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Posted: 2/9/2011 1:17:47 PM EDT
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Kel or Owen.......
Would you mind giving out some more details? Primarily the "when" but also if pusher tools will be made available, will it be rated for .17HMR with a stainless baffle stack, and any other pertinent info that's not contained on the website. I'm itching to upgrade, it may just mean I quit looking for a replacement .22 takeapart can. Outback upgrade page!!!!! |
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Would you mind giving out some more details? Primarily the "when" but also if pusher tools will be made available, will it be rated for .17HMR with a stainless baffle stack, and any other pertinent info that's not contained on the website. I'm itching to upgrade, it may just mean I quit looking for a replacement .22 takeapart can. Outback upgrade page!!!!! Appreciate the interest! The webpage you listed has the basic scoop on the upgrade program - GEMTECH is letting the customer "have it their way" to the point of having each individual baffle configurable in three different material choices, so you could have a stainless blast baffle, followed by a couple titanium for weight, or remainder of stack in aluminum for cost/weight, or make the whole thing all stainless for ability to pop it into toxically dangerous and potentially evil solvents –– your call! We're not saying the OB series of suppressors are rated for anything other than .22lr. GEMTECH has a number of suppressors that are perfect for .17HMR (The dedicated HMR, as well as the multicaliber SAR57, the G522, and the ALPINE series cans, and of course any of the centerfire rifle cans if you really want to peg the needle on that overkill/value matrix). While plenty durable and overbuilt for .22lr, especially with the steel or titanium baffles, we *are* advising and keeping that sold as a .22lr suppressor at this time. As far as tools, there will be a spanner wrench tool that we've made for the OUTBACK-II-D endcaps - as far as a "pusher tool" it's recommended to use a softer wood dowel of slightly smaller size to push the baffles out. If you're cleaning it often enough, you shouldn't need to resort to harder approaches. Kel GEMTECH TEAM GUY ARFCOM INDUSTRY DISCLOSURE: Pays money to be here, giving colloquial and chummy customer service. |
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Would you mind giving out some more details? Primarily the "when" but also if pusher tools will be made available, will it be rated for .17HMR with a stainless baffle stack, and any other pertinent info that's not contained on the website. I'm itching to upgrade, it may just mean I quit looking for a replacement .22 takeapart can. Outback upgrade page!!!!! Appreciate the interest! The webpage you listed has the basic scoop on the upgrade program - GEMTECH is letting the customer "have it their way" to the point of having each individual baffle configurable in three different material choices, so you could have a stainless blast baffle, followed by a couple titanium for weight, or remainder of stack in aluminum for cost/weight, or make the whole thing all stainless for ability to pop it into toxically dangerous and potentially evil solvents –– your call! We're not saying the OB series of suppressors are rated for anything other than .22lr. GEMTECH has a number of suppressors that are perfect for .17HMR (The dedicated HMR, as well as the multicaliber SAR57, the G522, and the ALPINE series cans, and of course any of the centerfire rifle cans if you really want to peg the needle on that overkill/value matrix). While plenty durable and overbuilt for .22lr, especially with the steel or titanium baffles, we *are* advising and keeping that sold as a .22lr suppressor at this time. As far as tools, there will be a spanner wrench tool that we've made for the OUTBACK-II-D endcaps - as far as a "pusher tool" it's recommended to use a softer wood dowel of slightly smaller size to push the baffles out. If you're cleaning it often enough, you shouldn't need to resort to harder approaches. Kel GEMTECH TEAM GUY ARFCOM INDUSTRY DISCLOSURE: Pays money to be here, giving colloquial and chummy customer service. Very interesting....I'll give you a shout when my Outback II hits 7oz. |
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Is there a recommended or optimal configuration to reduce first round pop and save on weight. Love the idea looking for a little advice. ***I don't think you're going to change any FRP, as it's all the same blast baffle design, just made from different materials. Weight: aluminum is King. Titanium is only slightly heavier, with Stainless being the big ol' Mack truck. The latter two choices open options for harsher chemicals and cleaning methods. Titanium is most expensive, but has the better aspects of stronger/light/chemical resistance. ETA: To answer the above poster's question about the mount - Yes, we can upgrade to the OBII threadmount at the same time. There's a lot of good configurations, including the original aluminum version, so I don't presume to tell the customer which of the 31 flavors is best, we're just here to provide choices! Kel GEMTECH TEAM GUY ARFCOM INDUSTRY DISCLOSURE: "Pass away the hours, hear the footsteps of the past Walking up the stairs of time, knowing that I'm trapped Cold winds of indifference persuade a movement south Thinking that it's better there The warmer climes that we seek out Poor bird flies up in the air, never getting anywhere And how much misery can one soul take? Trying to fly away might have been your fist mistake We wish the best to all our friends, young and old alike When the dust has settled in the sky, you can have anything you like" |
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Wow this is cool. If I ahve an Outback do you upgrade the threaded end to the Outback II threaded section? Why 7 oz's?? Is that the magic number of when it needs to be serviced Seven ounces was the mentioned magic number. |
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Kel, whats the price break for those that already have a disassemblable Outback being you wont need to labor it? Just swapping out old aluminum baffles for new s/s or ti doesnt seem to be a $200-250 plus job? thanks for listening to us  ***We only have the one set price for the upgrade. If you've modified your suppressor, or need a repair, or have something that colors outside of the lines of what we've established a set price for, that enters the realm of the repair department - I'm sure it will be fair, as you say, you're saving us labor, but anything other than what we've put out there would best be addressed on a case-by-case basis. Generally, it would be appropriate to send in your suppressor with a note explaining exactly what work you are looking to have done, and we'll call you with a quote. I realize you're just looking for a baffle-by-baffle pricing, but since the suppressor needs to come in for any upgrade anyway, I'd think it fair to reserve right to inspect any customer-made modifications before making a price quote. That's not meant to sound scary or threatening or anything, I just wouldn't want to quote one thing and then have to modify that quote if we were tossed a curve ball in what someone had done. Kel GEMTECH ARFCOM INDUSTRY DISCLOSURE: Happy Valentine's Day |
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So what are people planning for configurations?
