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Posted: 8/7/2015 9:16:03 AM EDT
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I am thinking about getting an sks with grenade launcher on the muzzle.
Would the rifle launched grenade come under the Nfa? As long as they have less then the 1/4 oz or totally innert? Second question, is the gas from the blank suffent enough to ignight a cannon fuse in the bottom of a grenade? This is what I am thinking about doing if it is legeal. Using PVC pipe to make the tube and maybe a plastic film can for the top of it with less then 1/4 oz of black powder and a cannon fuse to set off the charge. Or something similar but no black powder just weighted. Or maybe even make smoke rounds. |
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Quoted:
I am thinking about getting an sks with grenade launcher on the muzzle. Would the rifle launched grenade come under the Nfa? As long as they have less then the 1/4 oz or totally innert? Second question, is the gas from the blank suffent enough to ignight a cannon fuse in the bottom of a grenade? This is what I am thinking about doing if it is legeal. Using PVC pipe to make the tube and maybe a plastic film can for the top of it with less then 1/4 oz of black powder and a cannon fuse to set off the charge. Or something similar but no black powder just weighted. Or maybe even make smoke rounds. Bad, Bad, Bad BAD IDEA...... There are some specs here (Link left cold purposely) http://www.weaponsguild.com/forum/index.php?topic=44942.0 |
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It looks like you have to redgester to use it. Just FYI I was thinking PVC just to slide over the barrel and reinforce with duct tape. The charge will be in a plastic film can surrounded by hot melt glue. So no real chance is staduc discharge. The red makes the blue incorrect. |
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Quoted:
It looks like you have to redgester to use it. Just FYI I was thinking PVC just to slide over the barrel and reinforce with duct tape. The charge will be in a plastic film can surrounded by hot melt glue. So no real chance is staduc discharge. it isnt the static, as much as the pressure of the muzzle gasses..........PVC is a bad idea IMO |
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I guess maybe some emt conduit may be better Quoted:
I guess maybe some emt conduit may be better Here's one of the posts from WG That NATO Standard size allows the use of 1" OD aluminum tube with a 0.065" (1/16") wall for the body.
Fins can be molded from fiberglass using 4 shaped wood mold blocks, well waxed for releasing agent. A 1" hole is drilled at the intersection of the 4 blocks. Rubber bands squeeze the 4 blocks snuggly together along with the resined fiberglass strips and around the body tube. A hot lamp can speed the curing. The fins' roots wrap completely around the tube and hold very securely. Molding flash is sanded or ground off the fins. These fins are rather stiff and rarely break on impact. The aluminum tube is rough surface sanded or sandblasted at the tail end for better bonding of the 4 fins. The 4 wood mold blocks are made of 2" by 1.5"x1.5" wood lumber clamped together and drilled with a 1" center hole. The block edges and surfaces are sanded smooth with a small fin root radius/bevel and heavilly waxed all over. We used ordinary KIWI "Natural" color shoe polish as the secret release agent. Available at better grocery stores everywhere. The nose end plugs were 7/8" deep drawn automotive freeze plugs pressed into the nose end about 1/2" of the 6" long tubes and riv-screwed in place with 6 each 1/8"x1/4" riv screws (aka "drive rivets"). The nose shape is your choice. I suggest a 1.5" to 2" diameter sponge rubber ball bonded to a hardwood giant size "golf TE". VD in AZ registering is like here, nss to some areas depending on how many posts you have, that said their technical stuff is incredible if you are interested ino cost they do limit acceess depending on how many posts you have...that said, the information over there is incredible, if you're at all interested in "Rolling your Own" or even just parts kits builds..there's a guy who made a Yugo M-53 (Semi) Receiver out of a piece of Square tubing..and he did a Step-by step photo journal of the whole thing |
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