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3/3/2007 12:57:19 PM EDT
I just got two of these at work (free from DRMO). They are ALMOST brand new. Pretty good score, and I just finished my Form 10s.

Any tips or things to look out for on mounting the QD flash hider? While we have the intruction manual, experienced armorers and all of the tools needed, I am not sure that we have the "Lock set" the manual referred to, although there was one small clear plastic tube in the box with them containing a clear, yellow liquid. If that isn't it, what else should I do? The QD flash hiders are going on Colt M4s, and I do not want to wind up damaging my "work" gun or someone else's.

My can experience is limited to the MP5SD and my only personal (non-work owned) NFA weapon, an Outback 2, and those are both pretty darned simple.

Thanks in advance for any pointers or tips.

3/3/2007 1:01:32 PM EDT
[#1]
Rock-sett.


That should be it in the tube.


3/3/2007 1:15:20 PM EDT
[#2]
That little bottle is "Rockset".  Use a couple drops of that on the threads and torque nice and snug.  Clean the threads of the barrel and the mount first with alcohol (brake cleaner), then clean them again just to be sure

If you are going to use the can on a rifle that requires extreme accuracy you will need to pay attention to the mount.  There is a spring that falls into a "V" notch, you can hear it click while tightening.  When fully tight the spring may only be half way to the next "V". Mine is like this and this is to the mfr. spec.  If yours does not make the last click just leave it in the last full "V" notch and your accuracy and zero repeatability will be maximized.  There will be a slight wobble like this but no fears of baffle strikes.  If you don't need extreme accuracy then just twist till it stops and blast away, the can will probably fall back into the last "V" notch but not any farther.  Mine is like this and no amount of full auto has made it loosen past the last full "V" notch.

It is a great can, you will be hard pressed to kill it.
3/3/2007 4:27:17 PM EDT
[#3]
Not familiar with the DRMO process but do all go on evil form 10 even though it's a transferable item before it was killed by form 10
3/3/2007 8:16:50 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Not familiar with the DRMO process but do all go on evil form 10 even though it's a transferable item before it was killed by form 10


Military NFA stuff isn't registered as an NFA item by statute.

Once it goes from DRMO to an LE agency (the only legal way I am aware for an NFA item to leave military control these days), the LE agency must register it. The only avenue I know of is the Form 10. Most everything else we got from DRMO before now was a non-transferrable MG. I looked into using a Form 5, but in order to use a Form 5, the item has to come from someone else who already had it in the National Firearms Registry. A Form 1 wouldn't work, because AAC was the actual manufacturer.

We couldn't transfer this anyhow, as the Military has final say over what we do with it; basically, we are only allowed to transfer it to other LE agencies in the 1033 Program (with prior permission from the military before we execute a Form 5) or back to DRMO. If anyone has any better ideas though, I am all ears.

I hate the idea that we even have a Form 10 that restricts the transferability of weapons. We have one formerly transferrable subgun around here that was mistakenly re-registered on a Form 10. With the changes at NFA Branch, they have told us we may be able to get it back onto a Form 5 or Form 4 (it was a legal, donated MAC on a Form 4 with an interesting and papered LE history), but I have had problems finding the guy who donated it many years ago, and have more pressing matters at work. Heck, the Armorer probably had it cut up when I wasn't paying attention.

I was in charge of an audit a few years back of our firearms, and I did learn that the domestically-produced NFA firearms that are not NFA registered but are otherwise lawfully manufactured do make it into the National Firearms Registry, but that they get "coded out" with an export or US military code, and no further paper ever makes it into the Registry regarding that weapon. We found that several of our agency's NFA weapons had been "coded out" as exported directly from the manufacturer, and had to write some letters to get them back into the registry, even though they went straight from Colt to us.
3/5/2007 5:05:36 PM EDT
[#5]
Worked great.

If there is anything cooler than getting paid to shoot machineguns (on what was technically my day off), it is getting paid to shoot silenced machineguns.

The little tube was definitely the Lockset, and we got everything fixed up with little difficulty, though the anti-rotation pins on our LT rails made blocking the action in the vise a little tougher.

It was loud for the shooter, but not too loud. The 11.5" we put one on had some timing issues, but I am ordering an H3 buffer for it and hopefully that should fix things. It sounded like it was running at 1100-1200 RPM.

My M4, at the standard 14.5", ran fine, though it sounded and felt like it was running at around 900 RPM. No malfunctions though, and it handled duty ammo with no jacket separation, even after it got good and hot.

The most fun was when one of the range guys brought out his vinatge Atchisson .22LR conversion kit. Subsonic Silenced .22LR on full auto. Does it get any better?

I had already ordered a couple of Gasbuster charging handles, and I can defintely see the need. My eyes watered up on bursts, and my wife was making fun of me when I got home. Think I ruined a shirt, too.

Good fun though, and should be good for work use. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.
3/6/2007 8:18:28 AM EDT
[#6]
If it was your day off then you weren't getting paid to be there

I would heartliy recommend the MGI rate reducing buffer.  Not only will the rate go way down, but it will hold the bolt closed a little longer and you will get less gas in the face.  

Maybe even try the MGI super heavy recoil spring.  Heavier recoil springs are sort of a dual edged sword in that it might hold the bolt closed a little longer but the ROF might actually go up because of the higher speed bolt return.  Cheap enough to experiment though  And what the heck, you are getting paid to do it.
3/6/2007 4:41:18 PM EDT
[#7]
I will look into the MGI buffer.

The 11.5s have been problematic (which is par for the course) and have had timing issues crop up from time to time. Switching to "H" buffers fixed almost all of that. I personally run a 14.5" Colt M4 and have had no problems worth mentioning; I do not think I have had a non-intentional stoppage in that yet, in about 10K rounds fired. over the last few years. I do "baby" it to an extent, and while it is an issued "work" gun, it gets cleaned frequently and I take great pains not to abuse it unecessarily. My life, my co-workers and that of all of the innocent folks we serve depends on that carbine working flawlessly when I need it, and I take that pretty seriously. Too bad I won't be able to keep it when I retire...
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