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Posted: 1/7/2015 5:20:56 PM EDT
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So i wound up with RIA 1911 in a trade, that the previous owner had polished off the parkerizing on the sides of the frame and slide.
I'm trying to decide which Brownells product I should use to refinish it. I was thinking about using AlumaHyde2 but I don't really want to wait 2+ weeks for it to cure. Does anyone having any experience with Gun-Kote Oven Cure, Teflon/Moly Oven Cure, Aersol Baking Laquer, or the Aerosol Duracote? Im looking for something easy to use (i may be able to have a local machine shop blast it with alum oxide), that is durable and wont flake/peel off easily, and provides good corrosion protection as I can rust guns if I stare at them long enough. Here are a few that i'm looking at....if you have any suggestions i'm all ears, just nothing that requires a airbrush or specialty equipment Alumahyde Gun Kote Teflon/Moly Baking Laquer |
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Quoted:
So i wound up with RIA 1911 in a trade, that the previous owner had polished off the parkerizing on the sides of the frame and slide. I'm trying to decide which Brownells product I should use to refinish it. I was thinking about using AlumaHyde2 but I don't really want to wait 2+ weeks for it to cure. Does anyone having any experience with Gun-Kote Oven Cure, Teflon/Moly Oven Cure, Aersol Baking Laquer, or the Aerosol Duracote? Im looking for something easy to use (i may be able to have a local machine shop blast it with alum oxide), that is durable and wont flake/peel off easily, and provides good corrosion protection as I can rust guns if I stare at them long enough. Here are a few that i'm looking at....if you have any suggestions i'm all ears, just nothing that requires a airbrush or specialty equipment Alumahyde Gun Kote Teflon/Moly Baking Laquer The AlumaHyde curing process can be speeded-up considerably by baking the painted item in low heat. The details are on Brownell's site. I would definitely bead-blast the items, in order to promote good adhesion. Mask off surfaces that must remain smooth, and dunk in serious degreaser to clean the surfaces to be painted. Fresh Parkerizing, thoroughly de-greased, is an almost perfect surface on which to apply AL, or many other suitable coatings, as it gives the paint something into which it can actually penetrate a little. Very durable. Since all these things are coatings, now would be a good time to consider rounding off all suitable sharp edges on the pistol, since these coatings will show wear first on sharp edges/corners. I believe this is called "melting", and can add to user comfort while carrying concealed. Do this prior to bead blasting. If using ALII, make SURE to buy some extra nozzles for the spray cans. Heat up the paint can(s) in a warm water bath, and shake the can a LOT. |
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Gunkote is a great product and I've used it a few times with great success. When re assembling an ar15 lower I slipped with a hammer and punch and scraped right along the side of the lower. Did absolutely nothing to the finish. Also unless you are ordering other stuff from brownells its a little cheaper to order directly from the manufacturer of Gunkote , kg industries.
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Quoted:
Gunkote is a great product and I've used it a few times with great success. When re assembling an ar15 lower I slipped with a hammer and punch and scraped right along the side of the lower. Did absolutely nothing to the finish. Also unless you are ordering other stuff from brownells its a little cheaper to order directly from the manufacturer of Gunkote , kg industries. I checked out their website but I don't see the aerosol product, do you have to call or am I overlooking? |
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AH2 is great. In addition to the extra nozzles, thorough degreasing, HOT water bath for the can, and shaking
the bejesus out of the can before and during the job, I'd recommend preheating the part as best you can as well. I generally put the can of AH2 in some steaming water for a few minutes and hit the part with a heat gun while the AH2 is warming up. As far as the curing goes, listen to what the other guys are saying as I've always just waited a couple weeks to assemble/reassemble with the refinished parts... |
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