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Posted: 9/8/2008 6:53:40 AM EDT
| I purchased some 55 grain nato ammo from Bosnia a while back from cheaperthandirt.com in a 200 rd sealed pack. It is marked as 5.56 on the case and I was thinking about reloading them. I have heard that you load the 5.56 cases different than you do a .223 case, because of apparently different case walls. What I am wondering is if this is good brass to load for an AR and also what tools I am going to need in order to do this. I have a 12 gauge shell loader but thats about all the reloading I am familiar with. If you all could tell me if these cases are good ones to reload and let me know what the exact list of tools I will need to do this, that would be great. |
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Huh???? Brass (in the case of .223 Rem or 5.56mm) is brass. Military brass is "said" to be thicker and thus have less case capacity than commercial brass.........mostly that statement refers to 7.62 NATO brass (and military .30-06 brass). "Less case capacity," means that your load data might need an adjustment. Your re-loading manual will usually tell you IF they used military or commercial brass to test their load data. BUT, in .223 Rem. and 5.56 mm it isn't always true. The brass is usually quite close in weight, be it commercial or military brass. So.......bottom line.........run the cases (.223 Rem or 5.56mm) through your F/L sizer and go for it. IF you have to deal with the military primer crimp..........so be it. Aloha, Mark PS.......BTW, do you KNOW about Boxer vs Berdan primers? |
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To begin on a path to re-loading. My suggestions would be to........... Get a hold of some books (or check the Internet) about re-loading and READ. Invest in a re-loading manual (or several). Get a mentor and/or go to classes that might be held by the local gun shop or gun club. LEARN the processes that one must go through in order to produce a round of ammunition. Get an idea of how certain jobs are done and take notes of the choices available to do the job. The list will be individual to the person. Buy the equipment needed to accomplish the job, at a price that YOU can afford. More than likely, there will be some amount of compromise involved. ________________________________________________ As a "first press" I'd get a single station. I'd LEARN the techniques and "problem solving" of re-loading. Then, IF/WHEN, I wanted more production......I'd consider a progressive press. Forgive me for saying........and please, "SOME OF YOU OUT THERE"..........don't take offense. But, some folks just can't walk and chew gum at the same time. For some it's: "Learn to crawl before you walk, learn to walk before you run, learn to run before you drive or fly." Some, are smart enough to start with a Dillon and be happy. Some, come running to this forum. Asking for help with their Dillon problems, that maybe IF they had learned on a single station press, they would KNOW HOW to fix the problem. And, I'm not saying that it's BAD TO ASK for help. BTW, it's not only Dillon progressive owners. Either way.........YOU GOT TO KNOW YOUR LIMITATIONS. ________________________________________________ Say, you're re-loading military 5.56mm brass cases for your AR with a single station press........ Re-loading manual. (or several manuals) A Press. F/L Sizer Two Die set. (or 3 die set) Shell holder. A way to clean dirty cases. (liquid cleaner or tumbler/vibratory machine w/ media or a wipe down w/rag). A way to de-prime military cases. (regular die or universal de-capper or hammer and anvil method) A way to de-crimp military cases. (swage or ream). A way to prime cases. (on press or off press) A way to lube cases. (what lube and applied w/fingers or pad with lube or spray lube) A way to test your re-sized cases. (case gauge or actual rifle chamber) Caliper (though, not absolutely needed if you use a case gauge). A way to trim cases. (hand powered or motorized) A case de-bur/chamfer tool, if your trimmer didn't do it all in one pass. A way to measure out and dispense powder. (dippers or disk measure or hopper/dispenser) A way to weigh the powder. (electronic or balance beam scale) Powder. Primers. Bullets. And cartridge cases. I feel that these basic tools and components will do, for simple ammunition production. Note that: The list above can be shortened or lengthened. Remember, there is more than one way to skin a cat. There are many other tools that one can purchase to do other specific jobs. It's up to YOU to choose which tools you need and which tools you want. Some tools are there to make a job simpler and some are there to hopefully make you "better" ammunition..........though, was the purchase absolutely necessary? Choose wisely. ________________________________________________ IF you're looking to go cheap (not a bad "cheap")..........IMHO, consider, "LEE." For dies.......use any brand (from a major mfn) that you like. They are basically, all of high quality. The differences are in the, "features