Armory Sponsor
Posted: 7/19/2016 2:02:18 AM EDT
|
I have a suppressor that I'm hoping to be able to pick up soon. It will be used mostly on a Ruger 22/45, but I also have a Sig 522 that I would love to be able to use it on too.
My question is what is the correct way to remove the flash hider from the 522. I'm notorious for screwing things up sometimes and really don't want to tweak the barrel or mess up the finish trying to muscle this thing off. What would be the best way to remove it? Thanks |
|
Quoted:
Don't forget to use barrel blocks to clamp the barrel. I actually have one of the wrenches referenced above. But, what are these barrel blocks you speak of? This is probably exactly what I was looking for, something to keep from tweaking things. I'll have to do some research on these, thanks. |
|
Quoted:
I actually have one of the wrenches referenced above. But, what are these barrel blocks you speak of? This is probably exactly what I was looking for, something to keep from tweaking things. I'll have to do some research on these, thanks. Quoted:
Quoted:
Don't forget to use barrel blocks to clamp the barrel. I actually have one of the wrenches referenced above. But, what are these barrel blocks you speak of? This is probably exactly what I was looking for, something to keep from tweaking things. I'll have to do some research on these, thanks. Link. Link. Here's a video too. > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KnHR0IfZ4I The cheaper unlined ones can leave aluminum marks on your barrel unless you put something between the barrel and the vise blocks. I just use those blue paper shop towels from Costco to protect the finish from the vise blocks. For an even cheaper option you can just drill an appropriate size hole through a block of wood and then cut it in half. |
| FWIW, I clamp the barrel in a vice as close to the flash hider as possible. I first wrap the barrel with a strip of leather to protect it from the vice jaws. I find that leather grips well to both the barrel and the jaws, so no barrel clamps are needed. Then tighten the jaws as much as possible. You will not hurt barrel steel. Use an open end wrench that matches the muzzle device. Torque unusually less then 40 foot pounds, typically only 25, so it should come off pretty easy. |
Armory Sponsor