Thanks for doing this thread OP.
Now we have a solution for can cleaner and such.
Very impressed here.

This is water based, right?
Water dissolves Rocksett, so...
... I'd guess YES.

True story... Good call.

I think I'd definitely err on the side of redoing the hub install then.

I used plain red high temp loctite on mine… slathered it on.  and chucked the can up in a collet holder on the lathe and tightened the adapter as much as possible. It’s never coming off.

Okay, tried it on two cans, a Sparrow and a Gemtech Predator.  Placed in Mason jars and left overnight.

I clean Rimfire cans after every outing so it wasn't horribly bad, carbon was a wipe off operation. Some lead still stuck but it was easy to flake off with a dental pick.

The Gemtech is sealed and while it turned the solution black, I cannot tell just how much carbon it removed, but at least  it removed SOMETHING. I need to dig the borescope out of a box somewhere and take a look.

The bad news is, cleaning the two cans used about half the 32 oz bottle, which is about $20 in solution and as nasty as it is I don't think it's still viable.

This stuff is going to be awesome for cleaning revolver cylinders and the like with a nylon brush.   I think I'll stick to the Ultrasonic  and Simple Green for the cans.

I have used Sharp Shoot R lead remover in the past for barrels and such and it actually turns lead into a gray gooey paste you can remove with a patch, but it's just as expensive as this stuff and harder to order. (not on Amazon)

That's why I think making a capped PVC tube just wider in diameter than the suppressor might be a good way to go. Just drop the baffles, piston, spring and other guts in there.  The tube can be cleaned relatively easily with normal gun cleaning solutions.

For sealed suppressors, just plug the endcap with a cork and fill it up.

This place is always costing me money. Thanks, OP.

Here's an example of a slightly dirty Sparrow can.

I just sprayed it and let it soak for about 10 minutes.

Simple wipe down with a shop towel.

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I do like the AUG style safety on the spray nozzle. 😎

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I need to read up on this, but is there any type of metal, etc. that it should not be used on? It would be nice to be able to plug up the end of an Omega 300 and fill it with this cleaner.

Soaked my Outback II overnight. Solution was completely black in a few hours. Woke up this morning to give it a swirl and the can was stuck in place in the jar. Pulled it out and it turned the tube finish a yellowish green color. Looking down the tube, at least the blast baffle is now pink colored like transmission fluid. I rinsed it well and wiped the tube down with some oil as it had a very splotchy, dry look to it. Luckily it didn't take off the model or serial number. I was in a hurry to leave for work. Will post pics when I get home.

I asked a question a few posts back about galvanic corrosion, but I wonder if it is because you are soaking dissimilar metals together, particularly if they are in electrical contact with one another (touching). If I’m not mistaken, the Outback II is part aluminum, part titanium. I am not sure, but I suspect the aluminum might act as your anode and get corroded in that situation. I’m not sure how the added lead and copper factor into the mix. If you do it again, might be wise to separate components by material type, but I’m no chemist.

It's a sealed can.

Good point.  I've got my Kraken soaking now. I think that's aluminum and SS.

My mistake, maybe I’m thinking of the various upgrade programs they have done.

I've soaked my disassembled Kraken in the bucket o carb cleaner many times. I've left it in there a week or more when I got busy. No negative effects from that solution.

Just out of curiosity, is carb cleaner a water-based solution or more like a hydrocarbon/oil type solution?

Generally, aluminum in contact with steel (maybe titanium too) in ionized water (most water) is bad for the aluminum over time.

For wet steel structures like ship hulls, offshore platforms, subsea pipelines, boat engines, water heaters, etc., a concept called galvanic protection is employed that includes sacrificial anodes in electrical communication with the steel. The anodes corrode over time, which protects the steel structure (the steel structure is protected as the cathode). Those anodes are usually made of aluminum, magnesium, and/or zinc.

