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Posted: 10/17/2013 7:59:51 AM EDT
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I always tend to ask this in the thick of another thread where more important things are being discussed and I'm a suppressor noob so....
I've got an SDN6 coming whenever the government graces me with permission... and I wanted to know people's opinions on the various 51T AAC muzzle devices. I will most likely be doing 99% of my shooting from 16" barrels, maybe some rapid fire, but likely no full-auto. Thanks in advance... |
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Quoted:
I always tend to ask this in the thick of another thread where more important things are being discussed and I'm a suppressor noob so.... I've got an SDN6 coming whenever the government graces me with permission... and I wanted to know people's opinions on the various 51T AAC muzzle devices. I will most likely be doing 99% of my shooting from 16" barrels, maybe some rapid fire, but likely no full-auto. Thanks in advance... What caliber? If it's a .308, I'd run a brake. If it's a 5.56, a flash hider should be just fine. If it's a 300 BLK, a brake would be totally unnecessary. |
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I have the Blackout, Brakeout, and Muzzle Brake each in 5.56 and 7.62 (my SDN-6 is truly my multi purpose can). They are on AR's from 8" to 16", 18" .308 AR, M1A, a Handi-Rifle, and a bolt gun.
The Brakeouts I have on a 16" AR and Remington 700 .308 are fine but I think if I did it all over again I would rather spend the extra $50 and get the full brake, or skip having to time the Brakeout with the washers and just screw/glue on a Blackout FH. My Blackouts all "ping" when I send the bolt home but they do not ping on any of my rifles when I'm shooting (unsuppressed obviously). If you've got the money, go with the brake. I've got one on a 16" mid-length gas system AR and the first time I shot it, I thought I had fired a squib load. The recoil was non-existant. I dont care about the blast from the brake because if it's really going to be a problem I just screw on the can. The one pain is timing it. I have been able to get them timed relatively easy but I had a buddy who couldnt get the right combination of washers timed to save his life. Like other's have said, you can't go wrong with any of them but if you want to spend less I'd go the Blackout, if you can afford $150, go the brake. BTW, they all vary on the amount of "wobble" when I screw on the can but none have been so much as to cause major POI shifts or baffle strikes. All seem to be the typical amount reported by other 51T users. I've done the "polishing" of the mating surfaces on a few to make the can lock up tighter but that was more just to satisfy curiosity. It's definitely not necessary. |
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Quoted:
What caliber? If it's a .308, I'd run a brake. If it's a 5.56, a flash hider should be just fine. If it's a 300 BLK, a brake would be totally unnecessary. Quoted:
Quoted:
I always tend to ask this in the thick of another thread where more important things are being discussed and I'm a suppressor noob so.... I've got an SDN6 coming whenever the government graces me with permission... and I wanted to know people's opinions on the various 51T AAC muzzle devices. I will most likely be doing 99% of my shooting from 16" barrels, maybe some rapid fire, but likely no full-auto. Thanks in advance... What caliber? If it's a .308, I'd run a brake. If it's a 5.56, a flash hider should be just fine. If it's a 300 BLK, a brake would be totally unnecessary. Oops, yeah, this will be for my 5.56 rifles. Good to know for the .308 though... |
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Quoted:
I have the Blackout, Brakeout, and Muzzle Brake each in 5.56 and 7.62 (my SDN-6 is truly my multi purpose can). They are on AR's from 8" to 16", 18" .308 AR, M1A, a Handi-Rifle, and a bolt gun. The Brakeouts I have on a 16" AR and Remington 700 .308 are fine but I think if I did it all over again I would rather spend the extra $50 and get the full brake, or skip having to time the Brakeout with the washers and just screw/glue on a Blackout FH. My Blackouts all "ping" when I send the bolt home but they do not ping on any of my rifles when I'm shooting (unsuppressed obviously). If you've got the money, go with the brake. I've got one on a 16" mid-length gas system AR and the first time I shot it, I thought I had fired a squib load. The recoil was non-existant. I dont care about the blast from the brake because if it's really going to be a problem I just screw on the can. The one pain is timing it. I have been able to get them timed relatively easy but I had a buddy who couldnt get the right combination of washers timed to save his life. Like other's have said, you can't go wrong with any of them but if you want to spend less I'd go the Blackout, if you can afford $150, go the brake. BTW, they all vary on the amount of "wobble" when I screw on the can but none have been so much as to cause major POI shifts or baffle strikes. All seem to be the typical amount reported by other 51T users. I've done the "polishing" of the mating surfaces on a few to make the can lock up tighter but that was more just to satisfy curiosity. It's definitely not necessary. Very helpful, thank you. What I will likely do is put the blackout on my 16" HBAR since there's a higher likelihood of that being shot unsuppressed due to the weight. I'll go with a brake on the new 16" build I've got in the works, which will probably get used a whole lot more since it'll be a combination of light and "beater". Thanks! |
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Flash hider - channels the gas stream into 3 "jets". Leaves 3 bite marks on short barrel 5.56/7.62 guns in the blast baffle. Will ping as the tines are equal length resulting in a tuning fork effect.
