Sent my 1911 V-10 Champion back to Springfield
Armory and they have to put a new frame on it.
The pistol was shooting about 10 inches low and
to the right, and stove piping the spend casing.
Anyone every had the same problem?

Haven't ever shot a Springfield, but have owned severla 1911's and have never seen em act like that. But do have a question, what does "and stove piping the spend casing" mean exactly?? If I am thinking correctly, it is when the brass is deformed upon ejection. Am I close?

The casing is not ejecting from the pistol
it's standing up like a stove pipe..

I heard about a Glock that did that once...

Oh. Wait.

I've never heard of a Glock doing that.

Don't worry about it. Just keep telling yourself that the 1911 is the best becasue it's what "so-and-so" agency chooses...

Whatever

Ahhhh, I get it now, I read once that if the recoil spring is too heavy, then it will cause the brass to catch up like that, cuz the slide is not going all the way back. Or could try some hotter loads.

boomerxm, I don't know much about 1911's, and I haven't fired one in about 50 years, but I'm replying, because I think I'm offering better advice than the other sarcasmic(sic) posters.

If you have too strong of a recoil spring or the slide is binding on the frame, the frame might not be going back far enough with enough force to eject the brass.  Also, if you have too weak of a recoil spring, the slide can bounce back before the brass has time to eject.  On the only handgun I've fired in decades, I created this exact problem (on purpose, I studying it) by both using too strong and too weak of a spring.

You have greased the rails, haven't you?

How's it feel when cycling it by hand?  Any binding, especially between the barrel and the bushing?

Are you sure you're gripping it strongly?  The first time I fired a 1911, I had it jam on me every single time, until I was shown how to hold it.  That was the first time I had fired a handgun, and I didn't know any better.  After I started holding my wrist directly behind the frame, the problem went away.

Also, how does the ejector look?  Again, it's been decades since I've looked at a 1911, but from what I remember, a few officers had trouble with the top edge of the ejector breaking off or with the ejectors wiggling too much in the frame.  You might want to look in a catalog to see how a new ejector is supposed to look to make sure yours has the correct profile, and make sure it is tight.

I think a weak extractor spring or bent extractor could cause this problem.  It might not be getting a good grip on the rim on the case.  Also, the hook on the extractor might be misshaped or chipped.  The extractor might not move smoothly in the cut-out in the slide.  Does it move in and out without binding?  Even on a very nice, high-quality new Springfield you still could run into trouble with this.   I know a few Colts we had had burrs in this channel.

Ejection port.  I remember seeing several officers with the ejection port filed on the bottom edge and back edge.  It didn't look like much (0.1" maybe), but it was supposed to help keep the slide from knocking the brass back into the pistol.  This might have been an "old-wives" tale, because there were a lot of things we did there for reasons that weren't rooted in reality.

Shooting way too low?  Other than having a sight with an incorrect height, I don't see how it could be shooting that low.  How do the holes look in the paper?  I have a Kel-Tec P32 that didn't have the finishing process done on the inside of the barrel (no rifling!).  It creates some nasty looking holes in paper, and shoots about 18" low at 25 yards.  Are your holes round?

Again, the above consists of my wild guesses.  I'm not lucky enough to own a 1911 myself, so I'm sure that you'll get a better response from someone else when they post to disagree with my advise.z

Springfield will do what`s right and have it back fairly quick.
The recoil spring does sound too strong but if it`s shooting 10" low, then something is wrong big time. make sure you ask them what was causing the probs.
Glocks are nice pistols, but not another pistol will get up and rock as fast and controllable as a nice 1911.
TBS-I use a G34 in IPSC this year.

PsychoAR, I didn't mean to include you in my complaint about the other posts.  When I started my reply, you hadn't posted yet.  In my inexperienced opinion, your suggestion is most likely it.z

no offense taken sir, I figured it was something of the sort.

The only time my Springfield ever did anything like that was when I tried to put a box of wolf through it. (hey, times were kind of hard at that time.) and one time when I tried to fire some re-loads a friend of mine made up.I think it was a combination of too much recoil spring and too little powder charge. the recoil cant overcome the spring tension and it catches the spent casing in the slide.  

I HAVE seen a Glock stovepipe- it was a Glock 21 with factory ball ammo, and it was right in the middle of a tactical match.  At least it wasn't during a gunfight, since it was the guy's duty gun.  And it wasn't a maintenance issue, I know the guy and he's very meticulous about his guns. Also saw a G21 go full-auto due to worn parts.  Funny as hell until we pulled it apart and saw all the damage it caused.  Seen Glocks off all sorts have malfunctions.  They're great guns, but they're not magic.

Thank You for the info guys, Springfield said
it will be about 2-4 weeks before I get it back.
The pistol has only had about 300 rounds put threw it. I sure hope they fix it right I was
really starting to like shooting it.

For all your 1911 needs, try www.1911forum.com/cgi-bin/Ultimate.cgi

They have a specific forum for Springfields.

LL

I know several owners of SA V-10s or V-12s & they ALL have had to have them tweaked by the factory in order to make them run properly. I own a SA Govt model that is fitted with a Wilson NM barrel & it runs very very nicely. But the V models apparently lack a bit of quality control and/or testing.

anybody who shoots 1911's should be familiar with wolff springs at www.gunsprings.com  buy one of their calibration spring kits that has a bunch of spring weights in it...then you can go to the range and shoot really light loads or heavy loads with the change of a spring...one thing a lot of folks don't know is that if you shoot heavy loads with not enough recoil spring--you can crack your frame (Been there done that)..

Was shooting an NRA action pistol match this weekend with a buddy who is too tight to spend 25 bucks or so for the aforementioned spring kit...well guess what--he was shooting a light load of Clays powder and during the barracade event had stovepipes one after the other..some didn't even start to eject the empty....buy the kit.......Dick