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Posted: 6/28/2008 9:41:06 AM EDT
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Howdy folks. I know this question probably gets asked all the time, but component prices aee also always changing. I was contemplating making the dive into the .50BMG world with an AR upper, but the ammo prices are breathtaking. I was expecting $2-$2.50 tops, not $4.00/shot. I currently reload several handgun/rifle calibers, as well as shotshells. Just wonderin what price per round you folks are seeing with decently accurate ammo? Thanks. |
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Im new to the 50 both shooting and loading. But with the componets I bought last fall. I can load 695gr S.A. ball with surplus 5010 powder and CCI primers (already had the brass) for 1.25 per round. 100 bullets 40 bucks 8lb jug 65 bucks 500 primers 100 bucks Oh BTW 218 grs of powder. Do the math Max |
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50 BMG component prices have NOT doubled in the last year or so. While prices have increased, they haven't that much. The price of on reloaded 50 round depends mostly upon the bullet that you use, and somewhat in the powder. M2AP 700 gr: $0.35 each PMP 690 Ball Bullets: $0.50 each Hornady Amax $1.80 each Match-grade 800 gr Solids, $2.00-$2.50 each Primers: $0.30 each H50BMG Powder: $0.50 per 220 grains IMR-5010: $0.30 per 220 grains VV20N29 Powder: $0.80 per 240 grains Brass Wear, per shot: $0.15 So as you see, the price can range quite a bit. You can load plinker AP ammo for a little as $1.30 per round ($0.35 + $0.30 + $0.30 + $0.15) You can load Match-grade Amax for about $2.75 per round ($1.80 + $0.30 + $0.50 + $0.15) You can load Ten-X-Bullets ultra precise match solids for about $3.75 per round ($2.50 + $0.30 + $0.80 + $0.15) All this can be done on about $400 worth of equipment, assuming you get the LEE 50 BMG reloading kit along with an electronic scale and a few other small items. Given the MASSIVE savings in reloading 50 BMG, it makes more sense to reload than any other caliber I can think of, except 338 Lapua which is just also selling at $5-$6 per round. -David Edgewood, NM |
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David, good job. But where are you getting the AMAX for under 2 bucks? Sam, I am sorry but I would have broken it down, but the boss called "Dinner Time" and I wait for no man or woman when the grub is set down. you need to shop around some. I do not feel that you have ever reloaded. You might try places like Pat's reloading and HiTech Ammo for some component prices. I have a good suggestion if you are really thinking about getting into the 50 BMG thing. Join the FCSA (fifty caliber shooting assoc.) for 40 bucks for one year. The things you learn there are invaluable and you will find deals that will save you much more than the 40 bucks you spend for membership. And yes by the standards, my loads are plinking loads. Right now, I am getting both custom to my rifle and its trigger (yes I need to get a match trigger, this thing is dog do-do). And to get somewhat on paper at 600 yrds. Also one starts off thinking this big old 700 gr slug is going to be fairly resistant to the wind. Think again, it produces one hell of a super sonic bubble around it and makes it easy to blow around. I shot in a calm and then again in a good strong breeze. Moved the bullet a 300 yrds about 6" to the right. Hope to see you soon talking about what rifle you have on order. BTW some rifles take anywhere from a month to a year to get. Unless you just happen into a gun store with one in the rack. Max |
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I appreciate all the info. Wasn't looking for a breakdown, just a range would've been sufficient. On the contrary, I reload .410-12 gauge, .308, .40, .44 special/mag, 7mm mag, and .223 Just no experience with a round that required its own press! I've been reading a lot and it seems like all roads lead to FSCA. I need to make the decision whether or not to get into it before I fork over $40. Then I'll do even more research on which rifle/upper to purchase. I have a few concerns regarding the new .416 barret, .408 cheytac etc. and whether or not they'd better fit my needs as components and rifles become more available. ETA: The main reason I asked about reloading .50 is the infrequency I see myself shooting it as compared to other rounds. I figured if the difference were small enough, I'd let someone else do the work. |
