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Actually, potentially dumb question - would the 1/2x28 "special" cam-lock be the correct one for a BHP barrel? I know they don't really have much of a shoulder, but they don't quite fit in the "compact" category that the website states...
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Quoted: Actually, potentially dumb question - would the 1/2x28 "special" cam-lock be the correct one for a BHP barrel? I know they don't really have much of a shoulder, but they don't quite fit in the "compact" category that the website states... View Quote If there is too little shoulder to function with a traditional 1/2-28 interface, the special will muzzle face index. So technically the special could work on all barrels, but the shoulder is better if you have it because muzzle faces are more likely to have dings, burrs, or to be carbon fouled. Those issues can complicate installation. |
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Gotcha...so yeah for a BHP barrel, the special would probably be the best one as I believe the only real way to index is off the face since there's not much of a shoulder at all...4th post down, from SilentMike here no less!
Edited to add - not that there's that much call to throw a can on a BHP, but if you grew up reading Robert Ludlum and/or Cold War spy novels...everyone needs a silenced Belgian automatic. |
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Quoted: Gotcha...so yeah for a BHP barrel, the special would probably be the best one as I believe the only real way to index is off the face since there's not much of a shoulder at all...4th post down, from SilentMike here no less! Edited to add - not that there's that much call to throw a can on a BHP, but if you grew up reading Robert Ludlum and/or Cold War spy novels...everyone needs a silenced Belgian automatic. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22779/20170414-100257-small-187612.jpg View Quote That’s nice. I should pick up a barrel for my BHP and CAM-LOK it up. |
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Quoted: Gotcha...so yeah for a BHP barrel, the special would probably be the best one as I believe the only real way to index is off the face since there's not much of a shoulder at all...4th post down, from SilentMike here no less! Edited to add - not that there's that much call to throw a can on a BHP, but if you grew up reading Robert Ludlum and/or Cold War spy novels...everyone needs a silenced Belgian automatic. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22779/20170414-100257-small-187612.jpg View Quote Nice. I did that with the Brownells barrel, the "special" adapter, and the CAM-LOK piston for the Odessa. Worked fine, for a while... but there was so much crap blown back into the slide from the subsonics that it would gum up the sear lever mechanism in my nearly new MkIII in less than 50 rounds, and start FTF. I got tired of ultrasonically cleaning the slide after every box... |
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Quoted: Nice. I did that with the Brownells barrel, the "special" adapter, and the CAM-LOK piston for the Odessa. Worked fine, for a while... but there was so much crap blown back into the slide from the subsonics that it would gum up the sear lever mechanism in my nearly new MkIII in less than 50 rounds, and start FTF. I got tired of ultrasonically cleaning the slide after every box... View Quote Really? I usually use mine with an AAC Illusion and I gotta say...my BHP is probably the 2nd cleanest shooting suppressed gun I've ever shot, coming in second only to my Walther P99 (with the same can) - I get virtually zero blowback, no crud on my hands, very little soot on my trigger finger (compared to an H&K, which is like shooting a coal fireplace with soot all over the damn place), etc. Even with my reloads which are very dirty (either Bullseye or Unique usually, sometimes CFE Pistol), very little soot on my hands and the gun doesn't seem to gum up that much more. FWIW I almost always shoot 147s. The longest shooting session I've shot with it in one go with a can on isn't very much admittedly; about 150 of them suppressed with a total of around 250 through it total in one sitting, but no function issues, no gumming up, no carbon to the face, no malfunctions, etc. Now...mine did pass through Novak, and the threaded Barsto barrel was fit by them, so that may have something to do with it too Anyway - back to the main thread - I'll order a special adapter after my first order comes through...I want to check it out with the things I mainly use, before I start ordering adapters for all the little one-offs I occasionally shoot |
