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Posted: 6/11/2005 9:29:46 PM EDT
[#1]
Don't feel hurt. Me and my friends paint our sight posts on our SKS/Nagants/Mausers with day glow orange. if it works it is good! 
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/11/2005 10:08:21 PM EDT
[#2]
+1, That's the best tip yet. |
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MO, USA
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Posted: 6/11/2005 10:24:34 PM EDT
[#3]
I cut the threaded end cap off of a center lock-up post from an AAC VG covered it with thin inner tube - it holds 2 'N' batteries perfectly and I lash it thru the upper vents slots in my SIR #50 SC BL with a fat hair tie!!
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 2:23:51 AM EDT
[#4]
tag
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Posted: 6/12/2005 2:32:37 AM EDT
[#5]
You can't..........ah, nevermind. Welcome to the board  WIZZO |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 3:08:08 AM EDT
[#6]
Thanks WIZZO
I am still trying to sort out how things work here.  20 |
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OR, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 4:14:55 AM EDT
[#7]
Amen to that one!
IIRC, isn’t this just about what the real tool ($35?) is like. It’s a great idea and the thought never even crossed my mind… go figure.
I like this one too. And for my .02 worth… When painting, tie a piece of string around a washer, then feed the string down the barrel from the breech to the muzzle. You now have a string to hang you rifle from that doesn’t touch anything else and has your rifle very accessible to paint.  When going shooting, haul your ammo cans out in a plastic milk/water crate. Once you get there you can use the crate to stack your arfs in a nice orderly fashion.  Color the stamping on your magazine floor plate. Not that any of us shoot with people who are looking to take our things home with them, but this keeps everybody straight on who’s mags are who’s. You and all your shooting buddies have a different color. My color happens to be blue.  Not that I have ever seen an arf with cosmoline, but if you do need to de-cosmoline a weapon, wipe as much off as possible using paper towels then take it down to the local self-serve car wash and use the engine degreaser and high pressure wash to finish it all off. One little note, make you clean well right after you get it back home to prevent rust. One other thing I do for the parts of the bolt group if I have a loooong time to clean something. I’ll disassemble everything and leave it all in a small-wide mouth bottle of Hoppe’s for… a month. When you come back to it, everything wipes off clean as a whistle. ZERO carbon. I have a little piece of PVC pipe with a glued on end cap that I do the same with for the carrier. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 4:28:04 AM EDT
[#8]
Thats pretty sweet, I had to check it out, of course you were right. 
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 4:31:09 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Dace]
[#9]
I will be using both those tips tomorrow, thanks a lot. Especially the paint one, I was trying to figure out where to hang my gun for refinishing. |
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Posted: 6/12/2005 4:59:42 AM EDT
[#10]
Next time start them with a really big punch, something akin to 1/4" OD Cutting slots into a free float allows the heat to dissipate. a .308 case cleans the back of the bolt grind your bolt catch roll pin punch so it clears the hump on the mag well for removal of the roll pin a dab of grease will hold lots of parts (like the ball bearings on the A2 rear or the pivot pin detent) in place electronics cleaner leaves no residue (lots of brake cleaners do) and doesn't harm plastic,makes an excellent prep for painting you can squeeze the roll pin of the A1 rear sight into place with a pair of smooth jawed pliers. get it started by pushing it into place using the pliers you can mushroom the sling swivel rivet with a BB and a vise grease the detent groove in the selector before installing it take a broken punch and cut a notch in the end it, use it to compress the elevation spring on the A2 rear sight while you're driving in the roll pin buy a 1/16" STARTER punch |
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USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 9:13:58 AM EDT
[Last Edit: QUIB]
[#11]
When custom fitting KAC rail covers, don’t throw away those end scrap pieces. If you use rails that have holes along the length (YHM) you can reuse the scraps by drilling a hole in them to accept a screw. The rail cover can then be mounted by inserting an automotive threaded rubber insert (Lowes or Home Depot) at your desired rail position, sliding the cover on, and securing with the screw.
  Some weight and bulk can be removed from a CCH BUIS by cutting down the mounting bolt and adding a suitable nut to the bolt. This nut happens to be an “AN Spec” aircraft nut. (IM me if your interested in more info on this BUIS)  If you have the BM catalog in .pdf down loaded, a laminated copy of the AR15 exploded view makes a nice addition to your spare parts bin.  |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 10:23:20 AM EDT
[#12]
Tagged...
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Posted: 6/12/2005 1:31:14 PM EDT
[#13]
Thanks for the awesome tip. I'm always trying to find odd size small springs for all kinds of firearms. GPK...out
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OR, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 1:32:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Willamette]
[#14]
Three tips for locating small parts that hit the floor, such as detents, springs, pins, etc.
