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10/1/2011 5:17:46 PM EDT
I finally receive my FrankFord Arsenal M16 last week after a long 6 month wait, today was the first time I shot a FA-.223 .



The current set up, the way I purchased it: 11.5" commando upper, funky cast alum collapsable stock, I think with a std buffer (no markings), new FCG and a new FA bolt.



I installed a new Magpul CTR kit with a std buffer.



Fired in semi first 5 rounds ran ok, switched to auto, shot maybe 5 rounds then it stopped, looked at the bolt it was closed and a bullet in the chamber but it didn't fire, why? After this happen I put the oringal spring and buffer in but that didn't fix the problem either.



Switched uppers, I bought a BCM 11.5" upper and a FA bolt, same issues as above.

Then installed a suppressor and did mulitple mag dumps, finally I started smiling, then after a few more mags (Poly and GI mags) it started jamming, the spent case was at the top and it already started loading a new round, why?



Switched uppers again, put on my Colt LE6940-16" upper on it, shot fine in semi, then tried FA and it wouldn't fire at all, at this point I'm saying WTF, I also took the spring and H buffer out of my Colt and that didn't help either.



Thanks in advance

JR



10/1/2011 6:09:44 PM EDT
[#1]
Need more info, is it FTF, FTE? Is the hammer riding forward but not with enough force to detonate the primer? What else can you remember about the problem?
10/1/2011 11:06:45 PM EDT
[#2]
Much of what you are describing sounds like excessive cyclic rate along with a side order of bolt bounce.  Something like an H3 buffer would probably solve your problems, presuming you don't have some other issue with the fire control group, sear timing or something like that.
10/3/2011 2:49:11 AM EDT
[#3]




Quoted:

Need more info, is it FTF, FTE? Is the hammer riding forward but not with enough force to detonate the primer? What else can you remember about the problem?
It's both FTF and FTE...

I didn't think of looking to see if firing pin struck the primer..

I was the only one there, lucky I took a crappy cell phone video, after seeing it I recall now there was alot of smoke in my face just like my open bolt M11, is that normal?

I thought this was odd as I was removing the mag to un-jam it, I noticed inside the mag, the remaining cartridges were discolored by the smoke, is that normal?

I was shooting PMC and Wolf, never had any issues with PMC but my 6940 hates the wolf, it's probably under powered.



10/3/2011 2:50:26 AM EDT
[#4]




Quoted:

Much of what you are describing sounds like excessive cyclic rate along with a side order of bolt bounce. Something like an H3 buffer would probably solve your problems, presuming you don't have some other issue with the fire control group, sear timing or something like that.


It did seam pretty fast, I ordred a H3 buffer yesterday...

thanks

10/3/2011 3:38:22 AM EDT
[#5]
Sounds like bolt bounce to me. I had the same problem with my sp1 conversion, an h3 or spikes tungsten is worth a try. I think jp or maybe wolff makes a 20% increased power buffer spring that might also be worth a try.  If nothing else it will atleast slow down your cyclic.
10/4/2011 2:02:01 PM EDT
[#6]
Mine will run great with an H2 buffer, but not with the H3 or any of the spikes buffers I have. I just had to experiment with buffers on my M16. Also had to replace the hammer spring to get reliable function. I basically take an assortment of springs and buffers with me when I run a new upper. Does everything seem to be in good condition in the lower? May just be a little too used and in need of a new parts kit. I'd mess with some buffers and springs first though
10/5/2011 5:30:55 PM EDT
[#7]
You might want to consider this.  All my uppers run just fine with it.  I never have to change buffers anymore.   I let a friend of mine try it on my M16 and the next week he had one on his.  It slows the ROF and made it much smoother.

http://www.vltor.com/emod-a5.html

10/9/2011 4:42:34 AM EDT
[#8]




Quoted:

I finally receive my FrankFord Arsenal M16 last week after a long 6 month wait, today was the first time I shot a FA-.223 .



The current set up, the way I purchased it: 11.5" commando upper, funky cast alum collapsable stock, I think with a std buffer (no markings), new FCG and a new FA bolt.



I installed a new Magpul CTR kit with a std buffer.



