Armory Sponsor
Posted: 5/24/2014 11:32:31 AM EDT
|
Been riding the AAC train almost exclusively and have installed dozens of their suppressor mounts, as well as a bunch of non suppressor flash hiders and brakes, but I need some help with this one. Normally use torque wrench and AAC's Blackout tool which makes it idiot proof, however I picked up a 762 SPECWAR and a few extra mounts for a few extra rifles, one of which is a Noveske N6. My problem is that the diameter of the FH where it threads onto the barrel and has the flats is the exact same diameter as the N6 barrel. This wouldn't be a problem is the neck with the flats was long enough for a wrench like the .308 Vortex I just removed, but it's too short for any of my wrenches to fit without extending beyond the flats and onto the barrel.
Typically when I get into a jamb I hit up a close friend whose a very experienced smith but the A-hole is flyfishing and turkey hunting in CO; what an ass 
Any thought/help would be greatly appreciated as I'm planning on shooting this thing tomorrow and I'm not about to experiment on an N6. |
|
I use Tapco's Intrafuse AR Armorer's tool to install my Specwar flash hiders/muzzle brakes. I bead blasted the green epoxy paint off the "muzzle device" portion and it's just thin enough to install their flash hiders. But I'm sure there plenty of thin wrenches out there though that could also do the job. |
|
I've got a dremel and already thought about altering one of my torque wrench heads; may do this. Got several armorers wrenches but hadn't thought about removing some material from one of them. Hit local hardware store but didn't have any wrenches thin enough ( not much of a hardware store really, but it's all we've got out here ). Contemplating making one out of 1/4" steel plate but I really wanted to relax tonight.
Thanks for the input gents! |
|
Quoted:
Use something to stick into the actual flash suppressors like a file or screwdriver. That's what I did to mine. Can't say I haven't ever done that to remove a stuborn muzzle device, but putting torque on one while installing it probably isn't a good idea, and especially when it's a suppressor mount. I'm not too worried about bumps and bruises on the majority of my firearms but this one is a little different. |
|
I responded to basically the same thread in the SiCo forum, but I'll put it here as well.
This may be the same kind of Tapco wrench mentioned above (and mine is also green). I'd think it's thin enough? 
|
|
Quoted:
Can't say I haven't ever done that to remove a stuborn muzzle device, but putting torque on one while installing it probably isn't a good idea, and especially when it's a suppressor mount. I'm not too worried about bumps and bruises on the majority of my firearms but this one is a little different. Quoted:
Quoted:
Use something to stick into the actual flash suppressors like a file or screwdriver. That's what I did to mine. Can't say I haven't ever done that to remove a stuborn muzzle device, but putting torque on one while installing it probably isn't a good idea, and especially when it's a suppressor mount. I'm not too worried about bumps and bruises on the majority of my firearms but this one is a little different. It won't hurt it at all. The flash hider doesn't have to be timed just put on and torqued to like 15-20ft per lbs or something like that. Not much at all. I promise it will not even put a mark on the thing and definitely won't bend the flash hider tongs or whatever you call them. |
|
I had a similar experience. I ended up getting a 3/4" wrench at the pawn shop for $1.00 and grinding it down a bit on the belt sander Cheap enough.
Previous thread with the same issue. |
| He posted the same question in the SiCo forum. Posted his resolution (took a Dremel to a wrench) there, but not here. |
Armory Sponsor