For hard floors set an illuminated flashlight onto the floor to shine its beam across the surface. Try to reduce the room lighting and look for cast shadows from the part(s). You may need to move the flashlight at different compass points around the floor to get the best shadow from the part. For hard floors or carpetted floors, use a vacuum with a new bag or cleaned out filter, vacuum the area of the lost part, then open the vacuum bag or canister to locate the part. If the part is magnetic, then using a fridge magnet or tool magnet may aid in speeding up the recovery. This would also work with a broom for hard floors by sweeping everything into a pile, then performing the search within the pile. This one is a little difficult to recommend, but I have had good success with it, especially with carpetted floors. If you dropped a part, saw it's initial path when it fell, but were unable to see where it landed and looked all over the place for it but could not find it, then use an exact spare part or similar sized and shaped part to duplicate its fall. You will be better able to watch the trajectory of the second part and quite often the part will rest close to where the original part came to rest. If this fails, you can always resort to the first two tips. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 1:36:19 PM EDT
[#15]
With this method, I guess once the pile of parts gets big enough you can't overlook it! 
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OR, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 1:42:30 PM EDT
[#16]
LOL, very true! God bless gravity! |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 2:26:44 PM EDT
[#17]
Use the spring from the mini BIC. It's a little shorter and the tension is perfect. Just used this one recently when I bent the hell out of the original spring. The full size spring was hard to pack the whole spring in so found an old mini and it was perfect. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 4:24:37 PM EDT
[#18]
That's right- it makes it easier to change the pattern depending on the evironment. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/12/2005 5:31:51 PM EDT
[#19]
An ordinary carpenter's nail set is my "universal AR-15 tool".
Pop out takedown and pivot pins, adjust sights, release trigger guard, push out firing pin retainer, and more. |
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Posted: 6/12/2005 9:56:28 PM EDT
[#20]
Never cook bacon in the nude.
(because "tag" is so overused) |
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Posted: 6/13/2005 8:45:44 AM EDT
[#21]
One more to add to these Handy tips... If you drop a part on the "Floor" but can't for the life of you find it. Check in your shoe and in the tread I have mare than once found e-clips and what not stuck in my tread after 20 Min plus of searching. GPK...out Ps. a light dress sock or your wifes/gfs nylon over the wand of your vacume saves the time of changing the bag/filter.
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WY, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2005 10:13:57 AM EDT
[#22]
For people like me who seem to lose things right in front of them, the magnet bowl is good, and so is a good strong magnet set close to where you are working, sometimes it will catch the little parts as they skid across the bench, and they are good for trolling he floor for lost springs and pins.
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Posted: 6/13/2005 12:44:59 PM EDT
[#23]
When you're building a lower and need to drive the bolt catch pin, a cheap transfer punch like one found in this set can save your receiver. Transfer punches have a conical point on the face that will keep the punch centered on the roll pin, plus it's long enough that your hammer will be safely away from the receiver when you drive the pin. It makes installation a snap.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2005 1:06:57 PM EDT
[#24]
Remember - that's PARACORD, not PRIMACORD! |
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Posted: 6/13/2005 1:47:28 PM EDT
[#25]
Every year my insurance agent sends me small calendars with a magnetic sheet backing. I put these under whatever I'm working on to catch any loose falling parts, instead of them bouncing off the workbench. The great thing is every year my magnetic "mat" gets bigger and bigger!
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Posted: 6/13/2005 2:06:26 PM EDT
[#26]
Not true! I refinished my M16 with high temp engine paint, and it looks beautiful, and has been exceptionally good against wear. I think the biggest problem is people don't prep correctly; I degreased everything, heated the lower to about 200 degrees and then sprayed a couple of thin coats of paint on. Back in the oven at 450 for about 3 hours and the enamel is tough as nails. Lemme see if I can find a pic of the stuff I used. Here it is; Damn fine stuff if you apply it the right way.  |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/13/2005 3:21:15 PM EDT
[#27]
Gunbert, do you have a pic of your rifle that you painted?
thanks |
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Posted: 6/13/2005 5:36:15 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Gunbert]
[#28]
I didn't paint this whole gun, I only painted the lower reciever; the original SGW/Oly finish was very worn and shiny. It wasn't bad, just not matte black like the rest of the gun. The color match to regular hard annodized and coated black isn't perfect, but you can't tell unless you're looking for it. Most people think I had it professionally refinished. This is the best pic I have of the lower now, I might be able to find one of how it looked before.  Edited to add; the photo server for this site sucks donkey balls. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/13/2005 5:53:01 PM EDT
[#29]
thank God. I thought you painted it Chebby orange.
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Posted: 6/13/2005 6:42:41 PM EDT
[#30]
Tagola........This is good stuff!
