS.
OK.....so, I've been thinking (dangerous).
Assuming, that I'd want more safety than just dipping powder and I'd like to expand someday to more than just one caliber. What would I do IF I had a limited budget? So........the Classic LEE Loader ($23.39). It can only be use with one caliber. It will only neck size cases, it's slow and I'll need to get a scale (for more safety) and I'll need a better way to handle powder. Anyway, I'll pass. Then, the Lee Hand Press Kit #90179 ($34.95).........it's a little better. Though I'd prefer a bench mounted press for ease of use. And, I would still have to buy dies ($22.59), powder handling equipment (scale and measure/hopper), and brass trimming equipment. I had one, once.......what a PIA. IMHO, bench mounted is the way to go. Hmmm........so, maybe the Lee Reloader Press w/ free manual #90700 ($27.79)..........well, it's a bench mounted "C" press and that's OK. But I'll still need dies ($22.59), a scale ($24.99) and powder measure/hopper ($23.39). Then, a primer tool ($10.19) and brass trimming tools ($5.39 cutter/holder & $4.59 length gauge). But, I'm already up to $118.93 and still short some small items. Next up........the Lee Breech Lock Press 50th Anniversary Kit #90050 ($88.99).......it's a standard press and it comes with a scale, powder measure/hopper, primer seater tool, plus a few extras. Sounds like everything except for the dies ($22.59) and brass trimming case length gauge ($4.59). Total $116.17 w/o shipping. Or, the kit that I prefer........the Lee Breech Lock Press Challenger Kit #90030 ($100.79).......it's just like the 50th Anniversary Kit but it has a separate hand primer tool w/ a variety of shell holders. Then, I'll need to add dies ($22.59) and brass trimming case length gauge ($4.59). Total $127.97 w/o shipping. I could add a LEE manual ($12.99) or I could just use the supplied data sheet that comes with the LEE dies. BTW, LEE prices vary, so shop around. And, I'm not mentioning where I saw these prices (as of 12-5-08) because, the seller was "out of stock" on some of the items mentioned. And, there is always USED equipment. HTH. Aloha, Mark PS…….I picked LEE for this example, only because, they make good inexpensive products. It's not meant as an endorsement over any of the other brand(s) out there in the market. SPENDING MONEY ON DIES. For straight walled pistol cases (i.e. .45 ACP, .38 Special/.357 Mag., 9mm, etc.....) just buy the Carbide three die set from any of the major mfns. A carbide re-sizing die will speed things up, as you can skip the lube/de-lube steps. Carbide sets aren't usually available for bottle necked cases. But, if and when they are........they are expensive. IMHO.......for an AR or M1A or M1 (or any semi auto rifle)......just get whatever major brand (RCBS, Redding, Hornady, LEE, etc…..) of F/L re-sizer two die set.
The differences in the brands, are in the little features. Like perhaps: how the de-capper stem is a separate piece, easily obtainable or not. The construction of: the expander button, lock rings, bullet seater stem, etc....... For some folks, the little things make a big difference, for others not so much. Here is the line up of LEE rifle die sets.......... http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1226206525.3862=/html/catalog/dies-rifle.html And, use a gauge to check your re-sized brass. http://www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store IF, you still run into trouble with your re-sized brass, consider a SB re-sizer die. BTW........most all the major brands (I can't say all, cause I don't own all the brands) when adjusted correctly, will give you: no crimp, a little crimp or a little more crimp. That's good enough for ME anyway. IF you want the LEE FCD then just pony up a little more $ and get it. Or just start by buying the LEE three die set, which includes it. IMHO……..you won't be making a major mistake by buying any of the major brands. Yes, there is always someone with a horror story. But, if a company continued to make c%@* they wouldn't stay in business very long. Q.C. issues can happen with most any manufactured item so, YMWV. Aloha, Mark PS.......How to adjust dies........ F/L re-sizing advice from Sinclair http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/02/19/setting-up-a-full-length-sizing-die/ ____________________________ Re-loading Die Adjustments http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm CRIMP A BULLET? The subject comes up, most every week. My canned answer........... To crimp or not? www.scidetroit.com/bulletseating.htm –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– Q. I bought a reloading die set and there’s a note with the dies that says something like, “Speer does not recommend using their bullets with these dies.” What’s the deal? A. Speer never made such a broad recommendation. Speer’s recommendation is: Do not apply a crimp to any bullet that does not have a crimp groove. The die company in question markets a die to produce a “factory crimp” and recommends it be used on any bullet. Speer’s tests, and those by another bullet maker and an independent gun writer, show that crimping a bullet that doesn’t have a crimp groove degrades group size by an average of 40 percent. Other than the crimp die, we have no problem with our bullets in that firm’s dies, although our preference is for RCBS® products. We express ours thanks to the die maker for allowing us to make contact with so many new SPEER customers. Taken from....... www.speer-bullets.com/default.asp?s1=5&s2=30 And……….. The military specs a crimp for the reasons of: Prevention of bullet set back. They don't want bullets that will telescope back into a case and cause a jam or overpressure condition. Not, to mention that the ammo goes through a lot of "abuse." Uniformity of ammunition is key to consistent functioning for a firearm (especially for semi auto and full auto use). ________________________________________________ For us "civilian shooters" it isn't written in stone, that you must or not, crimp. For a new re-loader.........may I suggest that.......... If the bullet has a cannelure.......then, crimp it in the groove. IF the bullet doesn't........then, just use enough neck tension. "Enough," so that the bullet isn't damaged by seating and/or crimping and doesn't telescope back into the case (or fall out). Once you have more experience.........do what you like. And, try experimenting a little with COAL. Just my .02. Aloha, Mark REMOVING A PRIMER CRIMP. Try this (about $10)........
