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Posted: 2/23/2011 7:01:56 AM EDT
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Works fine and snaps on Safe and "E" but when placed on Fire the selector comes loose. No set screw yet but I don't think that will help much.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture098.jpg http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture097.jpg |
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I had thought you had to use the selector off the GSG for the mod? Never mind, I thought you were doing the lower mod Yes, I am doing the SEF lower mod complete with the genuine HK selector. I finally got it just right, after cutting some more near the set screw's travel line. Pain in the ass mod but sure looks and feels more like a real MP5.I reinforced the ultra light ICS lower with epoxy and closed all those holes inside the trigger housing. I've got a classic army all metal grip plate plus the all metal selector; making the weapon feel heavy around the rear. Pics forthcoming. Took a lot of time in the garage but well worth it! 
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I had thought you had to use the selector off the GSG for the mod? Never mind, I thought you were doing the lower mod Yes, I am doing the SEF lower mod complete with the genuine HK selector. I finally got it just right, after cutting some more near the set screw's travel line. Pain in the ass mod but sure looks and feels more like a real MP5.I reinforced the ultra light ICS lower with epoxy and closed all those holes inside the trigger housing. I've got a classic army all metal grip plate plus the all metal selector; making the weapon feel heavy around the rear. Pics forthcoming. Took a lot of time in the garage but well worth it! SEF selector mod makes the gsg a truly bad-ass looking gun, it's not easy to do, but it's fun and a good challenge great idea on the epoxy, hadn't thought of that, please post pics and details |
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I had thought you had to use the selector off the GSG for the mod? Never mind, I thought you were doing the lower mod Yes, I am doing the SEF lower mod complete with the genuine HK selector. I finally got it just right, after cutting some more near the set screw's travel line. Pain in the ass mod but sure looks and feels more like a real MP5.I reinforced the ultra light ICS lower with epoxy and closed all those holes inside the trigger housing. I've got a classic army all metal grip plate plus the all metal selector; making the weapon feel heavy around the rear. Pics forthcoming. Took a lot of time in the garage but well worth it! And please tell us more about this. |
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The good thing about this mod is that you pick up little tricks as you go. I am more than willing to share my tips & tricks with my fellow GSG-5 owners. Here is a teaser (promise I'll post more detailed pics later)
This fits the ICS lower -with a slight gap around the edges- and adds some weight to the lower as well. I filled the thin gap with black silicone sealer. The sealer adheres to the cap, so you don't have to worry about it sticking. The holes line up perfectly. One side is lower than the other just add a washer to the low side to level the cap. You provide the screws. http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/322.gif http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-322-mp5-metal-motor-plate-by-classic-army.aspx Now for the holes in the ICS trigger housing (which I never liked when I saw all those holes where the trigger pack screws in). If there is a weak point in the ICS lower, that's it. I marked the area where the trigger pack screw lines up with the lower. I used a straw since it is the same diameter as the hole of the lower housing. I poured the epoxy around the straw filling all the holes (remove the trigger pack prior to epoxy use). The epoxy dries and sets in 24 hours. The straw will be stiffer than a morning hard on. Don't panic! Cut it as far down as you can. Use a small dremel sanding disk to sand away the excess epoxy. The straw will shred in pieces as you sand. Get it nice and level. The only thing left will be the hole where the straw was. If you measured correctly, you will have one single hole for the trigger pack screw, and it will look like you are looking into the factory lower housing. I went as far as dying the inside of the pistol grip just to get everything back black again. http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/31SsGUzK3XL_SL500_AA300_.jpg |
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The good thing about this mod is that you pick up little tricks as you go. I am more than willing to share my tips & tricks with my fellow GSG-5 owners. Here is a teaser (promise I'll post more detailed pics later) This fits the ICS lower -with a slight gap around the edges- and adds some weight to the lower as well. I filled the thin gap with black silicone sealer. The sealer adheres to the cap, so you don't have to worry about it sticking. The holes line up perfectly. One side is lower than the other just add a washer to the low side to level the cap. You provide the screws. http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/322.gif http://www.trinityairsoft.com/p-322-mp5-metal-motor-plate-by-classic-army.aspx Now for the holes in the ICS trigger housing (which I never liked when I saw all those holes where the trigger pack screws in). If there is a weak point in the ICS lower, that's it. I marked the area where the trigger pack screw lines up with the lower. I used a straw since it is the same diameter as the hole of the lower housing. I poured the epoxy around the straw filling all the holes (remove the trigger pack prior to epoxy use). The epoxy dries and sets in 24 hours. The straw will be stiffer than a morning hard on. Don't panic! Cut it as far down as you can. Use a small dremel sanding disk to sand away the excess epoxy. The straw will shred in pieces as you sand. Get it nice and level. The only thing left will be the hole where the straw was. If you measured correctly, you will have one single hole for the trigger pack screw, and it will look like you are looking into the factory lower housing. I went as far as dying the inside of the pistol grip just to get everything back black again. http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/31SsGUzK3XL_SL500_AA300_.jpg thanks I'm getting one of those metal plates. Not sure I'm following you on the holes, my sef doesn't have any holes in it that I can see. Is that *inside* the lower? Can you send a pic? 