Fired in semi first 5 rounds ran ok, switched to auto, shot maybe 5 rounds then it stopped, looked at the bolt it was closed and a bullet in the chamber but it didn't fire, why? After this happen I put the oringal spring and buffer in but that didn't fix the problem either.



Switched uppers, I bought a BCM 11.5" upper and a FA bolt, same issues as above.

Then installed a suppressor and did mulitple mag dumps, finally I started smiling, then after a few more mags (Poly and GI mags) it started jamming, the spent case was at the top and it already started loading a new round, why?



Switched uppers again, put on my Colt LE6940-16" upper on it, shot fine in semi, then tried FA and it wouldn't fire at all, at this point I'm saying WTF, I also took the spring and H buffer out of my Colt and that didn't help either.



Thanks in advance

JR





Update:

I purchased a Spikes H3 buffer, took it out yesterday for a test drive..

Same isses with the Commando and BCM 11.5" uppers both uppers will not eject the spent case before it starting loading the next round.

BCM upper with a suppressor, ran flawlessly.

Used my Colt LE6940-16" upper it ran flawlessly as well, I really like now this shot compaired to the BCM...



What would a H2 Buffer do?

Is there some kinda of chart for barrel lenght and what type of buffer or spring to use or is it just trail an error?

Thanks JR
10/9/2011 6:01:12 AM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
Same isses with the Commando and BCM 11.5" uppers both uppers will not eject the spent case before it starting loading the next round.
BCM upper with a suppressor, ran flawlessly.

Thanks JR


I use a BCM Complete Bolt, and didn't have the O-Ring installed on the extractor spring, and I was having failure to extract issues, installed it and had no more issues.  Make sure you have the O-Ring installed.

10/9/2011 8:21:22 AM EDT
[#10]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Same isses with the Commando and BCM 11.5" uppers both uppers will not eject the spent case before it starting loading the next round.
BCM upper with a suppressor, ran flawlessly.

Thanks JR


I use a BCM Complete Bolt, and didn't have the O-Ring installed on the extractor spring, and I was having failure to extract issues, installed it and had no more issues.  Make sure you have the O-Ring installed.



I put one of these in every bolt.

http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-Extractor-Spring-Uprade-Kit-p/bcm%20extractor%20spring%20upgrade.htm
10/9/2011 6:19:53 PM EDT
[#11]
you can buy an oring kit from the auto parts store or harbor frieght.  it will usually have the oring to fit the extractor and having an oring kit around is really helpful when you need it.
10/9/2011 8:57:31 PM EDT
[#12]
is it closing on the empty case, or not extracting the case from the chamber?

It sounds like your undergassed, not cycling completely. What ammo are you shooting? 5.56mm ammo will have more power than .223 higher pressure.
10/10/2011 5:16:04 AM EDT
[#13]




Quoted:

is it closing on the empty case, or not extracting the case from the chamber?



It sounds like your undergassed, not cycling completely. What ammo are you shooting? 5.56mm ammo will have more power than .223 higher pressure.


Mike, The spent case is on top of the next round as it starts to load, then jams.

I think it's over gassed, there is so much smoke in my face when using the 11.5" uppers from the bolt area, when using the 16" upper all the gas is leaving from the front of the barrel, I'm using PMC and Wolf.





Reef Raider I'll buy a couple spring upgrade kits...Thanks

10/10/2011 5:49:19 AM EDT
[#14]
If you are working well with a supressor you may be over gassed. You can tell by the spot of the brass coming out.

What position is the brass coming out when you shoot the different upppers? 4 or 5 oclock?
You may have light trigger springs that are not setting off the wolf primers well. Usually Wolf is under powered.
Change the buffer spring.
Try to use the same 3 mags for your testing.
Verify that each bolt you are using is a F/A bolt.
10/10/2011 6:24:42 AM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
If you are working well with a supressor you may be over gassed. You can tell by the spot of the brass coming out.

What position is the brass coming out when you shoot the different upppers? 4 or 5 oclock?
You may have light trigger springs that are not setting off the wolf primers well. Usually Wolf is under powered.
Change the buffer spring.
Try to use the same 3 mags for your testing.
Verify that each bolt you are using is a F/A bolt.


