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1/17/2008 4:57:19 AM EDT
Would I be better off bead blasting and then applying the duracoat or stripping off the bluing and then applying it?.
1/17/2008 5:37:22 AM EDT
[#1]
Bead blasting.

The secret to Duracoat is surface cleanliness.

If you take the time to properly prepare it, it will never come off.
1/17/2008 6:51:51 PM EDT
[#2]
Unless, of course, you try and Duracoat a .44 Mag cylinder...  
1/18/2008 5:27:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Umm no. I have a clean Marlin 336 RC with a reciever that has begun to get light pitting and it has a few good sctraches on the barrel and feed tube. The stock is solid but a little worse for wear. I feel its a good foundation to make a "Field Trapper" . Cut and crown the barrel back to 16.5, add a mossey oak stock set, some decent sights possibly a rail set up with optics and I thought I'd have a neat brush gun or at ready tracker. I am thinking on doing the duracoat in a dark mossey green or medium gray. I got the gun from a neighbor who's husband passed away.

Not a Yost Bonitz,,,but it won't cost me $995.00 plus my gun either.
1/22/2008 5:12:02 PM EDT
[#4]
You have to clean it of every thing on it!!! but once you do and shoot it with duracoat it's great!! did one gun in camo AND NO REGREGS!!
1/22/2008 5:25:15 PM EDT
[#5]
media blast, not bead blast. the media has sharp edges that the duracoat grips to. the bead blast is  smooth, no traction for the duracoat.
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