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Quoted: Gotcha...so yeah for a BHP barrel, the special would probably be the best one as I believe the only real way to index is off the face since there's not much of a shoulder at all...4th post down, from SilentMike here no less! Edited to add - not that there's that much call to throw a can on a BHP, but if you grew up reading Robert Ludlum and/or Cold War spy novels...everyone needs a silenced Belgian automatic. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22779/20170414-100257-small-187612.jpg View Quote It’s not Star Wars but it is Attack of the Clones Attached File |
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Quoted: After a long day at work I did manage to squeeze in a quick trip to the range. The Osprey and a couple HK’s came with me. No issues whatsoever with the setup. Only put 50 rounds total through tonight but nothing came loose and POA/POI was good. Ran 10 rounds through the Mk23 as I only had one mag loaded with ball. All my other Mk23 mags are loaded with Winchester 230gr SXT DODIC A47X just like SOCOM intended....... I did put four mags through the HK45CT (Mk24). No issues moving back and forth other than the expected throwing the lever for alignment. It really is nice being able to move the Osprey around to different pistols without swapping pistons. I’ll probably end up shooting it more. Anyway, some quick range pics. https://i.imgur.com/4mBTiQJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/iXNtJYL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Vq8fNVD.jpg https://i.imgur.com/8BHAR5g.jpg Thanks again @Green0 for making this happen! ETA - I forgot to add that after tonight I have 500 trouble free 45acp rounds through various cans and hosts using CAM-LOK. Only “issue” I had was the .578-28 thread adapter coming loose on my TRP. That was resolved by putting a little more torque on it. Also, boy the Mk23 is a nice suppressed pistol. To quote Ferris Bueller, “It is so choice. If you have the means, I highly recommend picking one up.” ETA2 - one advantage of the thread adapters adding length appeared while I was testing the Osprey on different pistols. https://i.imgur.com/lYyd9kN.jpg Without the thread adapter and a conventional piston the Osprey would not clear the Surefire light. Now it will. Nice! View Quote Any pics of the HK45CT without the can? I'd like to see to get an idea of how much clearance a holster would have to have with the mount on. The comp would extend that further still. |
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Quoted: I posted this earlier in the thread but here you go: https://i.imgur.com/J4ytviO.jpg HK45CT on the bottom with the adapter. USP45C with factory metric barrel on top. View Quote Sorry, missed. Thanks for reposting. |
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Another dumb question - are there thread protectors available for these, or are the threads coarse/tough enough so that any training with one isn't likely to damage the adapter?
I mean, on the upside, even if one does get damaged it's easy enough to replace...which is an awesome feature by itself. |
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@Green0 What is the torque recommended for the Cam-Lok Carry Comp?
I tried these out on a pair of handguns yesterday and one comp went down range and was lost. When I checked the other, it was so loose, it just fell off. I was afraid to put a wrench on them and screw up the Cam-Lok threads so I just tightened them by hand, but recoil apparently loosened them up. I'm kind of afraid to use these now. On a positive note, the Cam-Lok barrel adapters worked great with the piston. I torqued the adapters to 20 ft-lbs on the barrel threads and they stayed tight. The Cam-Lok piston on my CGS Kraken clicked on and off and didn't loosen at all. I'm going to get more of these adapters for my other pistols. |
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Quoted: Another dumb question - are there thread protectors available for these, or are the threads coarse/tough enough so that any training with one isn't likely to damage the adapter? View Quote https://hansohnbrothers.com/shop/griffin-armament/accessories/muzzle-brakes/griffin-armament-cam-lok-carry-compensator/ |
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Quoted: Yes, use one of the Cam-Lok Carry Comp. https://hansohnbrothers.com/shop/griffin-armament/accessories/muzzle-brakes/griffin-armament-cam-lok-carry-compensator/ View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Another dumb question - are there thread protectors available for these, or are the threads coarse/tough enough so that any training with one isn't likely to damage the adapter? https://hansohnbrothers.com/shop/griffin-armament/accessories/muzzle-brakes/griffin-armament-cam-lok-carry-compensator/ That is an excellent suggestion! Expensive though |
