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Posted: 6/21/2015 7:33:45 PM EDT
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Looking at getting a dragonfly2 and then saw they have one with zdp -189
I've heard good things about this steel, only downside really being sharpening I'm pretty new to blades but purchased this awhile back How hard would it be to sharpen and get a nice edge on it? |
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It would be easy - it comes shaving sharp out of the box! Because of the nature of a work sharp, it will have a tendency to convex the edge over time (i.e. the edge won't end up as a "straight" bevel) but that is OK... I'm not familiar with the intricate details of a work sharp as it is one of the few sharpening devices that I don't own or have something similar to! Based on my limited understanding of how it works, the main thing to be careful of is removing too much material as you sharpen. If you do, you will shorten the useful lifespan of the blade.
The first time that you use a work sharp on that blade, use the finest grit that they make and go gently... you are only trying to restore crazy sharpness to an already pretty sharp edge. The steel is very hard and holds an edge very well... you shouldn't need to sharpen it often unless you are cutting rocks... Sharpening theory >>> a work sharp is a power tool and as such, it's real strength is removing a lot (relatively speaking) of material from the edge... the only times I want to do this is when re-profiling an edge or when sharpening a really dull edge... otherwise, I use a strop, or a sharpening steel, or an extra fine single sharpmaker stone with light pressure when I an just trying to bring back a shaving sharp edge to a blade that is already reasonably sharp... In real world terms, I probably wouldn't recommend using a work sharp on a blade more than about once a year and use the other methods I mentioned here in between to maintain the edge between work sharp sessions... Just my 2 cents, YMMV! 
P.S.: I own a Dragonfly2 in British Racing Green (ZDP-189) too... great little knife! It lives in the band of my hat as a emergency backup blade (crappy photo below)...
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Quoted:
It would be easy - it comes shaving sharp out of the box! Because of the nature of a work sharp, it will have a tendency to convex the edge over time (i.e. the edge won't end up as a "straight" bevel) but that is OK... I'm not familiar with the intricate details of a work sharp as it is one of the few sharpening devices that I don't own or have something similar to! Based on my limited understanding of how it works, the main thing to be careful of is removing too much material as you sharpen. If you do, you will shorten the useful lifespan of the blade. The first time that you use a work sharp on that blade, use the finest grit that they make and go gently... you are only trying to restore crazy sharpness to an already pretty sharp edge. The steel is very hard and holds an edge very well... you shouldn't need to sharpen it often unless you are cutting rocks... Sharpening theory >>> a work sharp is a power tool and as such, it's real strength is removing a lot (relatively speaking) of material from the edge... the only times I want to do this is when re-profiling an edge or when sharpening a really dull edge... otherwise, I use a strop, or a sharpening steel, or an extra fine single sharpmaker stone with light pressure when I an just trying to bring back a shaving sharp edge to a blade that is already reasonably sharp... In real world terms, I probably wouldn't recommend using a work sharp on a blade more than about once a year and use the other methods I mentioned here in between to maintain the edge between work sharp sessions... Just my 2 cents, YMMV!
P.S.: I own a Dragonfly2 in British Racing Green (ZDP-189) too... great little knife! It lives in the band of my hat as a emergency backup knife (crappy photo below)...
http://www.newturfers.com/mwf/attach/76/578476/Dragonfly.JPG Good info! Which of those options would you recommend for "tuning" up this steel? |
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Quoted:
Good info! Which of those options would you recommend for "tuning" up this steel? Quoted:
Quoted:
It would be easy - it comes shaving sharp out of the box! Because of the nature of a work sharp, it will have a tendency to convex the edge over time (i.e. the edge won't end up as a "straight" bevel) but that is OK... I'm not familiar with the intricate details of a work sharp as it is one of the few sharpening devices that I don't own or have something similar to! Based on my limited understanding of how it works, the main thing to be careful of is removing too much material as you sharpen. If you do, you will shorten the useful lifespan of the blade. The first time that you use a work sharp on that blade, use the finest grit that they make and go gently... you are only trying to restore crazy sharpness to an already pretty sharp edge. The steel is very hard and holds an edge very well... you shouldn't need to sharpen it often unless you are cutting rocks... Sharpening theory >>> a work sharp is a power tool and as such, it's real strength is removing a lot (relatively speaking) of material from the edge... the only times I want to do this is when re-profiling an edge or when sharpening a really dull edge... otherwise, I use a strop, or a sharpening steel, or an extra fine single sharpmaker stone with light pressure when I an just trying to bring back a shaving sharp edge to a blade that is already reasonably sharp... In real world terms, I probably wouldn't recommend using a work sharp on a blade more than about once a year and use the other methods I mentioned here in between to maintain the edge between work sharp sessions... Just my 2 cents, YMMV!
P.S.: I own a Dragonfly2 in British Racing Green (ZDP-189) too... great little knife! It lives in the band of my hat as a emergency backup knife (crappy photo below)...
http://www.newturfers.com/mwf/attach/76/578476/Dragonfly.JPG Good info! Which of those options would you recommend for "tuning" up this steel? Because they remove so little steel, use whichever one you like best or is easiest for you or you are most comfortable with... if you don't like the results, try another (personally, I like the extra fine sharpmaker stone lying flat on a surface using light pressure)... A little experience will make your favorite choice obvious... Other ideas to consider might be a single fine ceramic rod or even the top of your car window (rolled half way down)... 
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