Well overgassed the rounds would land to the 12-3 O'clock position, undergass is the 4:30-6 position.  BTW most of the 10-12" barrels tend to be overgassed.

Again I would recommend the O-Ring, since the OP just mentioned that the spent casing is stuck inside the chamber and the next round is trying to load.  Almost like a double feed.  

I had the exact same problem, and installed the O-ring that came with my bolt, and fixed the problem.  Someone posted some great information on why the O-Ring fixes the problem.
10/10/2011 8:54:44 AM EDT
[#16]




Quoted:



Quoted:

If you are working well with a supressor you may be over gassed. You can tell by the spot of the brass coming out.



What position is the brass coming out when you shoot the different upppers? 4 or 5 oclock?

You may have light trigger springs that are not setting off the wolf primers well. Usually Wolf is under powered.

Change the buffer spring.

Try to use the same 3 mags for your testing.

Verify that each bolt you are using is a F/A bolt.




Well overgassed the rounds would land to the 12-3 O'clock position, undergass is the 4:30-6 position. BTW most of the 10-12" barrels tend to be overgassed.



Again I would recommend the O-Ring, since the OP just mentioned that the spent casing is stuck inside the chamber and the next round is trying to load. Almost like a double feed.



I had the exact same problem, and installed the O-ring that came with my bolt, and fixed the problem. Someone posted some great information on why the O-Ring fixes the problem.
I just looked at my cell phone videos, the 11.5" barrel is shooting around 2 O'clock position and my 16" barrel is around 4-5 O'clock.

I'm gonna buy a couple spring kits that RR suggested above, when installed will that allow me to shoot the 11.5" upper w/o a suppressor?

Thanks



10/10/2011 2:56:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quoted:

Quoted:
Quoted:
If you are working well with a supressor you may be over gassed. You can tell by the spot of the brass coming out.

What position is the brass coming out when you shoot the different upppers? 4 or 5 oclock?
You may have light trigger springs that are not setting off the wolf primers well. Usually Wolf is under powered.
Change the buffer spring.
Try to use the same 3 mags for your testing.
Verify that each bolt you are using is a F/A bolt.


Well overgassed the rounds would land to the 12-3 O'clock position, undergass is the 4:30-6 position. BTW most of the 10-12" barrels tend to be overgassed.

Again I would recommend the O-Ring, since the OP just mentioned that the spent casing is stuck inside the chamber and the next round is trying to load. Almost like a double feed.

I had the exact same problem, and installed the O-ring that came with my bolt, and fixed the problem. Someone posted some great information on why the O-Ring fixes the problem.
I just looked at my cell phone videos, the 11.5" barrel is shooting around 2 O'clock position and my 16" barrel is around 4-5 O'clock.
I'm gonna buy a couple spring kits that RR suggested above, when installed will that allow me to shoot the 11.5" upper w/o a suppressor?
Thanks



try it with the BCM bolt kit and the H-buffer 1st.  If it was running suppressed with a H3 buffer you shouldn't need the H3 buffer with out the suppressor.   The best fix for all of this is still the A5 stock.  I can run my LMT 10.5 upper  with and W/O the suppressor, the Colt SOPMOD 14.5 upper or a 20" upper all with out changing buffers using the A5 stock.

ETA FYI  always try and shoot your brass cases ammo 1st and the Wolf last.  The steel case's don't expand as much as the brass will.  So the steel case ammo will leave more carbon build up in the chamber.  This will give the brass cased ammo something to stick to.  Be sure to clean the chamber REAL GOOD ! before your next outing.

10/10/2011 3:53:39 PM EDT
[#18]
Another vote for the Vltor A5.





Fixed my bolt bounce and insane cyclic rates and associated trigger slap.

 
10/10/2011 6:41:42 PM EDT
[#19]
Quoted:
Another vote for the Vltor A5.

Fixed my bolt bounce and insane cyclic rates and associated trigger slap.  

+1.

I'm currently running a Vltor A5 on my '16 –– it solves a host of problems that crop up with carbine buffer systems.