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Quoted: @Green0 What is the torque recommended for the Cam-Lok Carry Comp? I tried these out on a pair of handguns yesterday and one comp went down range and was lost. When I checked the other, it was so loose, it just fell off. I was afraid to put a wrench on them and screw up the Cam-Lok threads so I just tightened them by hand, but recoil apparently loosened them up. I'm kind of afraid to use these now. View Quote I shot my 45 carry comp hand tightened, checking occasionally to make sure it didn't loosen since I've lost stuff down range before, but it was pretty solid on there. Didn't loosen over 100 rounds. Did you get the full turn like the silencer? |
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Quoted: I shot my 45 carry comp hand tightened, checking occasionally to make sure it didn't loosen since I've lost stuff down range before, but it was pretty solid on there. Didn't loosen over 100 rounds. Did you get the full turn like the silencer? View Quote They don't feel the same either. With the Griffin piston in the suppressor, I feel some friction as I turn it on the Cam-Lok adapter. The comp has no friction. It feels loose as it turns, until it just stops. |
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Quoted: Full turn? The Griffin piston in the suppressor turns about 1/4 turn. A rotation from say 3:00 to 12:00. (looking from the chamber end, not the muzzle) Interestingly the comp doesn't go a full 1/4 turn like the suppressor does. It goes a little past 1/8 turn and stops. Even with light pressure on a wrench, it doesn't want to go past that. I don't want to force it and damage the threads. That's why I'm wondering if I was supposed to torque it to a certain spec like the adapter. They don't feel the same either. With the Griffin piston in the suppressor, I feel some friction as I turn it on the Cam-Lok adapter. The comp has no friction. It feels loose as it turns, until it just stops. View Quote Not a "full 360degree turn", but the full turn like the silencer gets, like 1/4 or 1/3 or whatever, yeah. When you put the comp on, pull it a little away from the gun to get it above the taper a hair, then turn it? It should lock down just like the silencer does so I think that might be it. |
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Quoted: When you put the comp on, pull it a little away from the gun to get it above the taper a hair, then turn it? It should lock down just like the silencer does so I think that might be it. View Quote |
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Quoted: Yeah, I push it all the way on and pull it back a little until it can turn, just like the suppressor. It engages the threads on the Cam-Lok, but feels looser than the suppressor and doesn't turn as far, like I described above. View Quote We didn't specify a torque value to that, I would recommend very lightly snugging those with a wrench, the required torque is ~1.5 foot lb or about 18 in/lbs. If you hold the 11/16 wrench with a short grip with your thumb around the open end you should feel something like that same squishing feeling of the taper engaging that is felt with the silencer, and that will indicate the comp is mounted correctly. It is very low torque, but it's more than you can put on the comp with your fingers, and that's why the part has wrench flats. According to the Air Force https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/283347.pdf Hand torque on a 7/8" knob is 3-6 in lbs depending on the amount of grip afforded by the knob. It's not an exact correlation, but it shows you won't be likely to achieve adequate torque with fingers on the ~7/8" diameter part. |
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Quoted: We didn't specify a torque value to that, I would recommend very lightly snugging those with a wrench, the required torque is ~1.5 foot lb or about 18 in/lbs. If you hold the 11/16 wrench with a short grip with your thumb around the open end you should feel something like that same squishing feeling of the taper engaging that is felt with the silencer, and that will indicate the comp is mounted correctly. It is very low torque, but it's more than you can put on the comp with your fingers, and that's why the part has wrench flats. According to the Air Force https://apps.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/283347.pdf Hand torque on a 7/8" knob is 3-6 in lbs depending on the amount of grip afforded by the knob. It's not an exact correlation, but it shows you won't be likely to achieve adequate torque with fingers on the ~7/8" diameter part. View Quote You guys should consider putting up an FAQ or brief instructions on the website about how to use the Cam-Lok stuff. This thread has some good info. |
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I just got some Cam-lok parts in and wanted to confirm one thing. Part of it is my ignorance to thread specs. .578x28 (45cal) is a muzzle index and not shoulder index right? I mocked it up on both my Dan Wesson Wraith 1911 and my MP 45 2.0 and there is a small gap between the Cam-Lok and the tiny shoulder of the barrel.
