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Posted: 2/7/2010 1:37:46 PM EDT
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Finally got around to getting batteries for my camera. Specs: Usual screw mods, buffer, SEF lower with HK selector, collapsable stock, HK rear sight.
Note: rear stock push pin not in place, left it out to go back to my folder. Dummy Suppressor is a HK copy with a threaded insert. http://i572.photobucket.com/albums/ss165/CaliRN/GSG1895005.jpg |
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The selector is a headache. First you have to get more than one.... Using a micrometer, measure the depth from the outside of the plastic lower to the inside where it
contacts the trigger group. That is the amount of the selector that needs to be UNCUT. Then, take your selector, measure and cut. I used a dremel cut off wheel and cutit longer to hand fit. Then determine center and mark with a center punch. Drill a small home to determine that you are center. Measure factory selector rod diamter, measure again. Drill selector switch to this diameter + a few thousandths for epoxy. The selector shaft has a cut out that will alllow epoxy a place to sit. Heres the really hard part, and I am still not sure I have this right. You have to drill and tap a hole for a set screw (I used M3). This requires that you mock up how you want the selector to sit with the relationship of the flat cutout of the selector shaft. I did this for hours. Once you figure out where to place the set screw drill and tap. I had to use a carbide tool to cut down the outside of the selctor switch to allow me to get to the screw. Fit the set screw and make sure that it contacts the flat of the selector shaft. If it does, use a release agent on the shaft, inside of the plastic lower, and on the trigger group, also coat the set screw. Pour epoxy into the selector, push it on tight onto the shaft, tighten the set screw and then place it SELECTOR SIDE DOWN. This will help prevent the epoxy from running into the trigger group. Let it set up overnight. If you did everything right, and used a decent release agent (I use paste wax) the HK selector should pop off once your back out the set screw. Clean it up and you are done. I am unhappy about the gap betweent the lower and the bottom of the selector, but the detent works so I guess I will just have to live with it. CaliRN |
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The fake supressor drove me crazy for weeks. I read the post here on how to do it and figured there must be another way. Bought the airsoft three lug adapter and
it fit but the barrel was inside the can too far. Tried all kinds of things with the three lugs and they didnt work. Finally it dawned on me that aside of the cool factor I did not need a QD feature so took a piece of pipe, threaded it M16x1.0, epoxied it into the can, and screwed it into place. Took a bit of hand fitting to get the lettering to line up. I can't remember the diameter of the pipe, but I did have to turn it down a bit before I could thread it on. For those who don't want to do this, SWARFWORKS has an adapter here http://www.22tactical.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=581, it is the tenth post down the page. I tried to email him about it and got no results. Maybe you will have better luck. CaliRN CLARIFICATION: SWARFWORKS showed the adapter, but according to them it was not for sale, and is not available so please don't contact them regarding it. thanks, CaliRN 16 FEB 10 |
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I've got the tap and die holders...just didn't have the right sized die.
Thanks again for the info, looks like amazon uses the same place I found originally "victornet", but I feel safer through amazon. So, the 16x1 mated up exactly with the barrel housing threads? That's what I got when I measured it with my micrometer, but I wanna be sure. I may just buy the tap too so I have it, they have a package deal. |
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Hey guys, I went a different route as I did not really have access to getting a whole new piece threaded and machined to use the fake QD can.
Plus I am really lazy. I took the King Arms QD can and unscrewed the three prong adapter latch from the back. I lose that adapter with the way I did it but i think it still looks ok. 
I noticed that the diameter of the stock barrel shroud is just a bit smaller than the KA QD inner diameter so the wheels started to turn. 1. I cut the stock shroud about an inch from the threads and stuck it into the end of the KA QD can until the barrel was just past the end of the KA QD can end. 
2. I wrapped some blue painter's tape around the end of the barrel so it would be even in the middle of the KA QD can hole. 3. I JB Welded the stock threaded end into the KA QD shroud and waited 24 hours for it to dry. 4. Removed the tape from the barrel and went out to the range and enjoyed! 
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