Quiteshooter:
Please don’t get carried away with this!!
I doubt the sear is causing much of a problem with the DA triggerpull. Trip the sear spring to relieve the pressure against the hammer and see if that changes anything (simply use a small screwdriver to push the sear spring leg off the short pin coming through the ejector).
A few additional suggestions:
Keep the valve-grinding compound away from the aluminum frame – it can become embedded.
Working on a $15 part like the trigger bar is OK – working on a $300 part like the frame is not. (I just made up that amount OBTW, Sig frames aren’t available separately – so if you ruin the frame, you’ve ruined the gun.)
As I'm sure you know, the aluminum frame has a hard, slick outer coat called anodizing. If you accidentally remove that, you’re down to soft aluminum, which will wear fast (and isn’t very slick).
Trigger work is best done with stones, like you get from
www.brownells.com. Stones keep surfaces flat and make it easy to maintain angles, plus they’re great for just cutting burrs and nothing else.
Don’t forget to consider the mainspring assembly as a source of roughness. Remove it, use thumb pressure against the hammer to emulate mainspring pressure, and see if that does anything.
Stay away from the tab at the center top of the triggerbar. That’s the disconnector. (OK, if it’s rough maybe a single, light pass with a stone is acceptable – nothing more.)
Incidentally, the disconnector will eventually whack a groove in the bottom right edge of the slide. This is normal, don’t worry about it. Once the groove gets really ratty looking, you can stone it down ever so slightly to remove any raised edges.
Also, the rearmost top tab on the rear end of the triggerbar may wear a gouge in the frame shelf that I referred to in my first post. This tab rides along the bottom of the hammer pin and is clearly visible in the first two photos, above.
Sometimes the rear, frame side edge of this tab is a little sharp and starts shaving the shelf a bit as the trigger is released. If it looks like this edge is sharp, just kiss it with a stone to round it. Also, keep this area lubricated.
Keep in mind that as you use the pistol, the trigger will wear in a bit anyway, and become smoother. Also, a really good lubricant such as Brownell’s Action Lube Plus grease (applied with a toothpick to wear surfaces) can really smooth out a trigger.
If you have any intention of using this firearm for personal protection, it needs a full strength mainspring – period, end of story. If you ever have to point this thing at someone who is trying to harm you and pull the trigger, it had better go off!! Nothing is more important than this, plus in this event you won’t even notice how light, heavy, smooth, gritty or whatever that the trigger is.
Good luck again. Go slow – and recognize that the Sig is designed as a military, not competition, firearm.