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Posted: 4/14/2013 4:10:10 PM EDT
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Guys,
I have finally saved enough and I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on my first NFA purchase and need some pointers. I've read through all the tacked threads, but I haven't been able to find one that provides a specific order of operations I need to do to get the can I want. I am essentially at step 0 as far as taking action, but I have a pretty good idea of what I want to do and how. 1) I have decided on an AAC Ti-Rant 9mm. I like the traditional look of the cylinder and I like that it is user serviceable. 2) Since this is my first NFA item, I want to put it in an NFA trust. I plan to have an attorney draw up this trust because I want the NFA specific language and I just want the peace of mind of having a legal expert do this ground work for me. I am, of course, aware that I will have to pay for this privilege, but I'm fine with that. 3) I want to use my USP Compact as the primary host for the suppressor, and know that I will need to either have my barrel threaded, or acquire a threaded barrel at some point. So, at this point, I'm not sure what steps need to be taken in what order? Do I need to have my Trust drawn up first? Do I need to order the suppressor first? At what point will I submit my Form 4? Essentially, what is the order of operations to get this done? Also, since I do not have threaded barrel already, should I get it 13.5 x 1mm or 1/2 x 28? I was leaning toward 1/2 x 28, but I literally have no reason for that. It is one thing I really haven't researched. I'm embarrassed to ask as well, but what is a piston when it comes to suppressors? 
I'm just kind of confused on what it takes to go from a plain old factory USP compact, to a suppressed one? Thanks. |
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Get your trust set up first, while its being drawn up go ahead and have your dealer order your can for you if they don't have it in stock. This way your trust should be done by the time the first transfer is done. At the same time you need to figure what barrel you plan on using, you can't just thread your existing barrel because it will be to short. You will need a threaded factory or aftermarket barrel.. This should really be done before you order your can if the piston / mount is built into the can other wise you will have a can that won't match your barrel threads.
So after your can comes in take a copy of your trust documents to your dealer and they should fill out most of the paperwork and submit it. Then it's a waiting game. Hope this makes sense and is all correct as I'm very tired |
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You can buy the supressor, or another NFA item without a trust, you just can't turn in the paperwork until you have the trust set up.
A dealer to dealer tranfer (this is called a Form 3 transfer) needs ATF approval, so it takes about a month to 6 weeks. So, if you have found a supressor that you like, if it's out of your state, you can buy it and start the dealer to dealer tranfer while you are getting your form set up. Another thing that you will need is a good, local Class III dealer, who can sell you NFA items, and handle transfers. I'd do it like this: Get your trust set up. Have your wife and kids if desired also included on the trust, so they can posses the items as well as you. Make a couple of copies, keeping the orginal in a safety deposit box or your gun safe. Find a local Class III dealer, and either buy your supressor through him, or buy it someplace else and have him handle the transfer. Once in hand, he will prepare the Form 4, which is a transfer form to an individual or a trust, in your case. It takes about 6 months for the form to come back. When it does, make two copies of the form, color, double sided, and have one of them laminated, along with the section of your trust that lists your name as the executor. Then when you go to the range or have your NFA items with you, you can show if needed the copy of the Form 4, and the document showing that you are part of the trust. For the actual can, the piston on a AAC is the part that is threaded and screws onto your barrel. It's called a piston as it moves on a pistol. Due to the moving barrel aspect of a Browning recoil operated action, if you have the weight of a supressor on the end of it, it won't cycle. So the piston is a mushroom looking part that has a spring around the shaft. As the barrel moves back, it pulls the piston with it, but only the piston and not the entire suppressor. So the action moves back far enought to unlock and begin cycling, then the mushroom head pulls the rest of the supressor with it. You can use a pistol suppressor on a rifle or another firearm with a fixed barrel, you just need to buy a 20 dollar spacer to replace the spring. The AAC supressor is excellent. I have a Tirant in .45 and really like it. There is little sound difference between a 9mm can on a 9mm and a 45 can on a 9mm, so if there is ANY chance that you will ever want to shoot a 45 with a supressor, I'd get the 45 TiRant. The 45 is a better platform for a supressor as you can shoot subsonic loads, with no sonic crack, and still have a good defensive round. AAC sells different pistons with differnt threads. They're about 70 bucks, and you can swap them out in a minute or so. For threads. the HK factory threads are a left handed thread, which may be less likely to unscrew during firing, as most bullets are given a right hand twist. But HK is just about the only company that has LH threads. If you have the option, I'd go with 1/2 x 28 for your piston thread, as it's a much more common thread. You can also use a pistol supressor on a rifle, but ONLY with sub-sonic loads. The full power super sonic rounds develop too much pressure for a supressor designed for pistol pressures. A supressor will be quieter if you inject a small amount of water or other liquid into it. The liquid helps to cool the gas, which is mainly what a supressor does. Buy a can of anti-seize lubricant, as the heat and fouling of a supressor can lock a can onto a barrel. Plus its a good thread lubrican't as well to prevent thread wear and gauling. Shooting with a supressor is a lot of fun, and you turn a 9mm or a 45 into a .22 in terms of noise, blast, and recoil. But be aware that it really makes the gun dirty, as a lot of the carbon and gunk are coming back into the action instead of blasting downrange. Put aside a lot of money for your NFA items. Once you buy and use one, you're going to buy a bunch more. A good NFA package is a .22 can, a 45 or 9mm can, a rifle can, at least one SBR AR lower, as you can swap out uppers at your whim, and of couse, at least one full auto weapon. Good luck. |
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Quoted:
Get your trust set up first, while its being drawn up go ahead and have your dealer order your can for you if they don't have it in stock. This way your trust should be done by the time the first transfer is done. At the same time you need to figure what barrel you plan on using, you can't just thread your existing barrel because it will be to short. You will need a threaded factory or aftermarket barrel.. This should really be done before you order your can if the piston / mount is built into the can other wise you will have a can that won't match your barrel threads. So after your can comes in take a copy of your trust documents to your dealer and they should fill out most of the paperwork and submit it. Then it's a waiting game. Hope this makes sense and is all correct as I'm very tired Actually, depending on which 9mm the host gun is, threading the stock barrel is sometimes possible. Adco Firearms (www.adcofirearms.com) does threaded barrel extensions for most popular 9mm pistols. Check under "shop services" on their website. I had Adco do a threaded barrel extension for my Browning Buckmark. Turn around time (door-to-door) was 9 days total. Adco does top notch work and is highly regarded. |
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