Armory Sponsor
Posted: 5/1/2008 8:29:56 PM EDT
|
I've had my RLL for little under a year and before my Form 4 even came back I got the RLL Protector. While talking in Nugents thread about the select fire thread, I realized that I had not notched out the disconnect properly to get semi fire. So since I missed this, what else have I missed? I started examinating how everything works together. Measuring parts ect... Then I started playing with the RLL with protector. I've always had the protector on the "top" side of the link when it's installed in the host. After seeing/playing with the RLL it seems like it may work better/do it's job better if it was on the "bottom" of the link when installed. So what say you guys who have much, much more experience in the matter? Protector on the top or bottom of the link? Thanks Magoo |
|
I have only tried it on the top, however, I would definately call KNS and talk to Brooks before trying it on the bottom. If I am not mistaken, KNS's directions say to put it on the top and then you might have to remove some material on the bottom rear lug of the upper for it to funtion properly due to the extra height of the RLL in combination with the Protector. |
I don't think I have my directions anymore but if it says top then that's the was it was intended to be used. Thanks Magoo |
|
I’m glad you brought this up I’ve been wondering what way would be best, I run mine on top. I made a block of wood the correct thickness; I just put the block in the receiver and remove metal from the rear lug until I can close. I have all my host set up with select fire, and if you compare the semi selector to the burst selector you will see what’s causing concern for me. The semi is flat the burst has ridges or raised rings on the outer edges. The link rides on these high spots and is starting to get wear marks.  Other wear marks are on the under side where the paddle rubs, I’m not too concerned with these. If you turned over the enforcer it would eliminate those two spots but now you would have the lower lug causing wear.  What I have done to help stop the selector wear is grind the area flat that rubs the link in semi and full position. The best would be to come up with a thin piece of metal that would snap on the link and protect the under side from wear. Any one else see wear in the area I’m talking about or is it just me  |
Thats good info to know ill have to look ate the unerside of my link next time i take it out. I dont know if it would be possible to frind down the selector as it might make it not function correctly but im not sure about that. |
You can grind down the selector with out affecting operation but it’s not fun. I tried to get a pic of mine but with out removing its very poor quality. I have 2 pictures below the top one is mine and the lower one is a link I got off the net. I believe you can see on the lower one that it was run with the letters down on a burst selector. It’s not bad hardly has any marks but in time I think it would end up like mine  Shot with FinePix S602 ZOOM  |
That's one of the things I also noticed. Also, with my link anyway, it seems when the paddle is moves the bottom still makes contact with the back of the link. However, if you flip the protector on the bottom and try to pivot the paddle all the contact is with the protector. It seems to me there would be absolutly no stress on the back of the link if the protector was on bottom. ETA: Maybe I need to provide pics to show what I'm talking about. I may work on this now. |
|
Yes I understand what you’re saying: the paddle actually pulls up some at the rear link and causes wear marks. Over time this could be a problem. I don’t think I’m going to run the enforcer under the link because of the way it pulls up at the rear. The enforcer will not bend of flex and when on top it puts an even pressure down on the link and pulls back with the front attachment point. If mounted under the link I’m concerned that it might put this downward pressure only at the front attachment point. At this time I’m mainly trying to eliminate the wear at the selector area and warning others to keep an eye on it. I’m thinking of some kind of snap on thin protector plate that would notch into the enforcer to hold position. It could be made to run the length from the selector to the paddle. |
|
I'm not necessarly concerned about wear marks. My thought was it actually would be "pulling" more on the enforcer than on the link itself, which I thought was the idea behind this. When the enforcer is on top and I have the link in this position (#1) there still seems to be play in the enforcer (IE: The enforcer will still slide back and forth). The play is very, very minimal. However when I push the paddle forward when the enforcer is on the bottom, there is absolutly no play at all. It seems that all the "pulling" force is put onto the enforcer and keeps any force off of the rear "fingers" of the link. As I understand it, this is the weakest part of the link. I thought that the enforcer was supposed to take all the stress off of the fingers and it doesn't seem to do it with the enforcer on top... That's all I'm saying. I may try to run it with the enforcer on the bottom later this week to see what happens. I'll be contacting KNS prior to see what exactly they say.  View of bottom of link when the paddle is in the "tripped" position. enforcer is on top. Seems to me that most of the pulling force is still on the fingers of the link.  Side view of link with enforcer is on bottom and paddle is in the tripped position.  View of bottom of link at an angle. Seems 100% of pulling force is on the enforcer. 
|
 Is that a worn spot on your link, looks like how mine started? Please post what KNS has to say. For now I’m going to run it on top and keep my selectors smooth and greased. In fact I’m going out today and burn some ammo I’ve got an AR47 that’s driving me nuts.  |
The worn spot on the link is from a upper that I hadn't filed enough off the lug. The upper would close but the link would not run at all. I filed off some more and it took car of the problem. It may wear some regardless I suppose. ETA: the spot I'm referring to is closer to the paddle than to the K in the KNS stamp on it. |
If it is a modified m16 hammer I had the same problem. I use the DPMS semi hammers now and have not had that problem  It's interesting to hear other people’s problems and fixes using a link. Some we’ve all experienced and some are new. Overall I’m very satisfied and have had no problems to speak of just concerned about wear and any damage.  |
The paperwork that came with the re-enforcer says to put the re-enforcer on top of the link. I ended up finding the paper right before I was going to call KNS and I figured that would be the answer they would give me so I never called. |
+1000 Mine has about 6K rounds on it and does not look any worse than the day i got it and i bought mine new in wrapper. All in all it seems to be holding up as well as my steel JCB RDIAS. |
Too bad theres no such thing as a new in the box transferable machine gun, even if it was a safe queen its still over 20 years old. |
Gunfighter, other than the ARs that fly off the shelves, at least half of the guns in inventory at distributors were actually manufactured at least a year ago, often longer. Check your dealer's stock room and he'll probably have a lot of two-, three, even five-year-old new guns that have never been out of their boxes. I have never seen a precise time limit to determine the moment when an unfired, unhandled gun in its original box and still with its protective materials in the barrel etc. suddenly ceases to become "new." Is it measured in seconds? Minutes? Hours? Days? Or months? Or is it a simple matter of the metal molecular strength deteriorating over time? Does it have a half-life, like uranium? To me, "NIB" means it is still in the box, the sealed factory packages have not been opened, it still has the protective wick in the barrel and the shipping oil/grease on the metal. I've seen some where the box is still sealed shut from the factory, though I don't mind if the box has been opened to verify the serial number, as long as the MG has not otherwise been handled. And yes, there are still some NIB MGs in this condition, manufactured in the 1960s, '70s and '80s. They are not cheap, but (to me, at least) they are NIB. YMMV.
|
|
There are genuine NIB guns out there. They are just not easy to find, and they do demand a premium. Ruben Mendiola, who has been around forever, is ex-fed and has an impeccable rep as an SOT who stands behind what he sells, finds a lot of them. Right now, he gets about $18k for a NIB Colt M16A1. A2s are a couple-five thou higher. |
| It all depends on what you want it for and how good you are at evaluating its condition when it comes to buying a firearm, used or new, machinegun or otherwise. I am pretty good at determining the condition of ARs (among others), so I wouldn't hesitate to buy a used Colt M-16 after giving it the once-twice-three times-over. Also, I do not buy with the intention of maintaining a firearm in NIB condition. That is TRULY a rich-man's hobby! I am a collector/shooter, and if the firearm was fired and well maintained, that is fine, as long as it is not priced at NIB levels. I almost never buy new guns, but always buy ones that are in mechanically-excellent condition. |
Armory Sponsor