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Yes, Jason. Here's the pics from top and bottom:
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture071.jpg http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture072.jpg It's a little blurry, but you come out with a single hole for the trigger housing screw. Unlike the you tube video where the guy drills the hole even larger and what you wined up with it only the half of the screw securing the housing to the trigger pack. |
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Yes, Jason. Here's the pics from top and bottom: http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture071.jpg http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture072.jpg It's a little blurry, but you come out with a single hole for the trigger housing screw. Unlike the you tube video where the guy drills the hole even larger and what you wined up with it only the half of the screw securing the housing to the trigger pack. ah ok, I see it, great idea! |
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It Works!! Safe on E and S. I still need to send her for trigger work. That pull is too long.
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture105.jpg http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture107.jpg |
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It Works!! Safe on E and S. I still need to send her for trigger work. That pull is too long. http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture105.jpg http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/dd490/Doug_Cruz/Picture107.jpg you may want to drill your SEF selector holes a little bigger, you will get a more positive "click" when moving that ball bearing detent thing over them. |
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I can't find this ICS lower anywhere. Does the Classic Army lower work? Here you go... http://www.airsoftpost.com/type-lower-receiver-motor-housing-series-p-26123.html When I received mine, my first reaction was- this is not worth 30 dollars. 
Haha, thanks for the link. Is it that cheap/bad?? I read it felt better than the factory grip once installed |
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I can't find this ICS lower anywhere. Does the Classic Army lower work? Here you go... http://www.airsoftpost.com/type-lower-receiver-motor-housing-series-p-26123.html When I received mine, my first reaction was- this is not worth 30 dollars.
Haha, thanks for the link. Is it that cheap/bad?? I read it felt better than the factory grip once installed Feels better, and looks better; that's about it. The OEM housing is far better quality. The ICS SEF housing is way over priced. Pisses me off when you can buy a used genuine HK housing for a third of what a new air soft ICS housing. costs. If I had to do it over again, I would get a genuine HK lower (cost is $12 w/shipping) and make it fit. At least then you know you have a real gun part. I have spent over $200 on my SEF project. I am going to stick with the ICS housing at least for now. |
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I can't find this ICS lower anywhere. Does the Classic Army lower work? Here you go... http://www.airsoftpost.com/type-lower-receiver-motor-housing-series-p-26123.html When I received mine, my first reaction was- this is not worth 30 dollars.
Haha, thanks for the link. Is it that cheap/bad?? I read it felt better than the factory grip once installed Feels better, and looks better; that's about it. The OEM housing is far better quality. The ICS SEF housing is way over priced. Pisses me off when you can buy a used genuine HK housing for a third of what a new air soft ICS housing. costs. If I had to do it over again, I would get a genuine HK lower (cost is $12 w/shipping) and make it fit. At least then you know you have a real gun part. I have spent over $200 on my SEF project. I am going to stick with the ICS housing at least for now. $12 ain't bad even with more work. I'll search around for one of those too, thanks. Do you happen to have a source for those as well? |
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It Works!! Safe on E and S. I still need to send her for trigger work. That pull is too long. you may want to drill your SEF selector holes a little bigger, you will get a more positive "click" when moving that ball bearing detent thing over them. that is what i need to do....i think i found my combo just need to wait for my selector to come in |
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I can't find this ICS lower anywhere. Does the Classic Army lower work? Here you go... http://www.airsoftpost.com/type-lower-receiver-motor-housing-series-p-26123.html When I received mine, my first reaction was- this is not worth 30 dollars.
