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AR15.COM
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4/29/2007 6:06:56 AM EDT
Are swd RLL hardened?  If so how do they do it?  Just heat it up a bit?  Do they use a special metal?  It seems the only thing that could give you a problem is where the paddles attach--that area looks thin and looks to be the main area that takes the most stress.

Just wondering, i'm thinking about buying one in the future (now that m60 joe is working on a .22 set up) and I would like to know that the thin piece of metal will hold up and can be welded back together should anything ever break.  I know about the kns protector.  Does it help?  Did you need to mill the lower to fit the RLL and kns protector?  and what lower are you using.

Thanks

ETA--oops, i knew there was a sticky on the types RDIAS, RLL, RR but couldn't find it---go figure it was in the m16 section.  Anyhow, any additional comments will be appreciated.
5/1/2007 6:22:45 PM EDT
[#1]
WOW, no one has any knowledge or input about a RLL .
5/1/2007 6:31:03 PM EDT
[#2]
Your post borders on asking about how do I make an illegal machinegun, what steel should I use, and how do I harden it so it will last....    Illegal MGs and asking about how to make them on the internet is a great way to spend a lot of time in jail and huge amounts of money in fines and legal fees...  and then you would NEVER be able to own any gun again as long as you live.

Buy a LEGAL SWD LIGHTNING LINK!  You don't need to worry about the steel used as you can't change it anyways...  You also should not harden it but I would get the protector...  I have one for mine!

rLightning Links are about $8,000 and perhaps a little above that...  I love mine and I use it in 9mm, 223, 300 Whisper, and 7.62x39 at this point.  Others, and I am not one of the yet, also use the LL in the AR-10.

EDIT:  I am really slow... I didn't recognize your username earlier....  Carl, right?  Sorry, I know you know better then this and I know you are not asking to make an illegal MG and I jumped the gun on you...  your answers are above but I did come off a bit over the top...  Sorry, your username didn't stick
5/1/2007 7:38:49 PM EDT
[#3]
Quarterbore, this is carl, i just bought your mac 10.  I have no desire to make an illegal MG.  If it came across that way i am sorry to all.  Maybe that is why no one else replied?  My concern was if all of them were hardened in some way how can i tell if they were hardened.  I thought if they heated them they might have a bluish tint.  I have read everything on your web page about them but was looking for more info.  It is a hard pill to swallow 8k for i thin piece of metal and i want to know what to look out for before i buy. it seems to me the most vulnerable area is the little tangs where the paddle hooks in.  I also assume that if you put the kns protector on that i might need to mill the lower for the upper to fit.  If it is going to cost me a lot to modify the lower, get the correct bcg, and make the mods for 9mm bolts, get the safe, semi, full kit that it might end up costing as much as a registered lower?

Again, i know the rules of nfa and have no desire to have the atf knocking on my door and becoming friends with bubba and i apologize to all if it came out that way.
5/1/2007 7:53:44 PM EDT
[#4]
Yea... sorry... you know hoe this place works and I am sorry for not recognizing your username earlier.

The KNS Link protector is an expensive addition but it certainly protects the link very well.  The weak point on the LL is certainly the tabs at the back that hold the paddles.  The KNS protector fixes this because the protector takes the force of the paddle and transfers it directly to the body of the link.

As for the Select fire kit, all you need is an M16A2 fire control kit and a dremmel and you can make a SF kit in about 20-minutes.  It really is easy and cheap if you get a used M16A2 group.

The other parts, well I am not runing my 9mm upper with the link at the moment as my 9mm bolt is not ramped and it tends to bind.  I keep meaning to send it to M60Joe to get ramped but I am spending a ton of money on more urgent needs (I have the UZI to shoot full auto).

I think the advantage the LL shares with the DIAS is that you can use the same conversion devise with multiple receivers.  If you get the registered receiver you are stuck with the one that is registered.  In my case, I have four AR-15s that can  run the link (Pistol, Rifle, M4 Carbine, and 9mm Carbine) plus I have the AR-47 so it gives me full auto 7.62x39 with AK mags (75rd drums) plus like I said above I know there are pepl eout there that have modifed their AR-10s to  work with the link (legality of this has not been fully discussed with the BAFE I dare say - but logically I see no logical reason it would be an issue as it's the same FCG parts).

I like my link and I would take it over a RR without any reservation as it gives me more options today (I do wish I had a 22 conversion but that is why I purchased the Norrell) and in the future there may be even more guns that will run with the link.  Many of the AR-15 belt fed systems are also LL compatable so that still adds more options.

If I had the money, I would take the DIAS over the LL as it shares many of the same features but it is a more robust design BUT I don't see a way the DIAS can make the AR-10 run in full auto BUT I sure see how the LL can do it!

Hope ths helps more then my 1st reply...  Sorry Again!

Perhaps we can get together and you can check out my LL.
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