YMMV.
10/10/2011 7:37:26 PM EDT
[#20]
Anybody timed the reduction in rate of fire with the A5?  I am looking for a reliable way other than hydraulic buffer to reduce the cyclic.  Ive tried h2, h3, spikes st2, dpms mechanical double tungsten.  They all varied but I don't think I got below 800.  I am thinking I would like to get to somwhere around the 650 range.
10/11/2011 2:46:41 AM EDT
[#21]




Quoted:



Quoted:





Quoted:



Quoted:

If you are working well with a supressor you may be over gassed. You can tell by the spot of the brass coming out.



What position is the brass coming out when you shoot the different upppers? 4 or 5 oclock?

You may have light trigger springs that are not setting off the wolf primers well. Usually Wolf is under powered.

Change the buffer spring.

Try to use the same 3 mags for your testing.

Verify that each bolt you are using is a F/A bolt.




Well overgassed the rounds would land to the 12-3 O'clock position, undergass is the 4:30-6 position. BTW most of the 10-12" barrels tend to be overgassed.



Again I would recommend the O-Ring, since the OP just mentioned that the spent casing is stuck inside the chamber and the next round is trying to load. Almost like a double feed.



I had the exact same problem, and installed the O-ring that came with my bolt, and fixed the problem. Someone posted some great information on why the O-Ring fixes the problem.
I just looked at my cell phone videos, the 11.5" barrel is shooting around 2 O'clock position and my 16" barrel is around 4-5 O'clock.

I'm gonna buy a couple spring kits that RR suggested above, when installed will that allow me to shoot the 11.5" upper w/o a suppressor?

Thanks







try it with the BCM bolt kit and the H-buffer 1st. If it was running suppressed with a H3 buffer you shouldn't need the H3 buffer with out the suppressor. The best fix for all of this is still the A5 stock. I can run my LMT 10.5 upper with and W/O the suppressor, the Colt SOPMOD 14.5 upper or a 20" upper all with out changing buffers using the A5 stock.



ETA FYI always try and shoot your brass cases ammo 1st and the Wolf last. The steel case's don't expand as much as the brass will. So the steel case ammo will leave more carbon build up in the chamber. This will give the brass cased ammo something to stick to. Be sure to clean the chamber REAL GOOD ! before your next outing.





RR, I was looking at the Vltor site, I can buy the buffer tube, spring and buffer for around $100 bucks, do you know if std carbine stock will fit on to the Vltor buffer tube? I realize the A5 is approx 1" longer but I can't justify throwing a $90 stock I just bought into a box.

Thanks JR

10/11/2011 5:42:30 AM EDT
[#22]
Quoted:
RR, I was looking at the Vltor site, I can buy the buffer tube, spring and buffer for around $100 bucks, do you know if std carbine stock will fit on to the Vltor buffer tube? I realize the A5 is approx 1" longer but I can't justify throwing a $90 stock I just bought into a box.
Thanks JR

That's what I did –– I just bought the A5 tube, buffer and spring, and put my Magpul CTR on it. It fits fine, but FWIW the A5 is milspec diameter and will only take milspec-tube stocks.

There is an inch gap when fully closed, but I don't find it noticable ... one of these days I'll get a sling adapter to fill the gap.
10/11/2011 7:03:45 AM EDT
[#23]




Quoted:



Quoted:

RR, I was looking at the Vltor site, I can buy the buffer tube, spring and buffer for around $100 bucks, do you know if std carbine stock will fit on to the Vltor buffer tube? I realize the A5 is approx 1" longer but I can't justify throwing a $90 stock I just bought into a box.

Thanks JR



That's what I did –– I just bought the A5 tube, buffer and spring, and put my Magpul CTR on it. It fits fine, but FWIW the A5 is milspec diameter and will only take milspec-tube stocks.



There is an inch gap when fully closed, but I don't find it noticable ... one of these days I'll get a sling adapter to fill the gap.

Great Thanks Tony and RR, I'll buy the Vltor parts, what buffer did you buy? Hopefully this will make her sing...



10/11/2011 8:27:35 AM EDT
[#24]



Quoted:





Quoted:


Quoted:

RR, I was looking at the Vltor site, I can buy the buffer tube, spring and buffer for around $100 bucks, do you know if std carbine stock will fit on to the Vltor buffer tube? I realize the A5 is approx 1" longer but I can't justify throwing a $90 stock I just bought into a box.

