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12/23/2013 3:24:57 PM EDT
I just brought home a Chiappa Little Badger, but when I removed the thread protector (with lube and a wrench), I found a good 1/3 of the threads rusted out. Now, I can't get the thread protector back on because it looks like the protector's threads are degraded.

I at the very least need a new thread protector from Chiappa, but wondering if I should press them to send me a new barrel as well?

Is there any safe and permanent way I can get the rust off the threads? I am nervous it's going somehow affect the threads of my suppressor, even for the brief minutes or hours it would be on.

Am I better off just trying to have them replace the barrel or even the entire firearm?

I've cleaned surface rust off guns in the past with success, but I can't get in deep enough to remove the rust on the threads.

Can anyone offer advice?
12/23/2013 5:58:32 PM EDT
[#1]
I would ask them to replace the gun. Why should you have to install a new barrl on a brand new gun?
12/23/2013 6:01:49 PM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:
I would ask them to replace the gun. Why should you have to install a new barrl on a brand new gun?
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Never had to mail back any firearms before, but I have heard horror stories.

Afraid if I send the whole thing back I'll be waiting months and months....
12/23/2013 6:55:19 PM EDT
[#3]
Thread file. you can buy one locally.   if it's a 1/2 x 28 i have a die also.
OR if you're unable to locate one pm me, you can BORROW one of mine .if it's a 1/2 x 28 i have a die also. IF you're in the hartford area, i can send it to my nephew, or vice versa.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/79342176?fromRR=Y

OR the cheaters way is to take a nut of same thread, put a cut through the nut on an angle, place on damaged threads and go to town.
12/23/2013 7:24:33 PM EDT
[#4]
after some hours of googling, it looks like this is either loc-tite or glue.

amazing sometimes how easily you can find stuff if you take a step back and think about whatever problem you're trying to solve....

still cant get the glue (or whatever) off though...

so far tried:

* Ballistol & steel wool
* WD-40 & steel wool
* soaking in Hydrogen Peroxide (actually did the best job)

maybe tomorrow, i'll try some Krud Kutter unless anyone knows something better to remove this gunky-junk or whatever it is...

thanks for the help so far.
12/23/2013 7:43:23 PM EDT
[#5]
What problem were you trying to solve by removing it in the first place?
12/23/2013 7:46:20 PM EDT
[#6]
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Quoted:
What problem were you trying to solve by removing it in the first place?
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going to use shoot it suppressed. suppressor won't come in for another 1-3 months so i wanted to inspect them now while i still had the chance.

thread protector was stuck pretty hard and once i got it off i couldnt get it back on. i soaked the thread protector in some glue removal solution and screwed it on and off a couple times and now it works.

the crud seems to have been stripped off in the process.

the bluing on the threads is gone where the "glue" was, but i can live with that.

so long as it's not actually rust.

the only reason i suspected rust in the first place was because i found surface rust on the outside of the barrel... which was easily removed.
12/24/2013 5:40:26 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote History
Quoted:
after some hours of googling, it looks like this is either loc-tite or glue.

amazing sometimes how easily you can find stuff if you take a step back and think about whatever problem you're trying to solve....

still cant get the glue (or whatever) off though...

so far tried:

* Ballistol & steel wool
* WD-40 & steel wool
* soaking in Hydrogen Peroxide (actually did the best job)

maybe tomorrow, i'll try some Krud Kutter unless anyone knows something better to remove this gunky-junk or whatever it is...

thanks for the help so far.
View Quote



you're over engineering the issue. Put the thread protector back on. leave it alone. Once the loctite is disturbed the only issue is an easy rethread.
12/24/2013 5:54:30 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Quoted:



you're over engineering the issue. Put the thread protector back on. leave it alone. Once the loctite is disturbed the only issue is an easy rethread.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
after some hours of googling, it looks like this is either loc-tite or glue.

amazing sometimes how easily you can find stuff if you take a step back and think about whatever problem you're trying to solve....

still cant get the glue (or whatever) off though...

so far tried:

* Ballistol & steel wool
* WD-40 & steel wool
* soaking in Hydrogen Peroxide (actually did the best job)

maybe tomorrow, i'll try some Krud Kutter unless anyone knows something better to remove this gunky-junk or whatever it is...

thanks for the help so far.



you're over engineering the issue. Put the thread protector back on. leave it alone. Once the loctite is disturbed the only issue is an easy rethread.