I think that is why many ultrasonic cleaners recommend distilled water. If you put an aluminum object in a stainless steel ultrasound machine with ionized water, there will be some galvanic action, but I think it depends on the level of ionization (sea water for example is notoriously corrosive in part because of all the salt ions). In contrast, distilled water does not have a lot of ions. ETA: Acid-based cleaning solutions have lots and lots of ions and will exacerbate galvanic issues. Think of a car battery being filled with acid. Galvanic action is basically how a battery works.

Seems Berrymans carb cleaner contains quite a bit of water. The MDS shows water as the main ingredient, at 40-55%.

Some of the pink color seems to have died down a bit, here are some pics.
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I would bet the pink is copper. Probably had some jacket the vaporized and deposited in the can and the solution dissolved or suspended it. As the solution got saturated it left the copper behind where it could. I would give a quick soak in copper remover and see if it goes away, or tuens the copper remover green.

That would be odd. Most copper solutions are blue or green depending on oxidation state.

Most of the pink rubbed off with an oil cloth and the stuff on the baffle turned black after I shot a few rounds through it

I'm impressed with this stuff. I soaked my Kraken for about 16hrs. I didn't have a ton of round through it, maybe 2000ish. But I only cleaned it once and that was with Hoppes and a toothbrush, which did very little.

After a 12 hr soak, I brushed the parts with a toothbrush then put them back in for another 4hrs. I wiped them down with paper towels, and there were still some hard deposits in the right angle corners on the aluminum baffles. I used a small screw driver to scrape them, soaked for another 10 minutes or so and these wiped right off. The only baffle that had a few hard deposits remaining is the SS blast baffle. I didn't bother trying to get that one super clean.

After a hot water rinse and dry, the rest of the suppressor looks brand new. The blast chamber and piston were pretty cruddy and this stuff made them look spotless.

I didn't take pictures, but I did weigh it. Before cleaning I got 9 3/4 oz (with a Griffin Cam-Lok piston). After cleaning it weighs 9 1/2 oz. So it removed 1/4 oz of junk with little effort.

It also cleaned up the tooth brush really well. It was black from cleaning guns with it for a couple years. After cleaning the suppressor it looks clean again.

Normally I use a Franklin tumbler with steel media and Dawn/Lemishine to clean the baffles and pistons of my Griffin suppressors and my Masks. Throw them in, set it for 30 minutes- done. They come out clean. I use brass brushes and Krud Kutter to clean out the tubes.

I've hesitated to disassemble and put my Dead Air Odessa in the FAT, since I really don't want to wear the anodized finish. I've used Slip's Carbon Killer, but it worked verrry slooowly.

My Odessa baffles had 300-400 rounds of S&B 150 and Lawman 147 through them:



First, I put the baffles in a glass jar with about 6oz of the stuff, and let it set for about 20 min.



Being an impatient sort, I pulled out baffle #1 (the worst, closest to the booster) and hit it with a green gun cleaning nylon toothbrush. After a couple minutes of scrubbing, I was way more impressed, than with Carbon Killer:



Buuut... I wasn't looking forward to doing that with all 11.

"What would happen.. if I put this cleaner in the ultrasonic?"

O.M.G. This is the magic recipe. I set up a sub pan, put them in for five minute cycles, and wiped them strongly with a paper towel in between, no brush scrubbing. Baffles 6-11 were 99% clean in a single cycle, and the rest took 2-3 additional cycles.



I ended up using about 14 oz of product, and a total of about an hour, to get the Odessa ~ 95% factory clean.







Yeah, I'm gonna keep a gallon of this on hand.

Odessa Plug #1: Go to Suppressortools.com and get yourself a set of Chase's powder coated wrenches. SO much better than the stock ones for realigning all those numbers, without scratching things up.

Odessa Plug #2: Get yourself some Suppressor Anti Seize from Griffin's website (McMaster Carr sells it in bulk, too, way cheaper, if you want a lot, part # 9438K1). Like that hot sauce commercial, "I use that s%^& on everything". I use the long wood Q-tips as an applicator.

