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Posted: 3/7/2011 8:01:05 PM EDT
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Ive got a microtech scarab with a double edge blade but Iam really wanting a single edge. Im not crazy about microtechs single edge blade so Id like to make my own. I work in a tool and die shop so Iam using scrap we have. I can use A2, D2, M2, M4, H13 and S7. Iam leaning towards D2 with a 60-62 Rc. I'll be sending it to the people who do our heat treat so it will get their standard treatment nothing fancy. Anyone care to chime in on material choice and heat treat? |
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If it's CPM M4, then that is some of the gnarliest shit ever to have been smelted. I have a friend with a Ken Onion custom bowie in CPM M4 that holds an edge better than any knife I have ever seen. M4 is the new "super steel". Be prepared to take forever grinding the bevels and use up at least 6-8 belts in the process. As well as never being able to polish up the surface to a smoother finish than about 600 grit, too many carbides for it to come out even. It would be awesome after all the work though! |
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Ok, Ive got a big chunk of M4(not cpm) that was scrapped out years ago. I'll have to mill it down to roughly 1x5x.125"s. Ive turned and ground alot of D2,M2,M4 and cpmM4. Making punches and having to polish some areas to a 4rms finish can be a chore with high speed. D2 is not so bad. M2 is a little tougher to polish. M4 is nearly impossible using good sandpaper. A 12" debur wheel does a good job but you have to take your work out of the machine. CPM-M4 is similar to M2 and can be polished with some effort using good sandpaper. CPM-M4 is also easier to hard turn than regular M4. I talked to our heat treat guy today and he said M4 would make a great blade. I told him about my concerns with brittleness and he said they usually triple temper M4 which helps with this. The good thing is Ive got a punch to make soon out of M4 that requires triple temper so I can send my blade in with it. I'll just have to get on the ball and get the blade ready sooner than I thought. For blade geometry Iam thinking a wharncliffe style with a flat grind but I'll leave enough meat on the spine of the blade to make sharpening with a lansky or other kit easy to grip. |
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Quoted: Don't forget you'll have to sharpen it regularly. Everyone wants a Supersteel - until it comes tome to sharpen it. Iam anxious to find out. All I'll have in the project is time so its win/win from my perspective. Like I said Ive polished many tool and high speed steels and M4 is a bitch to take material off of once hard. I hope that translates into edge durability. |
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Quoted: Don't forget you'll have to sharpen it regularly. Everyone wants a Supersteel - until it comes time to sharpen it. Regular sharpening is not required with properly treated M4. My friends bowie referenced above is zero ground and still has the same untouched edge it came with a few years ago. After cutting through trees, water bottles and every other thing it will still slice a piece of notebook paper in half in mid-air. An edc knife that is used to cut paper, boxes, tape and other similar stuff won't need sharpening for several months at the least. It's this knife with G10 grips and M4 instead of damascus.  I'd also recommend using Paul Bos for the heat treat |
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I know the design is sort of funky. I machined it around the desire for a good blade to open letters, boxes and general light work yet retain its ability to puncture. Both secondary angles are 7 degrees each side which is less than the original blade. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Its done for the most part. I might go back and polish it more. I had to really rework the point because I made it a tad too long. Works great though. This first pic is after heat treat and prior to any work:    The serrations on the top are just for looks. They are not sharp. |
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