Thanks JR



That's what I did –– I just bought the A5 tube, buffer and spring, and put my Magpul CTR on it. It fits fine, but FWIW the A5 is milspec diameter and will only take milspec-tube stocks.



There is an inch gap when fully closed, but I don't find it noticable ... one of these days I'll get a sling adapter to fill the gap.

Great Thanks Tony and RR, I'll buy the Vltor parts, what buffer did you buy? Hopefully this will make her sing...





I got the standard one for mine. Runs fine with everything I throw at it.

 
10/11/2011 10:58:02 AM EDT
[#25]
Quoted:
Great Thanks Tony and RR, I'll buy the Vltor parts, what buffer did you buy? Hopefully this will make her sing...


JR, I just have the standard-weight buffer that comes with the receiver extension and spring. It runs fine, the ROF is perfect (I'm guesstimating around 725 RPM with my 11.5" upper).

I plan to buy the other weights eventually to have a full set ... if/when I finally get around to playing with my LMG upper, I'd like to be able to slow it down as much as possible, to make it more fun to walk the rounds onto target. But otherwise, so far the standard buffer has worked with 11.5" and 14.5" 5.56 uppers, and in 9mm with both my unsuppressed 7" DOE upper and my LRM M169 integrally suppressed upper.

YMMV.
10/11/2011 11:18:36 AM EDT
[#26]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Great Thanks Tony and RR, I'll buy the Vltor parts, what buffer did you buy? Hopefully this will make her sing...


JR, I just have the standard-weight buffer that comes with the receiver extension and spring. It runs fine, the ROF is perfect (I'm guesstimating around 725 RPM with my 11.5" upper).

I plan to buy the other weights eventually to have a full set ... if/when I finally get around to playing with my LMG upper, I'd like to be able to slow it down as much as possible, to make it more fun to walk the rounds onto target. But otherwise, so far the standard buffer has worked with 11.5" and 14.5" 5.56 uppers, and in 9mm with both my unsuppressed 7" DOE upper and my LRM M169 integrally suppressed upper.

YMMV.


Hey Tony,
Did you find the ROF to be good with the 9mm setups as well? I'm excited to try an A5 but am still doing my research on them at this point. Nice that you can run the different lengths 5.56 and 9mm with one setup. That certainly makes it a handy setup. I'm very happy to see that you can buy just the A5 RE, buffer, and spring. I'm not a huge fan of the emod so being able to buy it without the stock body is a plus in my book.

10/11/2011 12:07:54 PM EDT
[#27]
Quoted:
Hey Tony,
Did you find the ROF to be good with the 9mm setups as well? I'm excited to try an A5 but am still doing my research on them at this point. Nice that you can run the different lengths 5.56 and 9mm with one setup. That certainly makes it a handy setup. I'm very happy to see that you can buy just the A5 RE, buffer, and spring. I'm not a huge fan of the emod so being able to buy it without the stock body is a plus in my book.

Gettin' really off-topic here, so my apologies to JR ....

But the one time I tried the 9mm uppers on the A5-equipped M16 was as a quick function check and as a reference –– that day, I was working with my Uzi and with a Slidefire stock on a Colt 6933 that normally wears the 9mm uppers. So I didn't pay close attention to the 9mm ROF, just made sure it functioned fine (and it did). The 9mm ROF was about the same as the ROF with the same uppers on the 6933 with the Slidefire.
10/11/2011 12:21:25 PM EDT
[#28]
Blah, you guys cost/talked me into spending just over 100 bucks, just ordered the Vltor A5 Buffer Tube from Bravo Company, and The A5 Spring/Buffer set from DSG.

Since the were out of stock on the buffer tubes at DSG and out of stock on the spring/buffers at BCM. Grrr LOL
10/11/2011 1:04:00 PM EDT
[#29]
Quoted:
Blah, you guys cost/talked me into spending just over 100 bucks, just ordered the Vltor A5 Buffer Tube from Bravo Company, and The A5 Spring/Buffer set from DSG.

Since the were out of stock on the buffer tubes at DSG and out of stock on the spring/buffers at BCM. Grrr LOL


In the end you'll be glad you did.  

