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2/27/2003 6:55:05 PM EDT
I have a rather odd duck on my hands.  It's an Ithica LSA-55 in .222 rem.  I've had it for over 20 years, it was my first centerfire rifle.  It's been in storage for quite a while with several other rifles I don't use.  I took her out today and gave her a good inspection/cleaning/oiling.  From the outside the gun looks almost brand new.  The barrel is a differant story.  The bore has a slight yellowish color to it.  Is that what is refered to as a dark bore??  The rifling looks very sharp and there are no signs of rust or pitting.  What is the soloution??  Can I get it back into shape?  Any help greatly appreciated!!  Thanks.
2/28/2003 2:16:42 AM EDT
[#1]
I would suggest using JB bore paste with Butch's Bore Shine as a rinse.
2/28/2003 3:36:49 AM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the advice.  I just checked Brownells and they have both in stock.  I'll try my local shop today before I order.  As you can see I'm new to the board.  I'm trying to get a couple of old hunting rifles that I don't use in shape and sold in order to buy my first AR-15.  I may do a build up.  My local shop has a couple of complete bushy lowers for $300 with either A2 or post-ban car stock.    
2/28/2003 7:56:06 AM EDT
[#3]
Often times, a "dark bore" is on an old surplus rifle and is due to firing corrosive ammo and not cleaning the rifle. The corrosive elements settle between the rifling and darken it up by corroding it. (Not the case here.)
2/28/2003 10:01:37 AM EDT
[#4]
First check the light you looked in the bore with - if it is an incadescent light tending toward yellow, that will cause a bore to look this way, however -

Copper buildup will also cause the bore to look yellow, and high speed .22 calibers are prone to collecting copper in the bore.  In larger calibers, say .30, it is very easy to see copper buildup and exactly where it is located, but I have a devil of a time seeing it in .22's.  Before attacking it with JB, clean it with Butch's Bore Shine to dig the carbon and most of the copper out, then attack with Sweet's copper remover.  You may have to clean the bore 4 or 5 times to get it truly clean.  

When you use JB, the patch will turn black - this is normal, and if you switch to a new patch with a new charge of JB it will keep coming out black forever.  I prefer to flush with Hoppe's, just because Butch's has too much ammonia to use in the final pass - this is mostly just my preference, deep down I don't believe that using Butch's only will hurt the bore.  

Note that cleaning with JB should probably only be done every 200 to 300 rounds or so, and that some barrels cleaned to the bare steel this way will shoot as if they need to be broken in again - so just go through a break-in process.

There is a new JB Bore Bright product that has a finer grit for putting a finish polish in the bore.
2/28/2003 6:39:09 PM EDT
[#5]
I had some real good luck cleaning some surplus rifle bores (when I had time) with the Outer's Foul Out II.  Clean the bore well with solvent, run a patch with rubbing alcohol (to remove any residual oils) down the bore, plug the breech, pour the Cop-Out solution down the bore, run the electrode in the barrel for several hours, pour out the old solution, Repeat the entire process several times.  

Last time, I pour bore cleaner down the bore after plugging the chamber with a cork, and let it sit overnight.  Then clean normally, and it makes for a nice, shiny bore.
AFARR
3/1/2003 6:21:02 AM EDT
[#6]

Quoted:
First check the light you looked in the bore with - if it is an incadescent light tending toward yellow, that will cause a bore to look this way, however -

Copper buildup will also cause the bore to look yellow, and high speed .22 calibers are prone to collecting copper in the bore.  In larger calibers, say .30, it is very easy to see copper buildup and exactly where it is located, but I have a devil of a time seeing it in .22's.  Before attacking it with JB, clean it with Butch's Bore Shine to dig the carbon and most of the copper out, then attack with Sweet's copper remover.  You may have to clean the bore 4 or 5 times to get it truly clean.  

When you use JB, the patch will turn black - this is normal, and if you switch to a new patch with a new charge of JB it will keep coming out black forever.  I prefer to flush with Hoppe's, just because Butch's has too much ammonia to use in the final pass - this is mostly just my preference, deep down I don't believe that using Butch's only will hurt the bore.  

Note that cleaning with JB should probably only be done every 200 to 300 rounds or so, and that some barrels cleaned to the bare steel this way will shoot as if they need to be broken in again - so just go through a break-in process.

There is a new JB Bore Bright product that has a finer grit for putting a finish polish in the bore.



Excellent post.

You procedure seems a bit more refined and less abusive to barrels.
3/2/2003 1:32:22 PM EDT
[#7]
I just cleaned a friends Rem 760 barrel for him that hadn't been cleaned in years. It was in terrible condition. I plugged the barrel and stood it upright, then filled it up w/Hoppe's Copper Solvent and let it sit overnight. When I poured it out it was blue from all the fouling. I then coated it with some fresh Hoppes and ran a boresnake through it several times. Then some standard patches until the blue color disappeared. I then put a light coating of CLP in it. The barrel looks brand new inside.
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