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Posted: 6/1/2004 5:52:06 PM EDT
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In the absence of polls, can you guys list your answers as to what would be the best fixed blade knife should SHTF? I'm trying to get a popular opinion What is the ideal handle material for this knife if you are going to use it hard and expect it to keep going? shouldn't give away position. (micarta, wood, others) What finish will the blade have on it? (blackened, bead blasted, (don't use stainless and) parkerize, others) What kind of steel will the blade be made of (optional)? How thick and long will the blade be? What is the knife's overall length? Does it have a guard? A recession in the handle just before the blade? What is the sheath made of (leather, nylon, kydex, others?) Thanks, Patrick |
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I saw one of these that a friend has and it looks pretty indestructible www.1sks.com/store/becker-knife-and-tool-campanion.html But I think I'd rather have a regular old buck style fixed blade, it seems like it'd be easier to skin and cut with, though I did pick up the smaller version of that knife above called the "crewman" which I think is both thinner and shorter. I guess it depends whether you are looking for good working knife or big honking fighting knife. I suppose kydex sheaths would be better as they would not rot or be damaged by water, but I have knives laying around the house with leather sheathes that I would guess are at least 60 years old. |
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I think some qualities to look for are: Thick enough blade not to bend easily if struck or pried Thin enough blade to take a keen edge suitable for cutting food Blade tip design should be strong so as not to break, like a drop point or tanto style The handle and scabbard would ideally be synthetic, but wood and leather are acceptable if it is well built. The kabar is good knife, but its freakin huge. The Glock field knife is a nice size and well built but the blade is way too thick for fine work. With that said the favorite knife in my collection is a Buck Vanguard. Its strong enough to split off pieces of cut wood for kindling, but an excellent size for cutting food and utility work. |
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I've got to say that I love my M7 bayonet. For a relatively cheap fixed blade, made of good materials with a pretty good design, it's the best on the market IMO. However, my perfect knife would be something like this: ATS 34 or 1095 carbon steel blade (or other suitable material, as many will tell you, blade quality has more to do with heat treating than blade material) Textured plastic/synthetic or wood scales. Doesn't matter a whole lot IMO. A 6-7" blade. Blade shape should be like your design that you showed me, Patrick. Surprising that we both came up with the same thing. The underside more or less like an M7 bayonet, but with more of the curve evident in drop point blades. The opposing side should have a straight or slight outward curve, and come back about 1.5" or so. This would be sharp enough that it would cut something, but mainly serve to allow it to dig into something easier. The blade should be about 1/4" thick (yes, I realize that's pretty thick). Edit: Looking at a ruler, 1/4" might be a tad excessive. But I would say at least 3/16". Edit again to say blade should probably be teflon, bead blasted stainless, or parkerized. I'm not too picky. Edit one last time. Guard on bottom, not on top. I put my thumb along the spine of the knife. This opinion is worth what you paid for it. |
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I have also bought knives from here: www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/eCommerce/main_front.jsp Neat place to stop if you are ever travelling through eastern TN. |
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A man's knife: 7-9 inch blade...Traditional shaped, Bowie or tanto...one edge serrated the other smooth..blackened blade KYDEK or Hardened Textured plastic handle. Must also have some weight to it..so no storage in handle. MUST have guard! KYDEK or Hardened Textured plastic sheath. These put up with alot of abuse! Just my .02!
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