10/11/2011 4:03:58 PM EDT
[#30]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Blah, you guys cost/talked me into spending just over 100 bucks, just ordered the Vltor A5 Buffer Tube from Bravo Company, and The A5 Spring/Buffer set from DSG.

Since the were out of stock on the buffer tubes at DSG and out of stock on the spring/buffers at BCM. Grrr LOL


In the end you'll be glad you did.  


+1.

I've always thought the rifle extension/buffer operated more smoothly than the shorter-stroke carbine system does, and the A5 feels exactly like the rifle cycling pulse.

Now I've just got to figure out what the heck to do with the 20-something carbine-length buffers I've accumulated over the decades ...
10/11/2011 4:33:24 PM EDT
[#31]
Quoted:
Now I've just got to figure out what the heck to do with the 20-something carbine-length buffers I've accumulated over the decades ...


Art project in the works?
10/11/2011 4:35:52 PM EDT
[#32]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Now I've just got to figure out what the heck to do with the 20-something carbine-length buffers I've accumulated over the decades ...


Art project in the works?



EE  
10/11/2011 5:22:57 PM EDT
[#33]
Yeah. I have a whole lot more testing before I commit to the A5 that much. But it's a pretty complete reference collection, with a whole lotta rare and/or no-longer-made buffers and springs ... I'm not worried about finding a good home for them, if/when the time comes.

But seriously, IMHO the A5 receiver extension/buffer design is one of the most innovative and functional M16 developments in recent years. I'm really impressed.
10/12/2011 2:56:00 AM EDT
[#34]




Quoted:

Blah, you guys cost/talked me into spending just over 100 bucks, just ordered the Vltor A5 Buffer Tube from Bravo Company, and The A5 Spring/Buffer set from DSG.



Since the were out of stock on the buffer tubes at DSG and out of stock on the spring/buffers at BCM. Grrr LOL


I bought everything from Vltor yesterday, for $110 + shipping, BTW it all shipped sameday..

10/17/2011 10:48:01 AM EDT
[#35]
Looks like you gents have a handle on this. But wanted to add about the question if undergassed, or overgassed? Running with the supressor increases your gas pressure. So if increasing the gas pressure makes it run better, then the gun would be undergassed without the can.
10/18/2011 5:31:43 PM EDT
[#36]
Update:

Installed Vtlor A5 buffer tube, buffer spring assy and a BCM HD spring/o-ring kit.

Ammo: PMC and Wolf

The 16" upper again no issues at all, ammo PMC and Wolf

The 11.5" BCM upper no suppressor, ran w/o any issues(likes PMC hates Wolf) with suppressor either ammo will work.



The 11.5" commando upper, will not run at all with Wolf, ran ok with PMC but I had several feeding issues, the bolt traveled over the round and locked, what causes this? (the upper is a A1 with LM under the rear site).



Thanks Again JR....
10/18/2011 5:45:16 PM EDT
[#37]
Quoted:
Update:
Installed Vtlor A5 buffer tube, buffer spring assy and a BCM HD spring/o-ring kit.
Ammo: PMC and Wolf
The 16" upper again no issues at all, ammo PMC and Wolf
The 11.5" BCM upper no suppressor, ran w/o any issues(likes PMC hates Wolf) with suppressor either ammo will work.

The 11.5" commando upper, will not run at all with Wolf, ran ok with PMC but I had several feeding issues, the bolt traveled over the round and locked, what causes this? (the upper is a A1 with LM under the rear site).

Thanks Again JR....

Maybe it just doesn't like Wolf ammo?

Anyway, this fixed the 16" upper which your original post said would not run FA ... and the BCM works fine. From these results, I'd guess the commando upper has a gas-port issue. You can try to fix it ... but you also have the known new BCM 11.5" upper which works, and the 16" upper which works ... so since I like to keep things simple, I'd suggest you sell the unknown-brand 11.5" commando upper and move on with life. Sometimes you just get an upper which just doesn't want to run, and the amount of time/money to troubleshoot it just ain't worth the effort.

Bottom line: Your new MG works fine with two out of three uppers. Enjoy being an M16 owner, and move on.