@green0 I never noticed before because the thread protectors are recessed at the bottom and over this part. Thanks for any info. Happy New Years. ETA: is the Cam-Lok good to go on a Beretta 92? Not sure if it is categorized as a tilt barrel but figured I’d ask since the barre still moves back and forth. |
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Quoted: I just got some Cam-lok parts in and wanted to confirm one thing. Part of it is my ignorance to thread specs. .578x28 (45cal) is a muzzle index and not shoulder index right? I mocked it up on both my Dan Wesson Wraith 1911 and my MP 45 2.0 and there is a small gap between the Cam-Lok and the tiny shoulder of the barrel. @green0 I never noticed before because the thread protectors are recessed at the bottom and over this part. Thanks for any info. Happy New Years. ETA: is the Cam-Lok good to go on a Beretta 92? Not sure if it is categorized as a tilt barrel but figured I’d ask since the barre still moves back and forth. View Quote Can't answer the first part, but for the second part I assumed they meant "any non-fixed barrel handgun". Or "any handgun with a reciprocating or moving barrel, tilting or otherwise".. |
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Thanks I am assuming the same thing RE: non-fixed barrel but worth an ask. And it does look like all my muzzle devices and pistons for 578x28 are muzzle indexing too I guess I never noticed are looked closely before. I tried suppressing 45 acp for the first time with my CGS Nautilus and got an end cap graze. Hence trying out Camlok. Should be great
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Quoted: I just got some Cam-lok parts in and wanted to confirm one thing. Part of it is my ignorance to thread specs. .578x28 (45cal) is a muzzle index and not shoulder index right? I mocked it up on both my Dan Wesson Wraith 1911 and my MP 45 2.0 and there is a small gap between the Cam-Lok and the tiny shoulder of the barrel. @green0 I never noticed before because the thread protectors are recessed at the bottom and over this part. Thanks for any info. Happy New Years. ETA: is the Cam-Lok good to go on a Beretta 92? Not sure if it is categorized as a tilt barrel but figured I’d ask since the barre still moves back and forth. View Quote .578x28 is a muzzle face indexed thread, the Beretta 92 is good to go. |
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Quoted: We wanted it to be natural to install the cans and installation torque makes it not an issue to have right hand threads. The LH threads only exist because HK made a RH thread for the MK-23, and wanted to make sure the MK-23 OHG could not be installed on an HK tactical .45. The rest of the Left hand HK threads were probably intended to make people think Left hand threads were correct which wasn't really the case. The MK-23 just place-held the correct threads. View Quote HK Parts sells .578 X 28 RH thread barrels. What CAM-LOK Ghost M compatible piston could work with that? |
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Quoted: ready to try out this compensator now. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/18568/50B2A96D-0EEA-46D5-9FA8-2919322B70A3-1770287.jpg View Quote Looks... familiar |
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You guys are killing me with the VP9L’s all pimped out. I’ve got to get a Cam-Lok and carry comp setup for my G17 w/ALG 6 second mount. It will be sweet......