Haha, thanks for the link. Is it that cheap/bad?? I read it felt better than the factory grip once installed Feels better, and looks better; that's about it. The OEM housing is far better quality. The ICS SEF housing is way over priced. Pisses me off when you can buy a used genuine HK housing for a third of what a new air soft ICS housing. costs. If I had to do it over again, I would get a genuine HK lower (cost is $12 w/shipping) and make it fit. At least then you know you have a real gun part. I have spent over $200 on my SEF project. I am going to stick with the ICS housing at least for now. Do you happen to remember where you saw those? I'm thinking about picking one up to make it work, instead of the ics lower. I know I had read that the parts weren't compatible somewhere, but for $12, why not give it a shot. I wasn't going to do the mod, but I pulled a stupid move and drilled the rear hole for the stock pin too big. Rather than just replace with the stock part, I figured it's time to upgrade. Also, where did you get the selector, and could you describe what you did to it to make it work? *edit* Nevermind, I found what I was looking for. Looks like I may have to stick with the ICS lower. |
| Quite a project there. More involved modification of a weapon than I've ever done. Just what is the danger of drilling into the trigger housing? If I somehow mess up will ATI sell me a new one or is my weapon a pile of scrap metal at that point? Just a bit nervous about taking a drill press to my gun... |
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Quite a project there. More involved modification of a weapon than I've ever done. Just what is the danger of drilling into the trigger housing? If I somehow mess up will ATI sell me a new one or is my weapon a pile of scrap metal at that point? Just a bit nervous about taking a drill press to my gun... I believe the trigger housing is the registered part or what is considered the firearm part seeing that it has the serial number on it, I could be wrong. I'm sure someone wil come along and correct me if I am not right. Otherwise ATI, what say you |
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The right side upper shell is the reg. part. Drill your trigger and housing. If you mess it up, spend <35.00 with ATI and buy a new one It's only $35 to replace? ATI have a stie with all the spare parts or would I have to go back and forth in email with them if I need the thing? |
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The right side upper shell is the reg. part. Drill your trigger and housing. If you mess it up, spend <35.00 with ATI and buy a new one It's only $35 to replace? ATI have a stie with all the spare parts or would I have to go back and forth in email with them if I need the thing? Wondering the same thing! |
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What is that, the conversion kit? I didn't think that included any of the internals. No, not the conversion kit. Those are internal trigger parts bought separately with the OEM housing. Great. Where can I get a hold of that then? Call ATI parts department 9-5 eastern time @ 800-290-0065. It helps to have the part #'s you are requesting. You can find them by going to this forum @ http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=41&t=236712 scroll down to the parts diagram. Shipping is about $5. |
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Finally got around to doing this. I was somewhat worried, since I don't have a drill press in my workshop at the moment (it's next on the list of new hardware to get, but I have to actually build a new workbench to have space for it first.) Used a hand drill, first a cordless, then when the batteries on that thing proved too weak, switched to a corded drill (that had power to spare. Old AEG drills are insane, let me tell you...) I used progressively larger drill bits, three stages of them and then for the final bit switched to a round file. The file took quite a while to finish, but without a drill press I figured taking it slow was the way to go.
In the end I'm satisfied with the work at this point. The gun is safe on S and fires on E. It won't turn to F yet, but I believe this just will take more work on the safety. For now I'm planning to take it to the range as is, put a few hundred rounds through it to test for sure, then look at getting it to function on F just like it does on E afterwards. The weapon looks great though, it's really starting to have that A3 look I wanted when I bought it, and I wanted to say thanks to the people that invented this mod, and the people like Popcop who've answered all my questions so far. I appreciate all the help. 
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