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2/26/2009 2:33:47 PM EDT
Not exactly high but not normal either.  LC brass swaged with a Dillon Super Swage, pocket made uniform with a Hornady primer pocket reamer in a drill.   Primer pockets look normal.  CCI 400 Small Rifle Primers seat slightly high, not really flush with the case head.   Thank you for any suggestions.
2/26/2009 2:56:19 PM EDT
[#1]
What are you using to seat them?
2/26/2009 3:29:08 PM EDT
[#2]
Sorry that should have been the the first post.  Hornady L-n-L.
2/26/2009 3:39:54 PM EDT
[#3]
How deep did you cut the pockets?
2/26/2009 3:43:57 PM EDT
[#4]
The tool cuts to a set depth.  I may be onto something with the adjustment of the pawl to ensure the primer is centered in the primer pocket before the ram comes up.  More adjusting to come.
2/26/2009 8:33:35 PM EDT
[#5]
The Hornaday primer pocket reamer, is that a uniformer or a crimp removal tool?

With a primer pocket uniformer the bottom of the primer pockets will be cut flat with square corners.

Primers then should seat below case head.
2/26/2009 8:37:29 PM EDT
[#6]
From the Speer manual..........



Repriming is a simple, but critical, step that reloaders often do not give enough attention to. In order to gain optimum primer sensitivity, it must be seated firmly to the bottom of the primer pocket. But this doesn't mean using so much force that the primer cup is deformed. When primers are properly seated, the top of the primer is from .005" to .008" below flush with the case head. The purpose of this is to assure that the primer anvil legs are in firm contact with the bottom of the primer pocket. If they are not so seated, it requires an average of 59% greater firing pin blow to give reliable ignition. This much extra force simply isn't available in many firearms.

Analysis of hundreds of handload misfires complaints show that the vast majority are caused by insufficient primer seating.



You can check............by running your finger along the bottoms of your cases. You'll learn the "feel of the primers" as they should be seated below flush.

Again from the SPEER manual........


If, after completing the reloading operation, you discover some rounds with high primers, do not attempt to reseat the primer in a loaded round. To do so is extremely hazardous! The chance of a primer firing during proper seating is extremely remote. Yet, if it does, it will ignite the powder in the case and you have a home-made "grenade" right before you.

If high primers are discovered, remove both bullet and powder charge from the case before attempting to reseat the primer! There is no safe alternative.



HTH.

Aloha, Mark

2/26/2009 8:39:47 PM EDT
[#7]
The standard primer pocket reamer does not cut a pocket deeper.

Example:  Large Primer Pocket Size #7777785

www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=682934  

Small Primer Pocket Size #7777784

www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=643126

There is another special tool to cut a pocket deeper.

Example:  Phase II Primer Pocket Uniformer

http://www.snipercountry.com/SinclairReloading.html

Aloha, Mark




2/26/2009 9:32:44 PM EDT
[#8]
Either the nut that holds the punch is loose, stopping the ram before it bottoms out,, or you aren't pushing the ram all the way back/down.
'Borg
2/27/2009 6:17:01 AM EDT
[#9]
That give me plenty to work with.  Thank you for all the good advice.  You guys are the best.
2/27/2009 8:17:18 AM EDT
[#10]
I have had certain lots of brass that when combined with certain primer brands were a bit high.  I use a Sinclair primer pocket uniformer to cut all my primer pockets to uniform SAAMI depth and give the pocket a nice flat bottom for better seating.  This is not an expensive investment at $23.50, and just chucks in your cordless drill and has an automatic stop built in so I highly recommend getting one.  It also cleans the primer pocket at the same time and only needs to be used once.
See: Sinclair Primer Pocket Uniformer
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