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Quoted: You guys are killing me with the VP9L’s all pimped out. I’ve got to get a Cam-Lok and carry comp setup for my G17 w/ALG 6 second mount. It will be sweet...... View Quote I am so happy with CAM-LOK, I spent the $$$ with ECCO Machine to convert 2 pistol cans to custom boosters just so they can use it. Granted, a large portion of that was rebuilding my YHM Cobra. I am about $2,000 into CAM-LOK parts and ECCO Machine costs, and couldnt be happier. |
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Quoted: I am so happy with CAM-LOK, I spent the $$$ with ECCO Machine to convert 2 pistol cans to custom boosters just so they can use it. Granted, a large portion of that was rebuilding my YHM Cobra. I am about $2,000 into CAM-LOK parts and ECCO Machine costs, and couldnt be happier. View Quote Oh, I’ve got plenty of the Cam-Lok crack. Just gotta get more....... |
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does anyone running the cam lok barrel adapters use safariland holster's ? any issue's ?
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Quoted: does anyone running the cam lok barrel adapters use safariland holster's ? any issue's ? View Quote Yes, but all of my Safariland holsters are the open style. And yes, some of my threaded barrel pistols poke out beyond the end of the holster. Cam-Lok didn’t change anything in that regard. |
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I have an epic Safariland holster, but then found it wouldn't accommodate suppressor tall sights on my G17. Those Trijicon sights are perfectly regulated to the extent I can go like 1 out of 2 on full size IPSC steel at 250 yards offhand with high velocity 124 grain ammo. It's too bad the holster doesn't fit the sights. Except for the flexible (not rigid) rail for mounting IR lasers, the G17 is an incredibly effective platform.
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All my new OWB SL holsters support suppressor-height sights, such as my VP9TOR. And the support the optics. My SROs are tight(easy fix), but my RMRs fit perfect.
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sounds like there should be no problems with 6390rds style holsters then. i just wanted to make sure there were no dimensional problems with the cam lock getting caught up on the als system drawing or holstering. i guess i could just pick one up and give it a try
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Well, got my CAM-LOK last week and made it to the range today. One good result, one not so good.
1) Kimber Desert Warrior 45 ACP using .578x28 CAM-LOK system and Rugged Obsidian 45. No issues. Grouping great at 10 yds. 2) M&P Pro Core 5" 9mm with Storm Lake Barrel. 1/2"x28 CAM-LOK system and Rugged Obsidian 9. Hitting 4-5" left of point of aim with suppressor installed. Federal 147 and Federal 124. Pulled can and found a bunch of copper shavings inside and a rub mark on end cap. Baffles look OK but I am going to contact Rugged as well. Two other issues as well. At one point the can did not lock on properly and when slide went forward, the can flew out and hit the concrete, damaging the tube a little. Also, when went to remove can, the tube unscrewed from the booster and I had the devil of a time getting the CAM-LOK removed. When I got home, I removed the CAM-LOK and checked alignment using the Rugged piston and it all looks good. CAM-LOK was installed at 25 ft-lbs of torque. |
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Quoted: Well, got my CAM-LOK last week and made it to the range today. One good result, one not so good. 1) Kimber Desert Warrior 45 ACP using .578x28 CAM-LOK system and Rugged Obsidian 45. No issues. Grouping great at 10 yds. 2) M&P Pro Core 5" 9mm with Storm Lake Barrel. 1/2"x28 CAM-LOK system and Rugged Obsidian 9. Hitting 4-5" left of point of aim with suppressor installed. Federal 147 and Federal 124. Pulled can and found a bunch of copper shavings inside and a rub mark on end cap. Baffles look OK but I am going to contact Rugged as well. Two other issues as well. At one point the can did not lock on properly and when slide went forward, the can flew out and hit the concrete, damaging the tube a little. Also, when went to remove can, the tube unscrewed from the booster and I had the devil of a time getting the CAM-LOK removed. When I got home, I removed the CAM-LOK and checked alignment using the Rugged piston and it all looks good. CAM-LOK was installed at 25 ft-lbs of torque. View Quote I'm sorry you had issues with the system. Please contact our customer service via our website. The CAM-LOK adaptor style will dictate what is needed to check- if you got the special, that will require a check of your barrel muzzle face- often times the barrel muzzle faces have thick carbon or dings (which can deform material proud), or can have chamfers so big that the barrel face is a bladed edge of material, and those conditions can effect your