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The 416 Barrett is an interesting round. However, if you think it's hard to find 50 BMG components (and it is) it will pale in comparison to the difficulty in finding components for the 416. 50 BMG offers surplus projectiles that will trace, pop on impact, and pierce mild steel. They're available for less than $50 each as pulldown components. Expect to pay $2.00 or so each for EVERY SINGLE projectile you fire from a 416 Barrett. And I only know of one manufacturer at this time. Barrel life of the 416 should also be much shorter than a 50 due to it being much more overbore. 408 Cheytac is even worse. Cheyenne Tactical does not provide good service to civilians as they believe they have more important gov't customers. And don't take my word for it. Google it. And they sell everything they have a gov't-type prices. Expect to spend HUGE dollars on the gun. If you want something in the 50 BMG, 416 Barrett, 408 Chey-tac class, I'd strongly suggest sticking with 50 BMG. While it's difficult to procure components and equipment at times, it's much better than the other two. And I personally don't see a niche between 338 Lapua and 50 BMG...but that's just me. -David Edgewood, NM |
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I'd advise you to stay away from Hi-Tech ammo for pulled bullets. I bought several thousand 308 caliber pulled bullets, supposedly with "light pull marks". I ended up having to have a die made to resize all of them; the "marks" basically crushed the bullets into ovals. That said, I sorted the (AP) bullets into 0.1 grain buckets and reloaded them in 300WM and they were amazingly accurate. I had one bucket that was large enough to get 300 rounds out of, so that's where I centered my time. I used the rest for "plinking" loads. |
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I would suggest that anyone shooting milsurp pulldown 50 BMG bullets run them through a LEE Cast bullet sizer die. Just lube the bullets up good using your favorite lube (I use an RCBS pad, some folks use WD40). This works great, forcing the bullet back to round and mashing any pull marks back to .510 diameter. And for less than $15.00. They also make one in 308. Hope you didn't spend too much on that custom sizer. These work just fine. If you want some really nice pulldown bullets that typically don't require sizing, take a look at polygunbag.com. There bullets are always a bit higher but their stuff is choice, much of it hand pulled with collets and in much better shape than that you'll find at other places. They'll also ship Tracers and AP via Fedex Ground ORM-D so you won't have to pay hazmat like some of the other guys. -David Edgewood, NM |
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RyJones, Did you complain? I've been buying unsized .50 API from them for a while. I was shooting them unsized and getting reasonable groups. Then I found the Lee die that David mentioned and started sizing them, not bad for surplus bullets. Service has always been fast and prices great. Never had to wait like I've had to at other places. When I bought supplies 2 weeks ago CCI 35 primers were 22 cents apiece, bullets 20 cents and WC860 powder $5.63/lb. I bought four jugs powder so there was no Hazmat fee, shipping wasn't inflated like others like to do. With $.25 brass allowance I'm loading plinkers for under a $1. k |
Watch out for the 308 sizer die from Lee. This die is designed for CAST BULLETS and the final size is .309" Always mic the final diameter. I sized some surplus .311" diameter bullets in the Lee sizer and they all came out very nice. All at .309". Not something I want to shoot considering they were steel jacketed bullets. |
I think the only thing negative I've ever heard about an ALS is the wait time. But don't let that little bit of info stop you from joining the FCSA. The money I've saved by joining has paid for my membership many times over. As your second choice, you may want to consider a Rebel instead of a shorty. The extra barrel length will allow you to use slower burning powder and push a heavier projectile. But, unless you're shooting competitions at 1000 yards, I wouldn't worry about it. If I were to do it over again, I'd get the same Rebel I have now, but I'd see if he could get me a barrel at 33" instead of 36". 32-34 is the sweet spot, anything longer is pretty much pointless. As far as reloading goes, DON'T DO IT... That'll leave more components for me. 
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I have never seen an ALS in person so I have no real idea what the difference is between it and the Ferret 50 riles. But I can say that I love my upper SM with 36" barrel. I do have the tight chamber and with the South African 695 gr ball bullets, I have measured and I have to see the bullet down enough so that the COAL is about 5.350. Have not checked out the seating depth yet for the AMAX 750 gr. But some people can not seat them out as far as the bore on some of the other rifles like the AR-50 for example. When I ordered my Ferret back around the 2nd week of April, it took about 4 weeks. But then too, I ordered the day before he was making a barrel order also. But it appears that Dave gets them out a heck of a shorter time than the ALS. Also unless things have changed, if you are a member of FCSA he gives you a 100 buck discount as some other vendors do. hence the reason I said the other day that you will get back more than you invested. Max |
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