Got my bottle in the mail yesterday from Scheels. Unfortunately, the monkeys at UPS must have done a number on the box. Nothing by an empty bottle and a soggy cardboard box.

Got my gallon the other day and decided to try it out today. Took my .22 and 9mm suppressors and put them in my ultra sonic with enough solution to just cover them. Ran ultra sonic for for a few and let soak. You could see the carbon rolling off the baffles.

After about three hours I took out baffles and did a very lite scrub. This stuff is amazing. Buy some now.

Uhg. That sucks.

Is it safe to use with ultrasonic on titanium baffles?

Great thread OP.  Excellent pics.  Thanks for posting.

Reading this post last week I decided to order from Amazon. Carbon has never been an issue as I use CLR in my ultrasonic cleaner and it's removed in 15-30 minutes. The part that caught my eye was copper and lead removal. My DA Mask just loads up with copper and lead to the point that I'll have to use the "Dip" to remove it.

Last Wednesday I put my baffles in a mason jar and soaked it for 24hrs checking periodically. The baffles were already cleaned of carbon but leading and copper was starting to build up.

After 24hrs absolute nothing was came off. I got distracted and put the baffles back into the solution and forgot about them till Sunday. When I removed them I was able to wipe all the fouling off. I was impressed to day the least.  

Confident with the baffle test I put in my tube, end caps and barrel adapter. After about an hour the front end cap and tube were cleaned. I've only cleaned these parts by hand and have never been able to get out all the fouling. The rear end cap and barrel adapter were still heavily leaded so I put them in the ultrasonic cleaner for 30 mins. Let the parts sit over night. This morning I ran the ultrasonic cleaner to another 30 mins this morning and took them out.

The DA Mask rear end cap was almost totally free of all the lead. 10 mins and a dental pick and it looked like new. Impressive since it has 10k rounds through it and it's only been cleaned manually. The finish while intact, my big worry, was slightly lighter even after being oiled.

The threaded adapter was totally stripped of the finish but a good amount of the lead was removed. BTW the adapter is the original which came with my P322.

What was the finish on the adapter?

I soaked all my entire Kraken (except the aluminum tube, which wasn't very dirty) for 24 hours and no finish issues. I even disassembled the 3-lug and threw it in the solution for 24 hours. Everything looks brand new.


Good info. I need to try that with my blast baffle next time.

I currently use CLR in a tougher freezer type ziploc bag and put it in a heated ultrasonic cleaner (in order to use a minimal amount of solution). I wonder how this would work using the same method with Breakthrough? Has anyone tried it this way?

Yes solutions, not freshly deposited copper that was suspended not dissolved.

Thanks for the review, OP.
I've got 2 cans that need cleaned and once again, this site has cost me money.

Holy cap this stuff is awesome. I received mine the other day. Although the bottle was damaged in shipping and 90% leaked out in the box (and my mailbox) I was able to salvage about a shot glass full. I put the blast baffle and second baffle from my ECCO machine rebuilt AA Pilot .22 can in a shot glass. It had about 500 rounds through it since the rebuild. I let it soak about 24 hours. They came out sparkling clean! No rubbing or scrubbing. The cool gold heat treat was gone, but the baffles are bright, shiny, stainless steel. If it worked this good on aluminum baffle I could have saved myself a recore. I will order more.

I’m curious to know if anyone who has bought the gallon container had a seal on the bottle under the cap. I bought one after reading some of the replies here. The bottle had no seal like what you’d typically see on a gallon bottle of windshield washer fluid, etc. I’ve tried this stuff out on a couple suppressors and the results seem lackluster. Hoping I didn’t get opened/watered down bottle.

I ordered a quart bottle off of Amazon.

I need to get out and get my suppressors dirty so I can use it.

side note, has anyone tried using it as a bore cleaner?

