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Posted: 7/16/2012 8:50:18 AM EDT
| At 25 yds that's a lot of zero shift. Your bullet holes look nice and round too so I doubt you're getting strikes. I'd try some better ammo (Rem subsonic isn't the greatest) and also check to see if the can is bottoming out on the crown instead of the shoulder of the barrel/threads. |
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Let us know the length of your threads. To long! I put a washer from an A2 flash hider between the barrel and can....PROBLEM SOLVED! THANKS GUYS! ![]() Great but be careful and make sure that washer is flat and straight or you can get baffle strikes. It might not happen the first few times but can happen eventually if the washer isnt perfect. . Washers for flashhiders dont have to worry about concentricity like with suppressors. |
| The washer that comes with the A2 birdcage flash hider is a crush washer and not safe to use with suppressors! Best to get a .2" spacer (assuming you have a .6" thread length). It is extremely important that the washer or spacer you use has parallel flat surfaces that will not cause misalignment. The stores listed above by a previous poster are great places to look for one. I got several of mine through Silencer Shop and they work great on AR-15's with 22LR conversion and a precision YHM 10/22 barrel I have. |
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Hmm....I haven't heard of the washers yet? I am about to have a 10/22 cut and threaded by adco, I will need to buy a spacer? Any way for me to know which/what kind to get?
From reading this thread it seems like I might not need one....I would hope to not need one... |
| I have a Sparrow and a MK II FV-SR as well. The threads on the FV-SR are .475" which means you will run the barrel threads into the o-ring before the can bottoms out on the barrel. My solution was to just remove the o-ring. Since none of my hosts are cut to engage the o-ring properly anyway I don't miss it. The can screws on all the way now w/o any problems. |
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Hmm....I haven't heard of the washers yet? I am about to have a 10/22 cut and threaded by adco, I will need to buy a spacer? Any way for me to know which/what kind to get? From reading this thread it seems like I might not need one....I would hope to not need one... If they cut the threads to 1/2" x 28", you should not need a spacer. |
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Hmm....I haven't heard of the washers yet? I am about to have a 10/22 cut and threaded by adco, I will need to buy a spacer? Any way for me to know which/what kind to get? From reading this thread it seems like I might not need one....I would hope to not need one... If they cut the threads to 1/2" x 28", you should not need a spacer. The thread pitch and diameter i.e. 1/2" x 28 have nothing to do with the length of the threads. I see this mistake on here quite a bit. 1/2" refers to the pitch diameter and "28" refers to 28 threads per inch. The threads themselves can be any length. In this particular case, if I've interpreted the post correctly, the sparrow requires the threaded section of the barrel to be no longer than .475 inches but the OP's are longer than that. So, when the sparrow is threaded all the way down, there is still a .125 inch gap between the suppressor and the shoulder of the barrel. The spacer, everyone is referring to fills that gap and allows the suppressor to seat against a square shoulder. No disrespect at all man, but I wish people would refrain from commenting on thread sizes unless they have little more knowledge of them. Like I said, nothing personal man. Just trying to help you out. ETA: If you were saying that ADCO would have cut them to .475, I apologize. I misread your post. But I see a ton of people on here that don't understand thread nomenclature. |
| What will said, the thread depth is separate of 1/2" OD (outer diameter) 28 TPI (Threads per inch) commonly 1/2x28. 22LR suppressor hosts are very commonly cut at 0.400". Thus the specs you would provide your smith are 1/2x28" .400" depth. There are also different types of 1/2x28 threads, 2A is the most common in the suppressor world. |
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