mounting alignment because you need perpendicularity and flatness of ~.0004" or better to have good alignment happen. If you got the 1/2x28 standard that would be like a normal 1/2x28 piston in how it locks up on the thread shoulder and then would bring into question the piston and adaptor and would warrant at that point shipping the can and barrel for a customer service inspection to trouble shoot that. That is an option in either senario- shipping the can, parts and barrel to CS to let them look at it. We sell swiss CNC turned and ground alignment rods, so they have those handy for inspecting alignment. I think install torque recommendation is 20ft lbs. I wouldn't expect that to be a determining factor in a problem though (overtightening). Overtightening on a barrel face is probably not the best for a barrel with a thin bladed edge of a face. It also sounds like you may have really aggressively tightened the suppressor on the camlok adapter. Very few end users have had issues with over-tightening (popping the adapter through the threaded area to the un-threaded area). You should have no trouble getting the can off if you install it with moderate torque almost like the torque you would use to put the lid on a 20 ounce soda bottle. The pistons aren't very thick because there is very little room to execute this system, and you can actually temporarily very slightly deform the piston at the unthreaded areas like squeezing a spring-tempered tube in a trianglular fashion, by over-tightening the piston if you are quite strong. That allows the ID thread to change shape slightly and effects the tolerancing of the system in ways that could in extreme cases allow the threads to pop through engagement. Overtightening shouldn't effect alignment, because it doesn't put the device out of alignment. About the only other thing I could think of that would result in the suppressor falling off, is meshing the threads somewhere that doesn't cause taper contact. There are like three or four threads, so they could be meshed in a different area, but that wouldn't result in the system getting "tight" while turning it. Turning through to the next thread could cause a temporary stop as you run into the next set of threads, but it wouldn't be "tight" so the ability to perceive that as a false positive is diminished pretty severely. |
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Quoted: I'm sorry you had issues with the system. Please contact our customer service via our website. The CAM-LOK adaptor style will dictate what is needed to check- if you got the special, that will require a check of your barrel muzzle face- often times the barrel muzzle faces have thick carbon or dings (which can deform material proud), or can have chamfers so big that the barrel face is a bladed edge of material, and those conditions can effect your mounting alignment because you need perpendicularity and flatness of ~.0004" or better to have good alignment happen. View Quote Thank you for the quick response. I am thinking it was tolerance stacking. It is the standard adapter and references off the shoulder. Shoulder is pretty beefy so hope that was not an issue. Unfortunately, since Storm Lake went out of business, if the shoulder has deformed, it may be a bigger issue. I have reached out to Rugged about getting the can inspected. Will see what they say. I never overtightened enough to get it past the threads. Only issue I had was one time, not ensuring it was on correctly (threads did not engage) so it came off when the slide went forward and the can hit the concrete. Dinged the front of the tube. I have sent an email to CS and will see what they say. Will also followup with phone call after the weekend. Such is life. -Steve |
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Well, both companies have been great to work with. Suppressor is on its way back to Rugged for inspection and repair as needed. CAM-LOK parts will be going in mail today to Griffin.
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We finished manufacturing restock CAM-LOK® adapters and added 1/2-28 smg/pcc barrel adapters compatible with .630 length threads, and 1/2-36 smg/pcc barrel adapters. That machine turned over from CAM-LOK® barrel adapters now to standard 1/2-28 three lug barrel adapters.
Those parts are headed to nitride and should be available soon. We’re going to be running pistons in a few weeks and will eventually make CAM-LOK® fixed mounts also. The machine we’re putting those into is running SDQD suppressor rear mounts right now, but should be done soon. |
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Quoted: Hoping the P365 barrels show up in rotation soon. View Quote They did start machining those a few days ago. We had a 5 axis machine occupied with charging handles for a long time and that cost some ability to keep the 365 barrels in stock. They should be about 3 weeks out on account of Nitride. |
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