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7/27/2005 4:14:09 PM EDT
This is my CQC-7.  It has seen very little use, and I think the liner is travelling too much.  If I push on the spine of the blade, the liner moves.  Here's the pic:
7/27/2005 5:53:50 PM EDT
[#1]
It's over the centerline of the blade, but has a lot of good life left in it at that point . . .  but

if you a  force to the back of the blade and the liner slides, send it back for rehab
7/27/2005 8:15:52 PM EDT
[#2]
From what I've heard, those kinds of QC problems are common with Emerson.
7/28/2005 8:57:36 AM EDT
[#3]
if you think its a prob, sned it to emerson and they will fix it.  they have great customer service.
7/29/2005 6:38:38 AM EDT
[#4]
have you changed the tension setting on the pivot screw, or any other of the screws besides the pocket clip????.........

any of those being changed can cause such things to happen.........
7/29/2005 1:14:27 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
have you changed the tension setting on the pivot screw, or any other of the screws besides the pocket clip????.........

any of those being changed can cause such things to happen.........


Yes, I have disassembled the knife once or twice in order to clean out grit on the hinge pin.  When the knife was new, I had to use a flat blade screwdriver pry the lock out of the way of the tang in order to close it.  I sent it to Emerson, and it came back like this.  Emerson didn't send me back the original knife, they just sent me a brand new one.  

Don't take this as an Emerson bashing thread - I think their customer service is excellent and they make quality products that they stand behind %100.  I just think I got that one in a 1,000,000 lemon.
7/30/2005 7:37:18 AM EDT
[#6]
the probs you're describing/having w/ the lock sticking and also moving when the blade is wiggled are signs that the lock tab/blade interface aren't square, and the angles on their face is excessive...

the prob of them not bein square is caused by less than proper fitting/assembly........ the prob of them bein at the wrong angle on their face is sometimes a sign the maker is using this to speed up assembly by having a thin contact that "wears in" quickly.... or, is another sign of less than adequate fitting/assembly...

the adjustment on the pivot screw can allow enough slack between the blade/liner to cause the lock to slip over farther than it normally would......same w/ the screws in the spacer.......even the order you tighten them can make a difference on some......lol......this will sometimes make it appear that the lock is dropping too far over.....any slack in the pivot/blade/liners/bolsters is compounded here.....

the good news is you've got all the parts for a real cutler to make ya a knife out of....lol....the bad news is you've allready paid to have it done once!.......

send that puppy back again, and tell them what you expect from the workmanship on it.......if they won't ship ya a knife that meets your expectations, ask for your money back, and go see one of the folks makin real knives by hand.......is plenty of folks that make them for not much more than the upscale factory knives........

good luck, and keep us posted
skintback
7/30/2005 2:12:55 PM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
the probs you're describing/having w/ the lock sticking and also moving when the blade is wiggled are signs that the lock tab/blade interface aren't square, and the angles on their face is excessive...

the prob of them not bein square is caused by less than proper fitting/assembly........ the prob of them bein at the wrong angle on their face is sometimes a sign the maker is using this to speed up assembly by having a thin contact that "wears in" quickly.... or, is another sign of less than adequate fitting/assembly...

the adjustment on the pivot screw can allow enough slack between the blade/liner to cause the lock to slip over farther than it normally would......same w/ the screws in the spacer.......even the order you tighten them can make a difference on some......lol......this will sometimes make it appear that the lock is dropping too far over.....any slack in the pivot/blade/liners/bolsters is compounded here.....

the good news is you've got all the parts for a real cutler to make ya a knife out of....lol....the bad news is you've allready paid to have it done once!.......

send that puppy back again, and tell them what you expect from the workmanship on it.......if they won't ship ya a knife that meets your expectations, ask for your money back, and go see one of the folks makin real knives by hand.......is plenty of folks that make them for not much more than the upscale factory knives........

good luck, and keep us posted
skintback



To be honest with you, I think the CQC-7's blade design is retarded.  I really like the design of the handle, though.  I have entertained the thought of having someone make a conventional v-grind/non-tanto blade for the handle.  How much would that cost?
7/30/2005 10:27:41 PM EDT
[#8]
Much farther over than my CQC-7. Send it back to Emerson and they should do you right.

7/31/2005 8:31:05 AM EDT
[#9]

To be honest with you, I think the CQC-7's blade design is retarded. I really like the design of the handle, though. I have entertained the thought of having someone make a conventional v-grind/non-tanto blade for the handle. How much would that cost?



i've been away from the knife biz for about 10yrs, emerson was just starting to get some media attention as i was getting out of the biz......i have no idea what that knife looks like...lol...

the subject of blade/handle/knife design is something that would easily fill more than 1 college course.....the best advice i can give you is to define what you want tthe knife to do, find one you like and then try it in your hand....and, i don't mean just heft it....i mean either put the edge/point against something soft like a phone book and feel how the handle feels when you have a load on it......that's how you know what a knife will do!......if you can't put the blade against something, hold the back of the blade w/ your other hand to do the same thing........try this w/ what ever type of cut you're gonna want it to do... draw/slice, plungeing/skinning cut, point penetration, peeling, what ever.......any bad places on the handle that will cause blisters will show up....... only then does fit/finish become relevant......

notice i said that knife/handle/blade design "would" fill more than a college course.......... "art" design, and marketing are already college courses.....there is alot to be said for traditional designs...they came about when people actually used knives.....unfortunately, it's all already been said so much it won't sell any magazines......


one maker i know said it best when he said "3 things go into quoteing an special order....quality, price, and delivery date...the customer picks 2 of those, i get the 3rd"....lol....  i'm assuming this is one of the factory made knives, not one that emerson made himself.......have you thought about contacting him???...... i've never met him, but most makers i've known have been good folks to deal w/......

you may want to pick up a copy of one of the big annual knife books, like the one ken warner does/did...... was titled "Knives 'XX" for each yr...... there is a section in the back listing makers by location, i believe......you may be suprised what a couple of hundred bucks can buy ya from a less known, local maker........ i don't really have any idea what someone would charge ya to make a blade and fit it to that handle, even if they would...... my guess is prob $35-$65.......anyone doing it professionaly should be able to do in in less than 1hr shop time....

well, i hope this has thoroughly muddied the waters!...lol... seriously, best of luck w/ this, and keep us posted..

skintback
7/31/2005 9:27:29 AM EDT
[#10]
I had the same problem with my Ken Onion knife (Kershaw), I took it to the distributor and it was replaced without any questions asked. None of my other liner locks have got that bad yet, but Most of my knifes aren't older than maybe 5 years, my Kershaw was almost 10, and it had been daily wear and use for 7 of those
7/31/2005 9:47:43 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:

To be honest with you, I think the CQC-7's blade design is retarded.  I really like the design of the handle, though.  I have entertained the thought of having someone make a conventional v-grind/non-tanto blade for the handle.  How much would that cost?



I need to do the same. My tanto point broke off and Emerson wants $70 for the fix.  The whole damn knife wasn't much more than that.
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