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Posted: 4/3/2015 11:13:30 PM EDT
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May be getting one in .243 in a wood stock.
Tell me about these guns, Will they accept 110 part? Are they accurate? Recommend upgrades? Its an older gun with one owner and is in great shape, the .243 just doesn't excite me much Any wisdom you can share I thank you May be able to get it cheap and was thinking of rebarreling it in .260 or 6.5 creedmore |
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If it is an early Savage short action, it may have the earlier action screw spacing (I don't recall the exact measurement). Later models use the current 4.40 action screw spacing. This really only matters for some aftermarket stocks and bottom metal. You can always replace all barrels between long and short actions with the same threaded barrel nut and barrel, regardless if it's a long or short action. There's some more variations than this simplification, but for a basic model 10 this will hold true.
An explanation of actions: https://twsniper.wordpress.com/budget-bull-barrel-build/savage-parking-lot/savage-action-info/ Any Savage should be a decent action to upgrade a barrel on. If you are serious about upgrading more components of it than just the barrel, then I would only look to the more recent centerfeed 4.40 actions. More aftermarket components for these recent actions. The savages are decent, but have had a lot of minor variations in the action over the years, so choosing aftermarket components takes a little more homework. A short action would be a fine start for a 6.5 or any similar 308 sized cartridge. ETA: Aubie1 should ease up some. I mentioned that there are variations to Savage actions. "There's some more variations than this simplification, but for a basic model 10 this will hold true". A typical modern "package rifle" will always have a small shank. You would know it if you had a large shank or target action. If the OP is going to put more money into his rifle, then it would really be best to get an action with the latest 4.40 action spacing and centerfeed magazine, otherwise it will take more care to get the right aftermarket parts. I like Savages, but all the minor variations over the years does complicate it a bit... center feed or staggered, accu trigger or not, side or bottom bolt release... etc. |
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Not to sound rude, but you really don't know what you are talking about....I'll leave it at that as I don't want to derail the OP.
Quoted:
If it is an early Savage short action, it may have the earlier action screw spacing (I don't recall the exact measurement). Later models use the current 4.40 action screw spacing. This really only matters for some aftermarket stocks and bottom metal. You can always replace all barrels between long and short actions with the same threaded barrel nut and barrel, regardless if it's a long or short action. There's some more variations than this simplification, but for a basic model 10 this will hold true. An explanation of actions: https://twsniper.wordpress.com/budget-bull-barrel-build/savage-parking-lot/savage-action-info/ Any Savage should be a decent action to upgrade a barrel on. If you are serious about upgrading more components of it than just the barrel, then I would only look to the more recent centerfeed 4.40 actions. More aftermarket components for these recent actions. The savages are decent, but have had a lot of minor variations in the action over the years, so choosing aftermarket components takes a little more homework. A short action would be a fine start for a 6.5 or any similar 308 sized cartridge. OP, get the SN of the Savage you are about to purchase and check Savagearms.com Savage changed ownership a few years ago and the new ownership will not warranty Savage rifles past a specific serial number. In all honesty, the current Savage warranty sucks since it's only a year from original purchase, so that 243 would be out of warranty regardless. The barrels are different, so don't let anyone tell you differently. You need to know if it's a standard shank or a long shank. Since you have a model 10, it will be a standard shank. Your older Savage will likely have 4.27" spacing that is the distance between the front screw and the front screw of the trigger guard is where/how you would measure to determine the screw spacing. The parts are going to be the same regardless if you have 4.27" or 4.4" spacing...the only difference is the stock itself and that's not always true either since MDT offers the LSS chassis and you can use either spacing in their chassis. It's very simple to do a barrel/caliber swap and can be done in under 15 minutes...especially if you don't like .243, but want say a 260 Remington. If you go from .243 to 260 Remington, all you would need to do is swap out the barrel. The bolt face is the same and so are the GO/NO GO gauges. I'd replace the factory recoil lug as it's not the same thickness. Most will also upgrade the barrel nut as well. Do yourself a favor and join SavageShooters...it's like $12 a year and that allows you to post in the classifieds. |
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Thank you for the help
I have seen it now and it is one of the package deal rifles with the scope and was made in 2003 or 04 and is without the accutrigger. I know my rem 700's but am starting to learn on savages. What are some of the upgrades that will make it a tack driver? If I end up getting it can I change it to a removable mag? Also what thickness of recoil lug will I need to change it out to? And I know I could/should just go and buy a new rifle in the caliber I want but want a project gun 
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