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/14/2005 1:07:57 AM EDT
[#31]
The High temp paint will probably work to paint the the barrel, I mean It IS HIGH TEMPERATURE PAINT. Somebody else try it first  .
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Posted: 6/14/2005 1:26:47 AM EDT
[#32]
I painted my gas block wiht teh high temp paint after I hacked the sight off, and after getting the barrel hot enough to melt my sling, it's still black.
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Posted: 6/14/2005 1:56:40 AM EDT
[#33]
I also painted my 10.5" upper with the same paint, and it looks great, no noticeable wear, even on the vortex flash hider. If the paint won't flake off a vortex on a short barrel, it should be ok for most applications. 
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/14/2005 11:44:24 PM EDT
[#34]
OH MY TAGGAGE
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Posted: 6/17/2005 1:11:49 PM EDT
[#35]
This might not work for all of you like it has for me, but it really only cost a few bucks-
I had a spare A2 FS and I used our surveying Blaze Orange Marking Paint to give it a nice bright glow. I walk into the bank with that A2 installed and then when I'm inside, I swap back to the original. This accomplishes two things- the people who see me first and call the police think I'm just some dumbass with a toy gun- they see the orange tip and the police recognize that as a toy. Once I get inside, I swap so that those people know I mean business. They will trip the alarms and the police ought to say "hmm... We already got a call about that bank. The dumbass teller must not know the difference. Let the old security guard take care of that airsoft kid..." It works better for me because Steve at ADCO ensures he picks A2s that will line up without needing peel washers or crush washers. I can swap my FS out instantly and have it timed perfectly in seconds!!!! I keep a little pack of paintballs with me so i can smash those over my arms and chest. Everyone outisde will think I was inside playing paintball and am running away with the "loot" |
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Posted: 6/17/2005 1:38:36 PM EDT
[#36]
Flat black Alumahyde II is great for front sight posts and rear apertures for a durable finish that keeps them dark & non-glare. Practice with it first, a thin layer is all it takes and only adds .001" thickness to the surface. Be patient and let it cure for a full week so that the Alumahyde can get nice and hard so you don't muck it up.
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USA
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Posted: 6/17/2005 1:49:11 PM EDT
[#37]
Along the same lines.......when we would go to the range to qualify we would darken up our sights by turning up the flame on a BIC lighter and holding it under our sights. A burning plastic MRE spoon would provide the same effect, and both are removable when needed. |
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Posted: 6/17/2005 1:52:14 PM EDT
[#38]
tag
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Posted: 6/17/2005 5:57:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Nifty, I had heard of using soot, etc. I tried a bunch of things like that myself. I wanted something more permanent because I hate having to touch up sights all the time. With this I do them once and forget about it. Maybe next time I'll try something else like one of those fancy GunKote, Duracoat, etc. coatings. I just used this because I had it on hand, it works great and never had a need to change. |
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Posted: 6/17/2005 9:07:26 PM EDT
[#40]
...it's all good.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 6/22/2005 5:41:26 PM EDT
[#41]
This is my no-cost tip for all of you with a rattling collapsible stock mainly the M-4 nylon type
( not alum ) ! Take the stock off the tube and put it in a vise with a rag around it to keep from marring it up . Squeese it side to side in the vise but don't go crazy , while it is in the vise take a hair dryer and blow through the stock heating it up , do both ends , this only takes about 1min all together , then ck it for fit on the tube , repeat if nessesary to get desired fit . You then have a stock that fits nice and tight with no rattling ! |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2005 12:57:03 AM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 7/21/2005 1:52:06 AM EDT
[#43]
Tag.
I saw the using a pair of pliers to squeeze in the mag catch pin instead of a punch and it makes all the difference in the world. This should be standard proceedure for installing that pin. Actually I install the trigger guard roll pin the same way. quick squeeze and it's in with no riisk of marring the receiver. |
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Posted: 7/21/2005 4:20:32 AM EDT
[#44]
bolt catch?
 pliers also work for the windage roll pin on the A1 sights |
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Posted: 7/21/2005 7:12:28 PM EDT
[#45]
Plastic ties to take off and put on the Tango Down VG
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Posted: 7/21/2005 7:52:00 PM EDT
[#46]
tag.
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MT, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2005 8:15:10 PM EDT
[#47]
the ink catridges on the inside of Pilot G-2 pens are the same diameter as the front take down pins. They make a great detent tool.
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USA
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Posted: 7/21/2005 8:17:27 PM EDT
[#48]
IDIOT |
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OK, USA
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Posted: 7/21/2005 9:31:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Eclipsester]
[#49]
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Posted: 7/21/2005 9:52:44 PM EDT
[#50]
Wow, that reminds me of the days back in my teen years we used to fuck everything up with wrist rockets.
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