YMMV.
10/18/2011 7:30:27 PM EDT
[#38]
timing, trigger group
mags
ammo
then buffer
10/18/2011 9:53:33 PM EDT
[#39]
Quoted:

The 11.5" commando upper, will not run at all with Wolf, ran ok with PMC but I had several feeding issues, the bolt traveled over the round and locked, what causes this? (the upper is a A1 with LM under the rear site).

Thanks Again JR....







Classic short stroking with that upper.  Its under gassed. The leading edge of the carrier is picking up the next rnd and the bolt rides in on top of it.  You could try using one of the other known to work BCG in that upper.  If its still acting up the gas port may need to be opened up. Or the gas port is not aligned with the front sight base and maybe a bad gas tube.   That would be a job for ADCO.  If the upper runs in semi then I would just sell it off, if not part it out.
10/19/2011 2:40:20 AM EDT
[#40]
Thank You all for helping me out, I'm eyeing a 14.5" upper as it's replacement.
10/19/2011 2:41:36 AM EDT
[#41]
If it won't run with the A5, sell it. Or if you're adventurous, remove the gasblock, get a numbered drillbit set, and see where it's at. It's not hard to open it up some. Make sure the hole lines up right with the hole in the gas block, and room is left for a handguard cap, even if you don't use one.



I can even run Tulammo with my 10.5" with A5. Runs like a little steam engine, but it cycles....
11/25/2011 5:30:00 PM EDT
[#42]
I have my Colt SP1 RR since 1992. I recently switched to Vltor A5 with the standard buffer weight. I can run anything from a 7.5-12.5 carbine length gas systems without having to change buffers and buffer spring. The Vltor A5 is one the best developments for the short barreled uppers period. The LMT 10.5 feels like you are shooting a BCM 14.5 middy super smooth.
12/5/2011 2:16:43 PM EDT
[#43]
Quoted:

Quoted:
I finally receive my FrankFord Arsenal M16 last week after a long 6 month wait, today was the first time I shot a FA-.223 .

The current set up, the way I purchased it: 11.5" commando upper, funky cast alum collapsable stock, I think with a std buffer (no markings), new FCG and a new FA bolt.

I installed a new Magpul CTR kit with a std buffer.

Fired in semi first 5 rounds ran ok, switched to auto, shot maybe 5 rounds then it stopped, looked at the bolt it was closed and a bullet in the chamber but it didn't fire, why? After this happen I put the oringal spring and buffer in but that didn't fix the problem either.

Switched uppers, I bought a BCM 11.5" upper and a FA bolt, same issues as above.
Then installed a suppressor and did mulitple mag dumps, finally I started smiling, then after a few more mags (Poly and GI mags) it started jamming, the spent case was at the top and it already started loading a new round, why?

Switched uppers again, put on my Colt LE6940-16" upper on it, shot fine in semi, then tried FA and it wouldn't fire at all, at this point I'm saying WTF, I also took the spring and H buffer out of my Colt and that didn't help either.

Thanks in advance
JR


Update:
I purchased a Spikes H3 buffer, took it out yesterday for a test drive..
Same isses with the Commando and BCM 11.5" uppers both uppers will not eject the spent case before it starting loading the next round.
BCM upper with a suppressor, ran flawlessly.
Used my Colt LE6940-16" upper it ran flawlessly as well, I really like now this shot compaired to the BCM...

What would a H2 Buffer do?
Is there some kinda of chart for barrel lenght and what type of buffer or spring to use or is it just trail an error?
Thanks JR


http://heavybuffers.com/reference.html
12/6/2011 5:54:09 AM EDT
[#44]
Quoted:
But seriously, IMHO the A5 receiver extension/buffer design is one of the most innovative and functional M16 developments in recent years. I'm really impressed.

That A5 system just looks like a receiver extension and plain jane buffer.  It's not anti-tilt, I don't see any whiz-bang doodads in there or anything, it just seems like a different combination of parts.  If you guys are raving about it, I'm clearly missing something, but for the life of me I don't know what it is.  What's so new and innovative about this that I'm missing?  Is the buffer adjustable or something?  
12/6/2011 6:04:09 AM EDT
[#45]
Quoted:
Quoted:
But seriously, IMHO the A5 receiver extension/buffer design is one of the most innovative and functional M16 developments in recent years. I'm really impressed.

