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3/2/2007 3:21:09 PM EDT
In the manual under maintanance it says that at intervals of approx 500 rnds it is beneficial to submerge a the silencer in an appropriate solvent like 3:1 min spirits and ATF.  Allow the unit to soak as long as possible then allow it to drain etc.

My question is, is there too long that you can have it soak for?   I have shot mine approx 800rnds and just started soaking it today would here be any problems letting it soak for a week or longer?

Thanks
3/2/2007 4:29:51 PM EDT
[#1]
I too have a can cleaning question. (Alaskagrown--This thread seems like the appropriate place to ask, I don't mean to hijack)

Is there any way to use brass cleaning media, such as ground walnut husks, to clean out the crud?
Would running a dirty can through a vibratory case tumbler clean it out?
Would you need to wrap the can in masking tape to protect the finish from the tumbling?
Would it be beneficial to combine the dissolving action of the solvent, and the abrasive action of the media?

I would imagine that there might be a way to seal off one end of the can (water-proof seal), fill it with tumbler media, (fill the can with your solvent of choice????), then seal off the other end before putting it in a tumbler with a full load of media.

Would flushing the can with water effectively clean out the solvent/media mix after the tumbling is done??

Just tossing up some ideas, looking for feedback.

Thanks






3/2/2007 4:38:25 PM EDT
[#2]
I tried cleaning my Outback II per the manufacturer's instructions w/ the mineral spirits & ATF.  I didn't soak it but for about 30 minutes.  I spent a lot of time pouring the solution through the tube.

Afterwards, I let it drip-dry then blew some compressed air through it.

I noticed that the gun tote-bag I store the can in had some dried powder residue in it; I'm guessing it dropped out of the can after it completely dried.

I'm also interested in learning more about cleaning/maintenance of this can.
3/2/2007 7:00:11 PM EDT
[#3]
You should clean your cans as often as you clean your muffler on your car.
3/2/2007 7:39:01 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
You should clean your cans as often as you clean your muffler on your car.


That statement might actually make some sort of sense if silencers weren't a restricted, regulated item that required fingerprinting, law enforcement "signoff", months of waiting for approval, paying a tax that is usually more than half what the silencer cost retail and only being able to get one from a dealer approved by a federal government agency.  

The day I can go down to the local muffler/silencer store and buy a muffler/silencer without restrictions, excessive waiting, CLEO signoffs, forms, and a huge tax will be the day I stop cleaning my 22 cans and start buying factory sealed cans.  I wouldn't buy a gun I can't clean or a car with the oil drain plug welded in either.  

For anyone to deny the fact that 22 silencers fill up with filthy lead/carbon mess is to ignore know facts.  Read the first paragraph on page 132 of Alan C Paulson's first book...
3/2/2007 7:57:05 PM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:
You should clean your cans as often as you clean your muffler on your car.


One good reason to soak an Outback 22 can.

www.silencerresearch.com/silencers.htm

Look at all the carbon and lead buildup on the baffles.  You may not have to clean a suppressor on a centerfire, but 22 ammo is dirty.

3/2/2007 8:25:52 PM EDT
[#6]
You can soak till the cows come home and and you will never remove the lead build up.  It takes a wire brush or a bead blaster.

Fill 'em up and send them in for a rebuild.
3/3/2007 5:44:45 AM EDT
[#7]

Quoted:
You can soak till the cows come home and and you will never remove the lead build up.  It takes a wire brush or a bead blaster.

Fill 'em up and send them in for a rebuild.


That is precisely why I said what I said above.  With a sealed can, the point is moot.  Shoot it till it is full and then send it back for a re-build.  You can't effectively clean sealed cans.  You just can't.
3/3/2007 7:45:40 AM EDT
[#8]
There are chemicals which dissolve lead, but the silencer body it'self might not fare too well.
3/4/2007 10:14:31 AM EDT
[#9]
I wonder if there is something that you could let a NEW can soak in that would make the baffles slick enough that the lead would not grab onto them and build up? Also, there is a product called Seafoam that I sometimes use in my bikes to clean carbon out of the engine. I seems to disolve engine carbon on contact and I am "assuming" it is safe on aluminum as most newer engines have alot of aluminum parts in them. Granted to concentration would be ALOT greater if you soaked a can in this stuff, but I was just wondering if anyone gave any of the engine cleaners such as Techron or Seafoam a shot at cleaning a can. I want to add that this is just an off the top of my head type thought and I have done no research on using this. Just wanted to know if this might be a consideration. I am posting a link and just saw that they do have a product that can be used for cleaning guns, but the thoughts above were mainly aimed at the engine treatments. Thanks


Link
3/4/2007 3:33:50 PM EDT
[#10]
Hey, if anything, that stuff is a door lock de-icer.
3/5/2007 7:07:22 AM EDT
[#11]

Quoted:
In the manual under maintanance it says that at intervals of approx 500 rnds it is beneficial to submerge a the silencer in an appropriate solvent like 3:1 min spirits and ATF.  Allow the unit to soak as long as possible then allow it to drain etc.

My question is, is there too long that you can have it soak for?   I have shot mine approx 800rnds and just started soaking it today would here be any problems letting it soak for a week or longer?

Thanks


Our general recommendation is to soak for anywhere from several hours to overnight. You'll never get that suppressor clean enough to eat off of but it will get the loose crud out. Soaking longer than 24 hours doesn't seem to get it any cleaner.

Owen
Gemtech
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