Muzzle brake - needed on short barrels since you can replace your muzzle brake cheaper and faster than a new silencer. Nice recoil reduction if you think its needed. Giant fireball and loud as crap to people shooting next to you. Breakout - decent job as a brake, moderate job as a flash hider. |
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I will say this....
The AAC 51T flash hider will typicaly have a ring associated with shooting suppressed....no big deal. The other thing to think about, but this is just a brake vs. flash hider conversation, is that with a muzzle device on a 16" you will go deaf from shooting without the can and yet you will gain a lot of control from the break. The flash hider, on the other hand, focuses on reducing flash. The muzzle break is my vote for 11.5" and up. Of course, for a duty type role I would suggest the FH over the brake since it will not interfere with other shooters around you. Like everything firearm related, each has its perks. I am using a 51T Brakeout for my 10.3" DDMK18. |
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The muzzle break is my vote for 11.5" and up. Interested in why you suggest this? What I'm gathering (possibly incorrectly) from the other posts here is that a longer barrel somewhat mitigates the need for a brake to prevent damage to the blast baffle in the can and that going with the flash hider is a more "all around" option if it is to be shot without the can. |
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I say that because I don't own any AR uppers beyond 14.5"....so I guess it made sense to me at the time without clarifying...
To clarify, the brake does help with recoil, albeit the .223/5.56 is not a beast in the recoil department by any means. A decent break on a 14.5"-16" practically controls itself...It all depends on its intended use and not everyone's is particularly the same. |
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Quoted:
I say that because I don't own any AR uppers beyond 14.5"....so I guess it made sense to me at the time without clarifying... To clarify, the brake does help with recoil, albeit the .223/5.56 is not a beast in the recoil department by any means. A decent break on a 14.5"-16" practically controls itself...It all depends on its intended use and not everyone's is particularly the same. Ah, OK. I'm not worried about recoil at all, more the erosion that could happen to the blast baffle in the suppressor. |
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Ah, OK. I'm not worried about recoil at all, more the erosion that could happen to the blast baffle in the suppressor. Quoted:
Quoted:
I say that because I don't own any AR uppers beyond 14.5"....so I guess it made sense to me at the time without clarifying... To clarify, the brake does help with recoil, albeit the .223/5.56 is not a beast in the recoil department by any means. A decent break on a 14.5"-16" practically controls itself...It all depends on its intended use and not everyone's is particularly the same. Ah, OK. I'm not worried about recoil at all, more the erosion that could happen to the blast baffle in the suppressor. if i had it to do over again i would pony up for the brake |
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Entirely depends on your personal concerns. Will you treat the can like a tool (realizing that they'll all wear out if you shoot them enough), how much will you shoot it without the can (go with a flash hider if it will be more than 20% unsuppressed), semi auto only or full auto as well (again...maybe consider the brake if you're concerned with can life and heavy firing schedules)...etc. Too many variables that are dependant on your intended use and firing schedule.
I personally use a brake on my 11.5" SBR. I like the recoil mitigation while unsuppressed, and I shoot suppressed 95% of the time anyways. The 8" .300BLK upper I'm putting together will have a flash hider because I'm looking at using that on a SBR lower for a nightstand gun. |
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