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7/4/2008 8:40:21 AM EDT
the left side selector was annoying the hell out of me. it sat too "high". The right side was no issue as I never use it.
The lower like I said seemed too "slick" so I fixed both


OHHHH YAA SEF lower


Its a Classic Army lower that I hogged out the inside and then "bedded" the FCG in using JB Quick. I also cut off and epoxied in place the ass end off the factory lower. I installed a couple allen head screws to act as positive "stops" as there are no internal ones with the GSG-5. The left side selector was cut down to just the center and epoxied into the Classic Army selector in a more "natural" position .
I have some minor cosmetic work to do like fill in the slight gap where the serial number is but its not a real issue.



NOW it feels right and the selector is perfect. I also replaced all the pins with actual HK push pins I had floating around the garage.

If the images don't show let me know and I will fix them.
7/4/2008 8:55:28 AM EDT
[#1]
TEASE!!!!

Details!!!
7/4/2008 8:57:55 AM EDT
[#2]

Quoted:
TEASE!!!!

Details!!!


what details I did exactly like I said
7/4/2008 10:44:49 AM EDT
[#3]
LOL, I missed the text between the last 2 pics.............I guess I got too excited
7/4/2008 11:19:39 AM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
LOL, I missed the text between the last 2 pics.............I guess I got too excited


here, I will give you details anyway  

Just gut out the lower and leave only the panel inside the grip, it makes life easier. The CA lower will not sit as "high" as the factory one (the factory one is flush with the top of the serial number plate, the CA is about 1/8" lower) I marked on the upper the exact position of the FCG using the serial number plate as a reference as I knew it fit tight against the upper.

I measured where the notch needed for the serial number plate was and cut that out. Then I mocked it all up using the front and rear pin holes. when everything looked right I covered the FCG in electrical tape everywhere the JB Quick would touch and locked the upper in a vice upsidedown and put the FCG in using the reference marks I made.

Then I smeared the inside with JB quick and set it all up to cure with the rear endcap on and the front pin in place.

Once it was set I pulled it all apart and carefully used a butterknife to separate the FCG from the lower. Then I put it back in and function tested.

The CA lower does not have a pin hole, so the rear of the factory one was cut off shaped to lock into the CA lower and epoxied in place with everything together and the rear pin.

The left side factory selector was ground down till it was just the center. the CA selector was milled open and after a bunch of mocking up to be happy with the placement was superglued in place, removed and then filled with epoxy.

The right side one I removed the yellow dot, filled that with JB quick and cut a slot (carefully) with a Dremel cut off tool.
7/5/2008 6:42:05 AM EDT
[#5]
have any pics of the process?

EDIT: btw, very cool!
7/5/2008 7:46:01 AM EDT
[#6]
That looks AWESOME!......how much was the new lower?
7/5/2008 8:27:36 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
That looks AWESOME!......how much was the new lower?


like $10 off ebay

I didn't take pics while doing it as it started as a "just screwing around with the idea" and ended up doing it The only "hard part" was not noticing that the CA lower did not sit as high as the factory one and me trying to make it. When I slipped the lower without the FCG in and lined up the pin holes with the stock end cap on is when I say how it wanted to sit.

You could bed it using "real" bedding compound just make sure you mold releace/mask the crap out of it. The JB Quick worked just fine for this use.

I am temped to pick up a "real" SEF and see if that will work as well. I would also like a "real" right side selector but those are a little pricey for a chunk of metal.
7/5/2008 9:05:54 AM EDT
[#8]
i did this with an ICS SEF  lower but with much less work
7/5/2008 12:51:52 PM EDT
[#9]

Quoted:
i did this with an ICS SEF  lower but with much less work


pics?
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