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Posted: 10/18/2010 6:27:31 AM EDT
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So my buddy is moved to CA and wanted to dump some of his guns. It was 2 days before he had to move and was desperate so I got his GSG-5 and red dot for $100. He bought it brand new and I helped him shot the first 200 rounds though it and it worked perfectly, then he took it home cleaned it and put the upgrade screw kit and cocking lever buffer (both bought from rrages.com) in it and now it won't work right. He has more money than he knows what to do with and just didn't want to deal with it so now it's mine. This is my first gun in a looong time so it has me a bit lost.
So here is what it is doing. If you insert an empty mag, pull the cocking lever back and release it forward, pull the trigger once and there is a loud click like it decocked the trigger, pull the trigger again it goes back but no clicks. Now if you pull the cocking lever back and put it in the safety position (ejection port is open) then pull the trigger it lightly clicks everytime you pull the trigger like it should when it fires. So it seems backwards some how. I have taken the gun apart and reassembled per the gsg manual several times with the same result so I'm assuming he reassembled the trigger incorrectly somehow. |
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Quoted:
So my buddy is moved to CA and wanted to dump some of his guns. It was 2 days before he had to move and was desperate so I got his GSG-5 and red dot for $100. Can't help you with your issue, but he sold the one gun he didn't have to do any modifications on to bring into CA? 
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I said in the op that it had 200 rounds through it. So do you mean have I tried to shoot it since I bought it and it hasn't worked? Yes, did anyone try to shoot it after the mods or do you just BELIEVE it isn't working right based on sounds emanating from the gun? |
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Uh..dude. What you're describing is what happens when you have no ammo in the weapon. The louder 'clock' then nothing means you dry fired it and it's not cocked again. The softer 'clicking' when the bolt is in the safe position is the just the trigger spinning it's wheels.
Put some in a mag and go shoot...then tell us what it's doing... 
Jay |
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any rimfire fire arm should not be fired because in most cases the firing pin will hit and damage the outer face of the chamber area. Not true. In many cases, the firing pin is designed to not contact the barrel chamber face with travel limiters built in. All Rugers can be dry fired. Many other mfgrs also state that you can dry fire their rimfires. |
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Quoted:
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any rimfire fire arm should not be fired because in most cases the firing pin will hit and damage the outer face of the chamber area. Not true. In many cases, the firing pin is designed to not contact the barrel chamber face with travel limiters built in. All Rugers can be dry fired. Many other mfgrs also state that you can dry fire their rimfires. And you still shouldn't do it. Rimfires work by pinching the rim of the ( in this case ) 22 shell case between the firing pin and the chamber face. If there is no shell case many/most 22s will let the firing pin hit the chamber face. The end of the firing pin CAN fracture or bend or peen out if you dry fire it. Having said that my Marlin 22 has been dry fired thousands of times by an immature idiot ( me as a youngster ) with no ill effects. But I still wont dry fire a 22 unless it has a hammer block style safety, it's just a headache you don't need to hassle with. |
| Hey besides next time you take it shooting set up a paper bag on the bench to catch a bunch of it's shell casings and then you have all the dry fire protection you need just remember not to just pick up off the ground one time I thought I grabbed one of mine which it wasn't I had to use a cleaning rod to get it out but if it is from yours it will protect the chamber and firing pin by having the shell case to strike. Cheap and easy then no more worries. |
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