Well, I certainly dont agree with that.   Do NOT use a die to clean up those threads.  The die will tweak the threads and you will lose concentricity and get baffle strikes.  

Since a suppressor costs more than the rifle, youll need to make sure the threads are cleaned properly.   Soak them in brake parts cleaner several times and wipe off whatever you can with a moist rag.   Then, get a small wire wheel for your Dremel tool.   Like this...

http://www.toolbarn.com/dremel-428.html


Then, gently take the brush to the remaining Loctite.  Stop often and spray the remaining material with brake parts cleaner and wipe it down.

As for the thread protector, you can do the same to it, but soaking it with BPC and gently threading it on and off of the muzzle a few times will help alot.  

However, under no circumstances should you ever clean concentric threads with a tap or die by hand.
12/25/2013 6:17:56 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:


Well, I certainly dont agree with that.   Do NOT use a die to clean up those threads. The die will tweak the threads and you will lose concentricity and get baffle strikes.  

Since a suppressor costs more than the rifle, youll need to make sure the threads are cleaned properly.   Soak them in brake parts cleaner several times and wipe off whatever you can with a moist rag.   Then, get a small wire wheel for your Dremel tool.   Like this...

http://www.toolbarn.com/dremel-428.html


Then, gently take the brush to the remaining Loctite.  Stop often and spray the remaining material with brake parts cleaner and wipe it down.

As for the thread protector, you can do the same to it, but soaking it with BPC and gently threading it on and off of the muzzle a few times will help alot.  

However, under no circumstances should you ever clean concentric threads with a tap or die by hand.
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Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
after some hours of googling, it looks like this is either loc-tite or glue.

amazing sometimes how easily you can find stuff if you take a step back and think about whatever problem you're trying to solve....

still cant get the glue (or whatever) off though...

so far tried:

* Ballistol & steel wool
* WD-40 & steel wool
* soaking in Hydrogen Peroxide (actually did the best job)

maybe tomorrow, i'll try some Krud Kutter unless anyone knows something better to remove this gunky-junk or whatever it is...

thanks for the help so far.



you're over engineering the issue. Put the thread protector back on. leave it alone. Once the loctite is disturbed the only issue is an easy rethread.


Well, I certainly dont agree with that.   Do NOT use a die to clean up those threads. The die will tweak the threads and you will lose concentricity and get baffle strikes.  

Since a suppressor costs more than the rifle, youll need to make sure the threads are cleaned properly.   Soak them in brake parts cleaner several times and wipe off whatever you can with a moist rag.   Then, get a small wire wheel for your Dremel tool.   Like this...

http://www.toolbarn.com/dremel-428.html


Then, gently take the brush to the remaining Loctite.  Stop often and spray the remaining material with brake parts cleaner and wipe it down.

As for the thread protector, you can do the same to it, but soaking it with BPC and gently threading it on and off of the muzzle a few times will help alot.  

However, under no circumstances should you ever clean concentric threads with a tap or die by hand.


If you have a split die like this you're GTG. I also mentioned a thread chaser. Which everyone should have in their tool / armorer collection. Along with good wire wheels.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/taps-dies/dies/ar-15-m16-flash-suppressor-die-prod41592.aspx
12/25/2013 6:38:29 AM EDT
[#10]
If you apply some heat it will break down the thread locker and then either a wire wheel or a thread cleaner/chaser tool will remove what is left rather easily.
12/25/2013 9:31:41 AM EDT
[#11]
If you need to brush crud out of any fine and/or critical threads, use a fine brass wire wheel, not one with steel bristles which are very hard and will damage threads.
12/26/2013 1:19:04 PM EDT
[#12]
Spoke w/ Chiappa Support today and they suggested it was Loc-Tite and to use a blowtorch to remove it.

They'll be sending me a new thread protector. sweet.

Stopped by the hardware store and picked up some Krud Kutter and a brass brush. Came right off.

Thanks for the help all and hopefully this thread will help others that find their Chiappa w/ the same issue.
12/26/2013 1:38:57 PM EDT
[#13]
On a similar note, are all of those threaded?
12/26/2013 2:25:10 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
On a similar note, are all of those threaded?
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Yep. Far as I know.

Fun little piece for $150. Got mine at Bud's.
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