Armory Sponsor
Posted: 5/11/2011 3:03:36 PM EDT
|
this should be easy but once i put in the rll i cant seem to close the upper all the way is thier a trick on doing this the only thing i can think of is push the upper down until the bolt will go back in the buffer tube once it goes back it shuld close
any one ever have this problem i have a bushmaster so i know it will fit |
|
Quoted:
Take it down to the BATF office. An agent should be able to show you how to install it properly. They dont charge for the service either. 
He did say "rll" so let's hope he is being honest about that. I know nothing about these devices but badazzar15's comment seems to make sense as being the issue based on the OP's description. |
|
Quoted:
this should be easy but once i put in the rll i cant seem to close the upper all the way is thier a trick on doing this the only thing i can think of is push the upper down until the bolt will go back in the buffer tube once it goes back it shuld close any one ever have this problem i have a bushmaster so i know it will fit Need a low shelf lower which you should have. If you are using a link protector, you'll need about .055" milled off the rear lug on the upper. Also will need a SP1-style carrier, or a suitably cut M16 carrier. Paddle must be the right thickness to allow it to fit. I have paddles from .020" to .050" to suit. |
|
I will also add (since it sounds like your lower isnt RLL compatible right now) that in addition to the shelf needing to be SP1 spec the FCG pocket radius cuts where the main FCG pocket narrows to the selector pocket need to be milled back properly.
If the link can hit the interior radius of the selector pocket walls before the ears bottom out on the back of the lower you will rip or damange the sear ears in short order as the wider part of the link binds against where the reciever walls thicken and the ears take the full strain of the bolt carrier slamming home. James |
|
the lower is fine, but factory bushmaster AR15 bolt carriers are NOT compatible with the RLL. the carrier will either need to be replace with an SP1 spec carrier (DPMS AR15 carriers are the correct dimension), or will need to be modified to the correct SP1 dimension by someone with a bridgeport or some sort of milling machine. M60joe can do this mod to your carrier for a reasonable price. |
|
it is a registered LL for all of you who ask i finally got it to close whoever what i did was ipulled the upper down as fas as it would go then pulled the charging handle back so the bolt would go into the buffer tube then i was able to close it however once close i pulled the charging handle let it slam but the bolt does not go all the way foward is this how it supposed to be
any info would be great |
|
I posted this in your duplicate thread... It repeats some of what was already said but so be it... –––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––– I have not updated my site in years but this might help some: http://quarterbore.com/nfa/lightninglink.html What carrier are you using and does the bottom of the carrier look like the one in the middle below?  If not, you need one that does and the Colt SP1 style and DPMS carriers should work with a rLL. The other issue then could be your shelf in the lower. Some lowers have a high shelf that just do not work unless you have someone mill it out. I use Bushmaster lowers excusively and from the OP that sounds like what you ave so that should not be an issue. Anyways, my guess is the carrier is the issue unless you have the kns link protector. If that is the case, then you may still need to adjust your lower. The other question is what lower parts kit are you using as if you have a funky trigger group that could be your problem too. |
|
First off - STOP. If the bolt isnt closing all the way, the RLL is binding. That is a bad thing - you don't want to damage it. When installed properly, the bolt should go all the way forward. You need to have a SP-1 type carrier. An auto carrier WILL NOT work, and a semi auto carrier is very very very unlikely to work. Image of three common carrier types. Semi / SP1 / Auto. Notice the step in the rear of the carrier. It should be about 3/8" long with a square shoulder. 
You will need a properly sized paddle to fit between the carrier's step and the back lug on the upper. Not to thin, not to thick. Any paddle should get you "close" to see if it works by cycling without ammo. Next steps though - You DEFINITELY want to get a RLL protector from KNS. Here That will reinforce the weak point on the RLL, and as you know if the RLL breaks you are in trouble. The protector will require some material removed from the bottom of the upper's rear lug. The lower itself may fit the RLL, but it may not have enough clearance to let the RLL move as it should when in use. It is common to mill out a lower with a little extra clearance. Here is one I recently set up for a RLL. The rear of the pocket was extended further back, and the area around the head of the RLL has also been moved back. This should be done on a bushmaster too. Quick operation, and if it saves wear and tear on the RLL, why not. 
PM me your email addy and I'll send you a copy of the old RLL install instructions. |
Armory Sponsor