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Posted: 2/7/2016 6:24:09 AM EDT
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I have an FNAR. I would like to get the barrel threaded for a compensator for 3 gun and a silencer for hunting.
1.....I have read this takes more equipment to thread. Who can do the work and what does it involve for me as far as disassembly? 2.....I have read about a compensator causing cycling issues with the FNAR. Is this true and how would that little back pressure matter? 3.....I have also read that it may be difficult to tune the gas system for a silencer. I might get a direct thread can and just leave the gun set up as a full time host. I can tell swapping back and forth is not a good idea with this action. I am thinking Omega or Harvester for very light weight.. I already have YHM ULT, but that's kinda small in gas volume I would think. |
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I'll take a stab at it - but I'm no means an expert.
1.....I have read this takes more equipment to thread. Who can do the work and what does it involve for me as far as disassembly? It's my understanding that to thread a barrel, the barrel is taken off, put in a lathe (sp), and spun around to thread it. So, you or your gun smith will need to take the barrel off anyway. 2.....I have read about a compensator causing cycling issues with the FNAR. Is this true and how would that little back pressure matter? In general, a supressor, as you would think, increases the back pressure on an action, as the gases have a more difficult time leaving the system. Now I've run supressors on/off AR's, in 556/68/.300 BO, in both long and short barrel versions, and have not had any issues with cycling. Older cans I belive had more backpressure than current ones. I have quite a few Surefire cans, which are said to have a lower amount of backpressure, but my Specwar K don't have any issues on/off either. 3.....I have also read that it may be difficult to tune the gas system for a silencer. I might get a direct thread can and just leave the gun set up as a full time host. I can tell swapping back and forth is not a good idea with this action. I am thinking Omega or Harvester for very light weight.. I already have YHM ULT, but that's kinda small in gas volume I would think. The Omega is a fine can, and I believe (don't know for sure) you can run it in either direct thread or a mount, so you could verify, and then try it out both ways. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
I'll take a stab at it - but I'm no means an expert. 1.....I have read this takes more equipment to thread. Who can do the work and what does it involve for me as far as disassembly? It's my understanding that to thread a barrel, the barrel is taken off, put in a lathe (sp), and spun around to thread it. So, you or your gun smith will need to take the barrel off anyway. 2.....I have read about a compensator causing cycling issues with the FNAR. Is this true and how would that little back pressure matter? In general, a supressor, as you would think, increases the back pressure on an action, as the gases have a more difficult time leaving the system. Now I've run supressors on/off AR's, in 556/68/.300 BO, in both long and short barrel versions, and have not had any issues with cycling. Older cans I belive had more backpressure than current ones. I have quite a few Surefire cans, which are said to have a lower amount of backpressure, but my Specwar K don't have any issues on/off either. 3.....I have also read that it may be difficult to tune the gas system for a silencer. I might get a direct thread can and just leave the gun set up as a full time host. I can tell swapping back and forth is not a good idea with this action. I am thinking Omega or Harvester for very light weight.. I already have YHM ULT, but that's kinda small in gas volume I would think. The Omega is a fine can, and I believe (don't know for sure) you can run it in either direct thread or a mount, so you could verify, and then try it out both ways. Good luck. #1- I have already read this barrel takes extra equipment for some reason. AR barrels are a piece of cake, but apparently not this action. Must be related to the attached gas block. On #2, I was talking about compensators, not suppressors/silencers. I did a google search and lost the link where someone had theirs threaded and had cycle troubles with a mere muzzle break, but not with a bare muzzle. That sounds hard to believe. |
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I went through some of the same struggles to get my Browning BAR ShortTrac suppressed. The FNAR and new BAR share the same platform and work great suppressed as they are supplied from the factory with an adjustable gas block. I read a lot of forum posts saying that it would not work or would be a terrible idea, but none of them had ever seen one, much less fired one. I took the plunge with mine and it turned out so well that I felt compelled to do a build thread to help out other BAR/FNAR owners. I've killed a deer, several coyotes, and numerous hogs after completing the project. I joined this forum to try to help you out, this is my first post! Let me know if you have any other questions.
Step 1) Follow the disassembly steps in my thread below. Step 2) Send the reciever/barrel to Morgan at Class 3 Machining (Dallas area, Texas). Step 3) Reassemble and adjust gas block to suite your suppressor/ammo combination. http://www.texasguntalk.com/forums/class-iii-nfa/67469-suppressed-browning-bar-shorttrac-%96-build-instructions-%96-long.html |
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Quoted:
I went through some of the same struggles to get my Browning BAR ShortTrac suppressed. The FNAR and new BAR share the same platform and work great suppressed as they are supplied from the factory with an adjustable gas block. I read a lot of forum posts saying that it would not work or would be a terrible idea, but none of them had ever seen one, much less fired one. I took the plunge with mine and it turned out so well that I felt compelled to do a build thread to help out other BAR/FNAR owners. I've killed a deer, several coyotes, and numerous hogs after completing the project. I joined this forum to try to help you out, this is my first post! Let me know if you have any other questions. Step 1) Follow the disassembly steps in my thread below. Step 2) Send the reciever/barrel to Morgan at Class 3 Machining (Dallas area, Texas). Step 3) Reassemble and adjust gas block to suite your suppressor/ammo combination. http://www.texasguntalk.com/forums/class-iii-nfa/67469-suppressed-browning-bar-shorttrac-%96-build-instructions-%96-long.html WOW. thank you. I was beginning to wonder If I had messed up on platform choice. Google does not bring up much encouragement. My next step is glass and grouping. If this thing will hit 1MOA its getting a can based off your info. If it does not group well, 3 gun or I'll sell it....maybe get dies and reload to try for MOA. QUESTION. is Hornady Superformance ok in this action? Should I turn the gas down first before trying Superformance? I have a 20" barrel. |
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Quoted:
QUESTION. is Hornady Superformance ok in this action? Should I turn the gas down first before trying Superformance? I have a 20" barrel. While i don't think any factory loading will hurt your FNAR I do know my rifle was supplied way overgassed. The Superformance functioned fine in my rifle but I found they didn't group well. I'm sure its a combination of the velocity, bullet profile, and barrel twist. Faster doesn't always equal a tighter group. The tightest grouping factory loads for my rifle is the 150 gr Hornady American Whitetail and the 150 gr Winchester Ballistic Silvertip. I know it may sound crazy that American Whitetail would group tight but that's what happened. Remember the BAR/FNAR have 1 in 12 twist barrels that lend themselves to the lighter side of .308 bullet weights. I did try factory loadings from 130 gr all the way up to 180 gr and found 150 gr to be the sweet spot, which is good as that is my preferred hunting weight. My testing included the 168 gr Federal Gold Medal Match which I expected to be the most accurate (it is with my M1A) but that wasn't the case for this rifle. I'm currently shooting up my factory loads to make way for hand loads. I'm not sure if you have the standard (16" barrel) or heavy (20") barrel but they should both be more accurate than my BAR originally was with its thin profile 22" barrel. I believe chopping mine from 22" to 17.5" greatly improved my groupings due to increasing rigidity (at the sacrifice of velocity).This will not really be a factor for yours as the FNAR barrel should resist barrel whip and stringing due to the heavier profile. |
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