and small parts." LEE makes good dies (and they give you a bonus: a shell holder and powder dipper w/load data chart). When re-loading bottle neck cases (.223/5.56mm) to be used in a semi auto, IMHO, buy the FULL LENGTH re-sizer, two die set. Generally, you don't need a SB die set (unless you run into trouble). IF, you want the LEE FCD they also have a three die set that includes it, for a little extra. When re-loading for straight walled pistol cases (9mm, 45 ACP, .38 Special, etc...), IMHO, buy the carbide, three die set. The carbide re-sizer will eliminate the need to lube cases. And, IF you want the LEE FCD, I believe that LEE has a four die set, for most of the popular calibers. _______________________________________________ ASSUMING, that you purchase a single stage press. Basically (For non-crimped primer pocket, rifle brass, say a batch "lot" of a 100 cases): 1) Inspect and clean the cases- a liquid bath in hot water and dish soap, will get them clean. Though, not shiny. Or, you could just wipe the cases off with a solvent dampened rag. IF you want, clean with some shine……Birchwood Casey Case Cleaning Solution (#33845 CCI) is a fast and cheap way. Mix with water (follow the directions on the package) soak the brass, drain and dry. Save the solution as it can be re-used. 2) Set up your press with the shell holder and de-capper/FL re-sizer die. 3) Lube the cases. LEE lube (#90006) can be applied with fingers. Or, buy a spray on lube from one of the "other brands." 4) Then, run some test cases through the die, it'll de-cap/re-size the brass in one pass. 5) Next, using a case gauge, check the brass to ensure that the proper re-size, has been achieved. Insert a case into the case gauge. The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace. While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on). IF, it’s not the “correct size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed. *IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge is a case gauge. There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads. I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson or Dillon case gauges are also popular choices). Examples of various gauges…….. www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store 6) When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot. 7) Trimming brass. Remember the case gauge? Well, if your brass failed the gauge test, you will need to trim the brass. Or check the brass length with a caliper. The cheapest way to trim brass, is with the LEE case trimmer. You'll need the cutter & lock stub and shell holder & case length gauge tools. The assembled trimmer runs on hand power or with a drill. Once the trimming is done, use a chamfer/reamer tool (LEE #90109) to "knock off the edge" on the newly cut case necks. 8) Clean the brass to take off the lube.......repeat, Step #1. 9) Then, re-prime the cases with a new primer. The LEE auto prime hand tool makes fast work of this job. BTW, you'll need a special shell holder (not your reg. press shell holder) made especially for the LEE auto prime. OR........use your press mounted primer tool. 10) After the cases have been re-primed, place the cases in a loading block. 11) Using a simple powder measure, calibrate it to throw the weight of powder charge that you want. 12) Check the thrown weight with your scale. 13) When you're satisfied that the weight is "correct." Charge each of the cases with powder. 14) Next, remove the de-capper/re-sizer die from the press and replace it with the bullet seating die. Then, place the bullet on top of the opening of the case neck. Run the case w/bullet into the bullet seating die. 15) Inspect your rounds. You're done. ______________________________________________ Since you have military cases, I assume the primers are crimped. So, add these steps........... 2) With once fired military brass, this next step only has to be done once. You could de-cap primers with the standard de-cap/re-sizer die. Though due to the primer crimp, there is a high incidence of parts breakage. IMHO, de-cap the once fired military brass using either, a “universal” de-capper die or with a skinny nail/punch and anvil (with a hole in it, large enough for the old primer to fall out of, but still support the case rim). Or, buy the LEE military primer de-capper set (#90102-.30 cal., #90103-.22 cal.). Simply, run the nail/punch down through the case neck. The nail will enter the flash hole and rest against the old primer. Put the case on the anvil (old primer centered over the anvil’s hole). Then, with a hammer knock out the old primer, letting the old primer fall through the hole in the anvil. Yes, the military crimp is sometimes that stubborn. 