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Posted: 1/29/2014 3:15:06 PM EDT
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How much will a H3 buffer slow my rate of fire down?
I usually run 16" and 10.5". |
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Quoted:
50 or so rounds? That's hardly anything. Is that really all? Assuming your coming from an H2 your adding less than an oz of mass to the system. If you're running a DI gun give the MGI a chance, try something heavier like a solid stainless buffer or the Vltor A5 system. Check out Spikes ST-9x or Heavybuffers.com |
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I've got a whole buffer collection I've gathered over the years as well as the A5 system, special gas tubes, weighted carriers but now I just control the gas to control the RoF. Going to a heavier buffer also does nothing to reduce the fouling coming in to your action. The MGI is an excellent buffer that may work for you but if it does work that certainly means you are overgassed...which most barrels are to be able to run with the weak stuff that is out there. So if you have a RR and are swapping uppers like I do and everyone else does then you must be under the assumption that all your uppers are overgassed to run a buffer that is heavier than a milpsec H2 which is all you need to kill bolt bounce. I've done this over the years keeping track of various buffers and springs I would use for a bunch of different uppers. In some cases it is unavoidable and you have to change when using a Shrike which requires a much stronger spring. Now, it is only when I use the Shrike or a pistol caliber blowback configuration that I change buffers. 90% of the time, I'm running an H2 buffer and standard power spring. You want more than 50 RPM reduction? Look at the link below, where I mention the various port sizes required to run the (3) different 10.5" barrels below. There was a considerable spread between what port size was required to make it run vs the port size that was drilled in the barrel. At the bottom of the page I mention a 11.5" that I tested that came with a .073 port and it ran at 816 RPM While it only needed a .063 port and it ran at 629 RPM 187 RPM Slower Just by controlling the gas and not playing the musical buffer game - higher RoF reduction than going to a heavier buffer and reduced fouling at the same time. http://micromoa.com/?page_id=855  If you are dead set against an adjustable gas block consider our 'baby Govnah' where a small .043" pilot hole is drilled and you drill it out till your configuration functions the way you want it. At only $20 it is the least expensive option.  Below are some links to a new two part article that came out this week on the MicroMOA Govnah that covers the background and Govnah solution and testing quite well - all with RoF informatioin. Part1 http://www.recoilweb.com/micromoas-govnah-adjustable-gas-block-38489.html Part 2 http://www.recoilweb.com/micromoas-govnah-adjustable-gas-block-pt-2-of-2-38639.html  |
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Quoted:
I've got a whole buffer collection I've gathered over the years as well as the A5 system, special gas tubes, weighted carriers but now I just control the gas to control the RoF. Going to a heavier buffer also does nothing to reduce the fouling coming in to your action. The MGI is an excellent buffer that may work for you but if it does work that certainly means you are overgassed...which most barrels are to be able to run with the weak stuff that is out there. So if you have a RR and are swapping uppers like I do and everyone else does then you must be under the assumption that all your uppers are overgassed to run a buffer that is heavier than a milpsec H2 which is all you need to kill bolt bounce. I've done this over the years keeping track of various buffers and springs I would use for a bunch of different uppers. In some cases it is unavoidable and you have to change when using a Shrike which requires a much stronger spring. Now, it is only when I use the Shrike or a pistol caliber blowback configuration that I change buffers. 90% of the time, I'm running an H2 buffer and standard power spring. You want more than 50 RPM reduction? Look at the link below, where I mention the various port sizes required to run the (3) different 10.5" barrels below. There was a considerable spread between what port size was required to make it run vs the port size that was drilled in the barrel. At the bottom of the page I mention a 11.5" that I tested that came with a .073 port and it ran at 816 RPM While it only needed a .063 port and it ran at 629 RPM 187 RPM Slower Just by controlling the gas and not playing the musical buffer game - higher RoF reduction than going to a heavier buffer and reduced fouling at the same time. http://micromoa.com/?page_id=855 http://micromoa.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/3-10.5-barrels-1024x647.jpg If you are dead set against an adjustable gas block consider our 'baby Govnah' where a small .043" pilot hole is drilled and you drill it out till your configuration functions the way you want it. At only $20 it is the least expensive option. http://micromoa.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/babygovnah3-1024x768.jpg Below are some links to a new two part article that came out this week on the MicroMOA Govnah that covers the background and Govnah solution and testing quite well - all with RoF informatioin. Part1 http://www.recoilweb.com/micromoas-govnah-adjustable-gas-block-38489.html Part 2 http://www.recoilweb.com/micromoas-govnah-adjustable-gas-block-pt-2-of-2-38639.html http://www.recoilweb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Merrill-Govnah-Regulator-Plate-Adjustment-618x412.jpg Good article. With solutions like this gas block I do agree that buffer weights are a thing of the past, it's just not something I've tried yet. I really like that the plates are tunable with 3 settings and replaceable, much better solution than the pre-set switch block or set screw gas blocks assuming one takes the time to tune it properly. |
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Wow!
Amphibian, Amazing post and many many thanks. Yes I'm running a RR. Doing the port thing does sound best. Where can I get one of those that you are speaking of? Or is this something that doesn't come standard and/is/or will be a gunsmithing task? I've been running just a standard car buffer lately and its been running flawlessly but I want a slower rof. Since I just got a h3 ill try that tomorrow. If I have problems with that cant I just take one weight out and replace it with 1 weight from my car buffer and have a "h2"? I guess I'm to the point where I want my toy perfect. I guess I'm cursed with the usual gun guy disease of always needing something new or needing to tweek something. Amphibian- thank you for all your help, knowledge, and time. |
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Quoted: Wow! Amphibian, Amazing post and many many thanks. Yes I'm running a RR. Doing the port thing does sound best. Where can I get one of those that you are speaking of? Or is this something that doesn't come standard and/is/or will be a gunsmithing task? I've been running just a standard car buffer lately and its been running flawlessly but I want a slower rof. Since I just got a h3 ill try that tomorrow. If I have problems with that cant I just take one weight out and replace it with 1 weight from my car buffer and have a "h2"? I guess I'm to the point where I want my toy perfect. I guess I'm cursed with the usual gun guy disease of always needing something new or needing to tweek something. Amphibian- thank you for all your help, knowledge, and time. Gas blocks are in stock now. You can see what is involved with the installation: http://micromoa.com/?page_id=86 A numbered drill bit set (not fractional) is all that is required for proper installation. Yes, you can do what you said regarding the buffer. |
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