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Posted: 3/5/2008 5:35:14 PM EDT
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OK which rings should I get for my HS50 I have a 20x Super Sniper so 30mm Have a Brownells account so if anything from there is any good Thanks |
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I use Burris Xtreme 6-screw rings for a cost effective 50 BMG capable ring. They're $40 a pair at midway, maybe cheaper with a discount at Brownells. Mine have been giving fine service for two years, holding a Nightforce 5.5-22x56mm on a State Arms Shorty. Just don't use the LOW ones. They have a bunch of metal removed so they can be that low and they looked pretty weak. I went with the mediums for my application. -David Edgewood, NM |
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How about an opinion on these the 50 BMG models www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=20226&title=TACTICAL%20RINGS |
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I'm sure those would be fine but why spend that much on rings? Nightforces are only $150 and badgers are about the same. Not much reason to spend almost $200 (I sent my C&R to Brownell's too) considering how good the NF and Badgers are? Remember, scope tubes are aluminum, and thus the weak link in the system. -David Edgewood, NM |
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Pedro66 I used the burris rings on my steyr with a super sniper [16x] and never had a problem with them, I now have a burris black diamond [6x24x50] with badger ord. rings, if your like me you will probably want the tallest ring you can get. I have to move the right side muff half way up my ear to get on the scope even with tall rings, and I took the cheek piece off and replaced it with a piece of felt. Casey |
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Yep. Have your rings perfectly aligned. After you align them as best you can, torque them down to the ring maker's spec on the cross bolt. Use an inch pounds torque wrench. Then lap the rings with a Wheeler engineering lapping bar. Lapping the bottom ring halves is most important. The upper halves are floating but I put a little bit of effort into lapping them as well. Then clean out all the lapping compound. Next, I use scope grip from MSP, basically just powdered Rosin to put between the scope and the rings. It'll keep the scope from slipping. Align your scope as you normally would. I use a bright colored string on a plumb bob at 100 yards or so to line up the vertical crosshair. Line up your scope after horizontally leveling the action with an accurate level. Be sure to setup the eye relief as you plan to do most of your shooting. The Mk 4 has around 4" of eye relief so try to take advantage of it all. If you mount the scope while sitting at the bench, your brow may be too close shooting prone. I mount scopes shooting prone because that's how I shoot competitively. Anyway, after you get everything lined up, uniformly torque all the ring screws, much like you would when changing a tire...alternate across the scope to avoid turning it in the rings. Try your best to get the spaces between the upper and lower ring halves uniform on both sides. I don't use feeler gauges but you should try to get it close. By the way, Loctite EVERY FASTENER on the rings using blue loctite. 50 BMG harmonic vibrations will rattle your screws loose. And that's about it. -David Edgewood, NM |
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Not lapping the mounts. I'm lapping the inside of the lower halves of the rings. The bottom halves contact your scope 180 deg. Lapping ensures no portion of the ring is exerting any more pressure on the scope tube than any other. I don't lap bases or the mount side of the rings. -David Edgewood, NM |
Pedro66, Don't do that!!! Lapping the rings consists of mounting your rings on you action and using a heavy trued lapping bar (try brownells) and lapping compound. Place it in you rings with the compound as you would if you were placing your scope for mounting. With out the top halve on the rings slide the lapping bar/tool with the compound back and forth placing light uniform downward pressure as you rotate slightly. What you are trying to achieve is uniform abrasion on both lower ring halves and in turn you true up the rings. This ensures that there is uniform pressure placed on you scope tube. |
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