3) Again, since we’re using once fired military brass, this next step has to be done only once. The primer crimp will need to be removed. The crimp gets either swaged or reamed/cut. My friend has a Dillon swage and I use a Lyman hand reamer/cutting tool. Both can do the job......one is cheaper. Lyman hand reamer (#7777785 Large, #7777784 Small). I do the crimp removal while watching TV. It's as simple as: pick up a case, insert the tool into the primer pocket and twist, remove case, next..... *Commercial cases, usually don't have a primer crimp to bother with. So, steps 2 and 3 can be omitted. Likewise, for the next time you load these “already treated” military cases. ________________________________________________ To adjust dies correctly.......see the link……. www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm _______________________________________________ There are many LEE single station presses to choose from. www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/classic.html www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/rlpress1.html If you're in the market for a "kit." I like this one. www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/rlpress2.html#breech ________________________________________________ IMHO, a good compromise between a single station and a progressive is a Turret Press........ www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/browse.cgi?1217810820.1709=/html/catalog/turretpress.html ________________________________________________ NOTE: There are many ways to skin a cat. I tried to write this, keeping in mind a CHEAP WAY to do things. Thus, the choice of LEE products. That being said, a good press will last a lifetime and then some. Be it a LEE or RCBS or whatever other brand. I bought a lot of my starter equipment, USED. And, I still have a lot of it. My first press was a used RCBS Jr. and I later traded it for a used RCBS Rock Chucker. My friend wanted a smaller press and it was a straight across trade. So, how could I refuse? Anyway, after a long time of using a single station press…………I up-graded. I bought a Dillon. Then later, three LEE M1000 presses (just for pistol calibers). Even after I got the progressive presses........well, just say that for ME, there will always be a job for the single station press on my bench. And, even IF (and/or WHEN) you get a progressive........you don't really gain that much IF you're re-loading bottle necked cases. BECAUSE, of the case prep steps (case lube, military primer crimps and trimming cases). However, the progressive press will REALLY SHINE when you're doing straight walled cases with carbide dies. _________________________________________________ Aloha, Mark |
| Thank you so much for your information, and I will plan on getting a reloading manual so I will have an even better understanding of reloading this stuff. As to what primers the cases used, I am not sure, but I could assume whatever is common for this type of ammunition. What is the difference between the primers? Also, what should I look at for a good used reloading press? I was thinking about using Lee because of cost, considering it would be my first press. |
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As to what primers the cases used, I am not sure, but I could assume whatever is common for this type of ammunition. What is the difference between the primers? These are the four common Boxer primer type/sizes used to re-load metalic cartruidges: Large Pistol Small Pistol Large Rifle Small Rilfe Then, add the special purpose primers....... Match or Bench Rest Magnum ________________________________________________ Then some folks will say to use only Magnum or "Military Spec." primers for your semi-auto floating firing pin firearms. And, some will say that they have used standard primers w/o a problem. Good advice: Follow your re-loading manual's recommendation. *Some powders are spec'ed with magnum primers. And, some mfns will say to use only a certain primer with higher pressure rounds (such as: .223 Rem./5.56 mm) This is America.......you're free to choose the RISK level that you're comfortable with. Also, what should I look at for a good used reloading press? I was thinking about using Lee because of cost, considering it would be my first press. Most presses (from the major mfns) last a long time. But, beware of "cracks" and "mis-alignment." As for NEW: LEE has a line of presses that is attractive to any budget. And, note that buying from the LEE site is at retail prices. Shop around.  My first press was a used RCBS Jr. I saw a couple of used RCBS Jr. presses at the last gun show going for $40. The RCBS Rockchuckers were going for about $85. Come to think of it.......used LEE presses weren't around. Maybe, that says something? Aloha, Mark |
| Haven't visited this site for a while, so I'm probably a little late for this reply. Anyway, if the headstamp on your brass is "IK", then it's Igman brass. I have had no issues with this ammo other than it's a little on the dirty side. It reloads just fine, however, it's a pain in the ass to prep after shooting for the first time. The flash hole is really small, so you'll have to decap by hand with something smaller than the standard decapping pin, and then have to drill the hole up. After decapping, look at the flash hole. Sometimes the hole is way off-center, and I'd just throw those out. |
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