I am really thinking of doing the full Titanium upgrade....but should I? I don't have any full auto, but I use my Outback-II on my P22, AA Glock .22 Conversion, and 2 AR conversions. I'm excited now I will be able to clean it and extend it's life. What are the optimal setups? Opinions wanted. 
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Quoted: So what are people planning for configurations? I am really thinking of doing the full Titanium upgrade....but should I? I don't have any full auto, but I use my Outback-II on my P22, AA Glock .22 Conversion, and 2 AR conversions. I'm excited now I will be able to clean it and extend it's life. What are the optimal setups? Opinions wanted. All should sound the same, Al is stock OB, and is the lightest Ti is next lightest a pretty tough Fe will heaviest and toughest I really do not believe that there is a real* benefit. Other then cleaning with chem. That said I might get a Ti blast baffle, and Al for the rest. |
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So what are people planning for configurations? I am really thinking of doing the full Titanium upgrade....but should I? I don't have any full auto, but I use my Outback-II on my P22, AA Glock .22 Conversion, and 2 AR conversions. I'm excited now I will be able to clean it and extend it's life. What are the optimal setups? Opinions wanted. I would recommend all aluminum baffles, including the blast baffle. This will give you the best sound reduction (and is the most economical). Our measurements show that the use of steel, even just a steel blast baffle, does degrade performance a little. The aluminum alloy we use for our baffles has a tensile strength equal to that of stainless steel and has a seriously greater yield strength. Disregarding turbulence, for the same baffle geometry and internal volume, the difference in performance is related to the ability of the material to absorb and transmit heat (reduce pressure by reducing gas temperature). The thermal characteristics are related to the specific heat and thermal conductivity of the metal. By far the best metals are silver, copper, and aluminum. The first two are impractical because of hardness (or lack thereof), machineability, and expense. Aluminum is far superior to steel when one considers thermal characteristics. The melting point is irrelevant in rimfire suppressors. |
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Quoted: Quoted: So what are people planning for configurations? I am really thinking of doing the full Titanium upgrade....but should I? I don't have any full auto, but I use my Outback-II on my P22, AA Glock .22 Conversion, and 2 AR conversions. I'm excited now I will be able to clean it and extend it's life. What are the optimal setups? Opinions wanted. I would recommend all aluminum baffles, including the blast baffle. This will give you the best sound reduction (and is the most economical). Our measurements show that the use of steel, even just a steel blast baffle, does degrade performance a little. The aluminum alloy we use for our baffles has a tensile strength equal to that of stainless steel and has a seriously greater yield strength. Disregarding turbulence, for the same baffle geometry and internal volume, the difference in performance is related to the ability of the material to absorb and transmit heat (reduce pressure by reducing gas temperature). The thermal characteristics are related to the specific heat and thermal conductivity of the metal. By far the best metals are silver, copper, and aluminum. The first two are impractical because of hardness (or lack thereof), machineability, and expense. Aluminum is far superior to steel when one considers thermal characteristics. The melting point is irrelevant in rimfire suppressors. PHD What is the best way to clean one's can? thanks |
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So what are people planning for configurations? I am really thinking of doing the full Titanium upgrade....but should I? I don't have any full auto, but I use my Outback-II on my P22, AA Glock .22 Conversion, and 2 AR conversions. I'm excited now I will be able to clean it and extend it's life. What are the optimal setups? Opinions wanted. I would recommend all aluminum baffles, including the blast baffle. This will give you the best sound reduction (and is the most economical). Our measurements show that the use of steel, even just a steel blast baffle, does degrade performance a little. The aluminum alloy we use for our baffles has a tensile strength equal to that of stainless steel and has a seriously greater yield strength. Disregarding turbulence, for the same baffle geometry and internal volume, the difference in performance is related to the ability of the material to absorb and transmit heat (reduce pressure by reducing gas temperature). The thermal characteristics are related to the specific heat and thermal conductivity of the metal. By far the best metals are silver, copper, and aluminum. The first two are impractical because of hardness (or lack thereof), machineability, and expense. Aluminum is far superior to steel when one considers thermal characteristics. The melting point is irrelevant in rimfire suppressors. PHD What is the best way to clean one's can? thanks Not the good Dr. but if you get the stainless or titanium baffles you can use a 50/50 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. The lead acetate that's left over after you're done is toxic so add salt to precipitate the lead then dispose of at your local HAZMAT center. Stainless can be cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. Aluminum you're pretty much limited to light media blasting or lots and lots of scrubbing. |
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