That A5 system just looks like a receiver extension and plain jane buffer.  It's not anti-tilt, I don't see any whiz-bang doodads in there or anything, it just seems like a different combination of parts.  If you guys are raving about it, I'm clearly missing something, but for the life of me I don't know what it is.  What's so new and innovative about this that I'm missing?  Is the buffer adjustable or something?  


It uses a Longer buffer tube by about 1.5 inches or so, and hence a longer buffer which is heavier, it also uses a standard A1 or A2 action/buffer spring.

So in theory it will simulate having a full length stock/buffer system which is higher reliability and at the same time gives you the ability to have an adjustable stock.
12/6/2011 10:09:22 AM EDT
[#46]




Quoted:



Quoted:



Quoted:

But seriously, IMHO the A5 receiver extension/buffer design is one of the most innovative and functional M16 developments in recent years. I'm really impressed.


That A5 system just looks like a receiver extension and plain jane buffer. It's not anti-tilt, I don't see any whiz-bang doodads in there or anything, it just seems like a different combination of parts. If you guys are raving about it, I'm clearly missing something, but for the life of me I don't know what it is. What's so new and innovative about this that I'm missing? Is the buffer adjustable or something?





It uses a Longer buffer tube by about 1.5 inches or so, and hence a longer buffer which is heavier, it also uses a standard A1 or A2 action/buffer spring.



So in theory it will simulate having a full length stock/buffer system which is higher reliability and at the same time gives you the ability to have an adjustable stock.
The A5 system fixed all my problems with the std buffer.



12/6/2011 7:43:32 PM EDT
[#47]
Quoted:
Quoted:
But seriously, IMHO the A5 receiver extension/buffer design is one of the most innovative and functional M16 developments in recent years. I'm really impressed.

That A5 system just looks like a receiver extension and plain jane buffer.  It's not anti-tilt, I don't see any whiz-bang doodads in there or anything, it just seems like a different combination of parts.  If you guys are raving about it, I'm clearly missing something, but for the life of me I don't know what it is.  What's so new and innovative about this that I'm missing?  Is the buffer adjustable or something?  

Most folks –– including me –– who have spent enough time shooting both standard milspec rifle-stocked '16s and carbine-stocked '16s, find that the recoil pulse on the rifle-stocked MGs is smoother. That is the way it was designed by Gene Stoner; the carbine-length stock and its shorter receiver extension/buffer tube is a later adaptation by Colt, not Stoner, and sacrifices the original's smoothness and reliability in the name of compactness.

If you take apart a rifle receiver extension and its carbine counterpart, you'll see that in addition to the carbine's tube itself being shorter, the buffer and recoil spring are also shorter. As they must be.

But you may also notice that while the carbine spring surrounds the entire length of the carbine buffer ... on the rifle buffer, the spring only goes two-thirds of the way back and rides on a secondary ridge on the buffer.

What Vltor did with the A5 was take a standard rifle buffer spring and a standard rifle buffer, and whack off everything behind that secondary ridge. Then they beefed up the weight of the buffer itself so it equals the rifle buffer in weight, and use it along with a milspec rifle spring.

The result is a receiver extension (buffer tube) which duplicates the recoil pulse and cycling action, and thus the smoothness and reliability, of the original design's rifle stock, while being less than an inch longer than the milspec carbine receiver extension (buffer tube). So you can use carbine-length collapsible stocks on a receiver extension that works exactly the same as a rifle extension.

When you are pushing design parameters even further beyond Stoner's original design, with 10" or even 7" barrels and the resulting shorter gas pulse, the A5 is way, way, way more forgiving than the milspec carbine length tube.

And in any application, the smoothness of the A5's longer cycling is obvious ... maybe not on the first mag, but soon, and forever after, you'll notice the dif.

And Tony's Tip of the Day: If you hate that boing! sound of the spring next to your ear, pull the buffer and spring, and coat them with spray white lithium grease. You may have to clean your buffer tube more often, but that awful sound will go away, or at least be reduced greatly.

HTH. Your Mileage May Vary.
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