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4/13/2014 9:43:50 PM EDT
So I have been trying to decide on which route to take between the Saker and Specwar 762 can and the only thing that turned me off to the Specwar was the fact it couldn't be mounted under a rail due to the tension ring. So I started thinking of finding a rail that it would fit under and just having a good shop locally cut out a part of the rail on either side where the lock ring is. Then I started thinking a little more outside the box for something that doesn't need modification to work since everything I have seen said basically it couldn't be done. Well I think I found it and it's actually a rather simple and "duh" kinda thing if there's nothing I'm missing here.

I have a Seekins and a Spikes SAR rail on hand that I have a tirant and a sparrow under. I was looking at those rail and correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't I simply install the can on the barrel, the. Install the rail over both the can and barrel? I'm speaking of the BAR for this as opposed to the SAR here. The rail is attached to the barrel nut (well collar rather) by 4 screws, 2 on top and 2 on the bottom. The diameter of the rail appears to be enough to clear the diameter of the can (1.5"). I don't plan on swapping it around often, and even if I did it would simply just be removing and reinstalling 4 screws which would easily be completed at the range.

Is there something I'm missing here, or would this rather simple solution work?

Please let's not get this to a pick the saker or any other can, it's simply a "what am I missing if anything".
4/13/2014 10:39:17 PM EDT
[#1]
I am running on almost 40 hours straight no sleep right now (work nightmare) so I think I understand where you are going but could be off - if so I have thought of this same setup. I just got the SpecWar 762 and my LWRC has a very easily removable rail. I was thinking this weekend about a shorter barrel, attaching the SpecWar, and then putting the rail on over it. If I want to pull it off I just unscrew in two places (by hand) and remove the rail them can. Not sure why it came to mind but I think it may work and give it the integrated look. Eager to see what feedback you get here.
4/13/2014 11:33:55 PM EDT
[#2]
It will work. The bar rail ID is 1.8 and the specwar Tension ring is almost 1.6 and change. Just keep handy a allen key for the screws and your golden.
4/13/2014 11:44:20 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote History
Quoted:
It will work. The bar rail ID is 1.8 and the specwar Tension ring is almost 1.6 and change. Just keep handy a allen key for the screws and your golden.
View Quote


That's what I thought. Just wanted to run it by the masses to see if there was maybe something I was missing here. It just seemed like too good to be true lol
4/14/2014 4:47:28 PM EDT
[#4]
The newer Seekins MCSR V2 may be the better option depending on what you're looking for?  I prefer to add rail pieces where I want them as opposed to have to wrap my hand around a big quad rail.  It's a keymod so that's a factor if you already have rail pieces sitting around doing nothing that's not keymod.  But it has the same 1.8ID that the BAR does.

I'm building a 300BO pistol (to be SBR'd) at the moment and I believe that's the route I'm going, the MCSR V2.  And if its just too much of a PITA to add/remove the can by poking it with a stick through the holes I'll swap the rail over to a MOE build I have and go with a shorter one.  I still haven't decided on barrel length, if RA doesn't get the 8.5 ultra match in stock soon I'll just say screw it and go with the 10.5 I'm also considering.    

But I really hope it works out, I really like the look of the longer forearm and the can inside it and I need the length for comfort, rail space and general look.

There's also a consideration of heat, not as big a deal with suppressed 300BO but mag dumps with a 5.56, your hand may get a little toasty.
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