Large Primer Pocket Size #7777785 www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=682934 Small Primer Pocket Size #7777784 www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643126 You know the saying about using the right tool for the job? Well, IMHO......the right tool, is the one specially made for the job of addressing the crimp. In this case, I use a Lyman Hand military de-crimp reamer tool. Not to mention that, the learning curve is so short. Just insert the tool into the primer pocket, twist, remove the tool and it’s done. It’s the sort of a mindless operation, that I can do while watching T.V. IF, you choose the swage method.........so be it. The Dillon swage runs about $95. YMWV. Aloha, Mark MILITARY/MAGNUM PRIMERS IN SEMI-AUTO FIREARMS. This sort of question(s) about military primers in semi-auto firearms comes up often........
CCI® No. 34 and No. 41 MILITARY RIFLE PRIMERS Military-style semi-auto rifles seldom have firing pin retraction springs. If care is not used in assembling ammunition, a “slam-fire” can occur before the bolt locks. The military arsenals accomplish this using different techniques and components—including different primer sensitivity specifications—from their commercial counterparts. CCI makes rifle primers for commercial sale that matches military sensitivity specs that reduce the chance of a slam-fire when other factors go out of control*. If you’re reloading for a military semi-auto, look to CCI Military primers. *Effective slam-fire prevention requires more than special primers. Headspace, chamber condition, firing pin shape and protrusion, bolt velocity, cartridge case condition, and other factors can affect slam-fire potential. My red added. Some re-loaders have been convinced that it's a, "must have." Others are fine with the primers they've been using for years and have learned to accept a certain amount of, "risk." Hey, NOTHING is perfect. Your re-loads and techniques differ as well as your rifles. YMWV. _______________________ Anytime, you don't exactly follow what THE BOOK says.......you take a chance. And, you'll note that most books will specify what brand of: brass, primers, bullets, powder (and weight)......not to mention what brand of firearm they used........to OK their load data. Standard advice.....when starting a new load......start low and work your way up. And, bolt gun ammo or load data isn't always O.K. w/ a semi auto (example: M1 Garand data is special). FWIW........most re-loaders will not just "pick one" from a book and expect, "the best results." They work up their loads, for their rifle......cause they know, "YMWV." _______________________ Please carefully check what is said on an internet forum page......against published manuals.......you never KNOW when someone is gonna #&%$ with you. Especially, with LOAD DATA. _______________________ Just making a "minor change" can have an unwanted affect.....maybe even to the point of being DANGEROUS. Read: How do changing various components affect chamber pressure and velocity? www.frfrogspad.com/miscelld.htm#components _______________________ Remember, like most everything......YOUR MILEAGE WILL VARY. There are many other products, loads, and ways to skin a cat......this was only my advice. Which you got for FREE. _______________________ Aloha, Mark TUMBLING LOADED AMMO http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=42&t=270429&page=1 HTH. Aloha, Mark |
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I got the Lee Classic Cast. I think it is probably one of the best values. I payed around $70. You can prime on it, which I do. It accepts lee dies and other dies. With an adapter kit, it can be used to prime 50BMG. It isn't fast, but it is a solid piece of equipment. PS. I deprimed about 200 rounds with it before I mounted it.... It can be used as a hand press, although it is rather large and clumsy in that role. |
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Lee Classic Turret is, IMO, the best balance of speed and value. Plus, you can always disable the turret/auto-index when starting out.
A traditional single stage would kill me with tedium. Oh, and get a Possum Hollw Kwick Case Trimmer for .223 or .308 if you plan on reloading those calibers. Absolute godsend for trimming. |
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I've finally found a single web site with pics of the various mfn's dies...........
RCBS......... http://www.gswagner.com/bigreloading/dies/dies.html Other Brands http://www.gswagner.com/bigreloading/dies/dies2.html _________________ You decide...........what you think, is the best for you. HTH. Aloha, Mark |
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