Can confirm my gallon bottle had no seal, either. I really expected one. I think the best results come from significant agitation- either ultrasonic, or by brushing, or vigorous wiping. Soaking produces colors in the solution relatively quickly, but thick carbon still needs some oomph/abrasion to get it dislodged.

Took me two soakings with a wiping in between to get off HEAVY deposits.

SIG says "Hard Coat Anodized" for the slide but mentions nothing about adapter.

Honestly if the suppressor end cap was soaking with the tube and front cap for the same amount of time I probably would have never noticed the color change.  

I had to try some of this stuff for myself so I bought the 16oz spray bottle from Amazon. Thing is, I don't have any filthy baffles as I just recently cleaned all my cans using a rotary wet tumbler with SS pins. The wet tumblers does a good enough job but certainly doesn't get everything and I've speculated that's because of the cleaning solution used (Same as brass = Hot water and a squirt of Dawn) isn't aggressive enough for burnt on carbon and lead found on suppressor baffles and that something more aggressive is needed?

Anyway, because I only bought a 16oz bottle and all my baffles are functionally clean enough, I figured I'd do a small test just to see so I took the 3 worst baffles from my Octane that still had a fair amount of burnt on carbon even after 2 separate 3-hour cycles in the tumbler and see what this stuff could do? I used a glass jar with a lid, dropped the baffles in and then poured just enough of the BTSC solution to cover them. Every now and again I would give the bottle a shake when I thought about it. Keep in mind I wasn't even attempting to do anything exact or scientific. Just to use it and see the results?

Originally the 3 baffles were in there for around 18 hours (+/-) before I checked them. When I did, I just checked one of them and could tell the solution removed everything off of the flat services but hard carbon remained in the nooks and crannies. I did try to scrap some of it off with a brass rod but that wasn't doing much. I had planned from the beginning to give them a full 24 hour soak so I dropped that baffle back in but as it turned out I got busy with work yesterday and forgot all about them until this morning.

When I first pulled them out, they pretty much looked the same as they did at the 18hr mark, that was until I wiped them down. With just a blue shop paper towel, everything, and I mean everything wiped right off and I was left with 3 basically brand new looking baffles...




This stuff is a winner IMO. I put the remaining 4 baffle from my Octane this morning using the same used solution as the first 3 soaked in. I know the used stuff probably isn't going to be as effective but they weren't as bad (dirty wise) and I plan to give them a full 48 hours.

The real question is, my blast baffle is stuck in the tube on my Octane and was going to leave it like that but now I'm considering soaking it in the BTSC. From what I've seen so far, I'm pretty sure it will allow me to get it out but my hesitation is, what will this product do to the finish of the tube? Jury seems to be out on that point so far?

So who has the best price on the gallon jug of this stuff?

Lanbo's did, but we cleaned them out by the end of page one. LOL

https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/026509074533?avad=234121_c35ba8615

Thanks I always forget about gun deals lol

Not as a bore cleaner, but it works great on revolver cylinder faces.

It works so well I’m thinking about dropping an ar bolt in it after a long range session.

Well it only took ~24 hours in the used solution to clean the remaining 4 baffles as clean as the first 3. One of these days I like to get a decent ultra sonic cleaner. I think that with this solution would be a great combo. I wish Hornaday still made the one like airman100 showed above. I know there are cheaper versions like the ones on Amazon but I like the over shape/size of that one.

Sill haven't decided if I'm going to soak the tube or not but I'm leaning that way. I figure worst case, if it does ruin the finish then at least I'll know and getting it refinished won't be that big of a deal?

Still wondering if this solution is safe to use on titanium?

Did you look?
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Tend to not trust company literature.  Has anyone tried it on a titanium can?

If it doesn't hurt aluminum, it very likely won't touch titanium.  Just in general, Titanium is very stable compared to aluminum, especially for chemical susceptibility.